It’s hard not to like Château Lagrange, a huge estate with a correspondingly large production. The wine is reliably good and sold at a very reasonable price for a third growth Saint Julien. With some 118 hectares of vines, Lagrange is over 33% larger than an entire Burgundian appellation such as Gevrey Chambertin! It is the biggest of all the classified growths. The sizeable production includes a second wine, Les Fiefs de Lagrange, as well as a white wine, Les Arums.
I’ve never had a great bottle of Lagrange but, then again, I’ve never had a bad one. You basically get what you pay for. The estate has belonged to the Suntory group since 1983 (Suntory also own half of Château Beychevelle).
The nineteenth château is set amidst beautifully landscaped grounds. Immediate neighbors include châteaux Belgrave, Camensac, and Gruaud Larose. I attended a gala dinner at Lagrange when the Japanese had finished their renovation of the château and cellars and wished to welcome the Bordeaux wine trade. No expense had been spared at this event which featured fabulous wines, including Mouton Rothschild for over 200 people.
Anyway, I always have some Château Lagrange in the cellar and decided it was time I checked into the progress of the 2006 vintage, one that is often given short shrift.
At age 18, 2006 Lagrange was starting to show a little bricking. The nose was deep and subtle, but not broad. It featured very Médocain overtones of graphite, blackcurrant, cedar, and forest floor, as well as violet, untanned leather, and truffle nuances. On the whole, the bouquet was superior to the palate.
The latter features good acidity and loads of Cabernet Sauvignon varietal character, but the tannin is somewhat coarse and the aftertaste is rather dry and unresolved. Oddly enough, an impression of alcohol comes through, although the degree stated on the label is only 13%. I do not think that more cellaring is the answer to evening this wine out. It will always be enjoyable, but with tannins lacking in finesse.