This post will be as much about tourism and cuisine as it is about wine because these three things are inseparable to me when it comes to Madeira.
I went there with my family at the tail end of December 2018. In fact, this trip to one of the world’s great wine regions had been on my bucket list for quite some time. Fortunately, I was not disappointed with the experience: the island, the people, and the wines.
The first thing to keep in mind is that Madeira is a long way from anywhere – almost 1,000 km from Lisbon and 600 km off the Moroccan coast. The island (in fact, one big island and three little ones) is a popular tourist destination, with about a million visitors a year. Although many of them come on cruise ships, the overall impression I had was of relatively up-market tourism involving people who go out of their way to discover a unique 750 km² sub-tropical paradise. In fact, Madeira is nicknamed the “island of eternal spring” because the weather is never too hot, nor too cold.
We stayed in the capital city, Funchal, population 110,000.
The first evening, we went to a restaurant named “Beef and Wine”, where we ordered the house speciality, espetada. This is usually chunks of beef but, in this case, it was actually a variation, picanah, top sirlon rubbed in garlic and salt, and grilled on skewers. The waiters come around as many times as you wish with their skewers, like the Brazilian churrascaria. The meat was served with a variety of vegetables. I took advantage of the extensive wine list to try a local red table wine, 2013 Xavelha, made from a blend of Portuguese and international grapes. This proved to be a good middle-of-the road effort. I later learned that table wines are quite rare, accounting for just 5% of production. We ended the meal with two glasses of ten-year-old Madeira, a Sercial and a Verdelho from Barbeito. I had heard very good things about this producer, but unfortunately was unable to visit because the firm was closed over the Christmas season. Be that as it may, the two wines we tried were delicious, in a more modern style.
Traditional breadmaking
bolo do caco
We also enjoyed the unusual Madeiran bread, bolo do caco, usually served with garlic butter.
Rubina Vieira
The next morning, I was taken in hand by the IVBAM, or Instituto do Vinho, do Bordado e do Artesanato da Madeira, IP-RAM. I was greeted by Rubina Vieira, who does a wonderful job of presenting a wine that most people have heard of, but few know much about… Rubina started off by putting the wine in a historic context – its more than 500 years of ups and downs, as well as its current market status. A famous story goes that the Duke of Clarence, brother of King Edward IV of England, when sentenced to death for treason in 1478, chose to meet his creator by drowning in a butt of Malmsey. Indeed, Duke of Clarence is the name of a wine sold by Blandy’s, one of the largest producers of Madeira! In Shakespeare’s “Henry IV”, Falstaff sells his soul to the devil “for a cup of Madeira”. Later on, Madeira found great favor in Europe and especially the United States, where the Founding Fathers used it to toast the signing of the Declaration of Independence. Exports were greatly helped by Madeira’s strategic geographical location, a stopover point on trans-Atlantic voyages. It was soon discovered that the wine benefitted from being stored in the warm holds of ships, and so a practice developed of imitating this effect on the island. This is achieved in two ways. The most common is the estufagem method, consisting of placing the wine in stainless steel vats that are heated with a serpentine or other kind of heating system to a maximum temperature of 50°C for a minimum of three months. The wine is then left to age and cannot be bottled before the 31st of October of the second year following the harvest. The more sophisticated canteiro method calls for maturing in barrels on the top floors of cellars, where the temperature is higher, for a minimum of two years. This leads to slow oxidative ageing accounting for unique, complex aromas. Canteiro wines must age for at least three years and can only be sold after a minimum of three years starting from the 1st of January of the year following the harvest.Madeira has an alcohol content of 17-22% by volume and is fortified with wine spirit of at least 96% (compared to Port’s 77%).
Much Madeira is marketed according to style (dry, medium-dry, medium-sweet, and sweet) but the finest usually carry a varietal name:
Sercial is nearly dry (≤ 59 g/l), but seems dry because of the wine’s intrinsic acidity
Medium-dry Verdelho has its fermentation halted a little earlier than Sercial, and residual sugar content varies from 54-78 g/l
Bual, classified as medium-sweet, has a sugar content of 78-100 g/l
Malmsey is quite sweet, with ≥ 100 g/l of sugar
The most widely-planted variety in Madeira is Tinta Negra, accounting for 85% of production, although the name rarely appears on a label. There has been a tendency to consider Tinta Negra a “workhorse” grape rather than one of the finer varieties, but a 1929 Tinta Negra I tasted showed that to be an unfair generalization. And then there is the rare Terrantez, which produces a medium-dry or medium sweet wine of excellent quality that is making somewhat of a comeback.
Rubina was kind enough to take me through a tutored tasting of the following wines:
CAF Cooperative Agrícola do Funchal five year old (blend)
Barbeito “Rainwater”, medium dry
Henriques & Henriques 10 year old Sercial
Borges 10 year old Verdelho
Barbeito 10 year old Bual
Justino’s 10 year old Malvasia (same as Malmsey)
Henriques & Henriques 20 year old medium dry Terrantez
1973 Madeira Wine Company Verdelho
1964 Justino’s Bual
1937 Pereira Oliveira Sercial
1929 sweet Pereira Oliveira Tinta Negra
This master class was utterly fascinating, and the older wines were gorgeous.The style called “Rainwater” is very popular in the US. It is lighter and similar in sweetness to Verdelho, but usually made with Tinta Negra. Explanations of the origin of the name and how the style developed vary.
There was a time not so long ago when extremely old Madeira could be bought for a song – in fact, for ridiculously low prices, making it one of the wine world’s greatest bargains. Those days may be over, but fine Madeira remains well worth seeking out.
The wine law was recently overhauled, and the broad categories are now as follows:·
Reserve (five years) – This is the minimum amount of ageing for a wine labelled with one of the premium varieties.
Special Reserve (10 years) – At this point, the wines are often aged naturally without any artificial heat source
Extra Reserve (over 15 years) – This style is richer and relatively rare, with many producers preferring to extend the ageing to 20 years for a vintage, or produce a colheita.
Colheita – This style includes wines from a single vintage, but aged for a shorter period than true vintage Madeira. The wine can be labeled with a vintage date, but includes the word colheita on it. Colheita must be a minimum of five years old before being bottled. However, most producers drop the word Colheita once a wine is a minimum of 20 years old, at which point it can be sold as vintage.
Frasqueira (“vintage”) – This style must be aged at least 20 years in cask and one year in bottle. However, the word “vintage” cannot appear on labels because it is a trademark belonging to the Port producers.
In France, Madeira suffers from an unusual handicap in that it is an ingredient in numerous classic sauces. Like many households and restaurants, I always have an open bottle to use in cooking. However, this overshadows the wine’s qualities in its own right… That having been said, Rubina pointed out what I had heard elsewhere: while Port and Sherry, the other great European fortified wines, are losing ground, exports of Madeira are on the rise.
The sugar content of Madeira, including dry Sercial, is actually quite high. This is because the wines feature such high acidity that sweetness is necessary to provide proper balance.
The IVBAM was kind enough to take me on a tour of the wine country, guided by Lionel Vieira, the Institute’s viticultural consultant. This was utterly fascinating and something I could never have done on my own.Rubina stressed that Madeira is by definition a rare wine. The entire vineyard covers just 500 hectares (compared with 650 hectares in Pomerol, practically the smallest of Bordeaux’s 57 appellations). These are scattered around the island in one of seven microclimates and divided among some 2,000 grape growers. The soil is basically the same everywhere: basalt of volcanic origin, which accounts for the high acidity. The island is very mountainous and so the vines frequently grow on terraces located on steep slopes. The grapes are mostly trained according to the latada system, i.e. making use of a pergola 1.5 to 2 meters high. This provides good ventilation and reduces the risk of rot or mold. In times past, vegetables were grown underneath, but this practice is disappearing. I also saw something in Madeira that was quite esoteric: vines trained horizontally, i.e. with the canes spread out on the ground, with no trunk. The key here is to work the soil so as to keep the ground well-aerated and totally devoid of other vegetation.
There are just 8 producers of Madeira. The largest, by far, is Justino´s Madeira Wines Company. The most well-known is the Madeira wine company, owners of such brands as Blandy’s, Cossart Gordon, Leacock’s, and Miles. The historic Blandy’s Wine Lodge, on Funchal’s main street, located practically next door to the Tourist Information Office, is a major attraction. I went on a tour there, which was well done. Unfortunately, tasting more than two entry level wines entailed a charge for each wine, so I contended myself with buying a bottle of Terrantez because this is so difficult to find.
The only other producer I visited was Pereira D’Oliveira. This traditional firm, also in Funchal, is famous for their old wines. Oliveira’s is not geared up to receiving foreign wine enthusiasts. The several young hostesses were not really clued-in and communication in English was not easy. It took some convincing to taste anything other than the basic blends. Their attitude changed completely when I was finally given a rare and expensive wine to taste, and bought a bottle. Evidently, I was not a freeloader, so other wines were poured and a few souvenir items were added free of charge…
In terms of dining, allow me to go through the restaurants we frequented. Lionel from the IVBAM invited me to the restaurant at the Four Views hotel in Funchal. This included poached egg soup and the emblematic black scabbard fish with bananas and passion fruit sauce. We had another Madeiran table wine with this, 2016 Barbusano Verdelho, perhaps a bit too tart for me. Lunch the next day was at a seafront restaurant, O Regional, that provided excellent value for money as we ate outside on a warm December afternoon.
That same evening we dined at Chris’s Place, on a par with a one-star Michelin restaurant. The three of us ordered the tasting menu with wines to match and the bill came to 100 euros, representing great value for money. In addition, we enjoyed lunch one day at Cachalote in Porto Moniz on the northern side of the island, which I also recommend. I sampled a dish there revolving around limpets that went well with a white Douro wine.
The highlight of our trip was nevertheless the New Year’s Eve gala dinner at the Belmond Reid’s Palace hotel in Funchal, an establishment normally out of my price range, but one of those luxurious things one does from time to time… The food was exquisite, as was the setting, and we had a window seat with a gorgeous view over the city and the harbour.
This mattered, because the fireworks display on the 31st of December in Funchal is world famous. There was a blaze of color all over the town and on the water. Spellbindingly beautiful.
Although Madeira is a major tourist destination, I had the impression that wine is very much of a footnote in regional promotion, which is a pity. That having been said, wine tourism is slowly, but surely taking off. Furthermore, Rubina travels all over the world to present the wines and suggest how to enjoy them with food (frequently a question mark with sweet wines). One of the unusual characteristics of Madeira is that it does not budge once the bottle is open. I was repeatedly told that you can go back a year later and it will not have suffered from contact with oxygen.
The challenge for Madeira is to close the gap between a famous name and the realities of today’s market so as to shake off a 19th century image and turn young people on to one of the world’s great wines. I get the feeling that thanks to the intrinsic quality of fine Madeira and people like Rubina to spread the good word, a renaissance is in the making.
A final anecdote: I attended a service at the Anglican church in Funchal and was delighted to see that along with the traditional tea and coffee after the service, worshipers were also given the option of a glass of Rainwater Madeira. Needless to say, that is what I chose… I found this mighty civilized and think that churches in other winegrowing regions – such as Bordeaux – would do well to offer the same!
How many of you have ever tasted a wine from the Côtes de Francs?
Hmmm. I didn’t think so…
Francs Côtes de Bordeaux (as it is now called) is the smallest appellation in Bordeaux, with approximately 400 hectares of vines. This Right Bank region is located near the Dordogne River and the border with the Dordogne department, a half hour by car from Libourne and twenty minutes from Saint Emilion.
It would be an exaggeration to call Francs (fewer than 200 people) a one-horse town. I doubt there is even a cat there… However, they do have a castle whose oldest section dates back to the 6th century. The family of the famous enologist Michel Rolland lived here, at Château Ad Francos, for two centuries and his team currently oversees winemaking there.
Ad Francos has about 8 hectares of vines (average age 30 years) on clay-limestone soil producing roughly 30,000 bottles of wine a year. The property, entirely restored in the early part of this century, was acquired by Guillaume Brochard and his wife, Qiong Er Jiang, in 2017. Monsieur Brochard lives most of the year in Shanghai, where he had a successful jewellery business that he sold to Kering (Pinault) in 2013. He also acquired three other wine firms having both a négociant activity and/or their own vineyards: La Guyennoise, GRM, and Le Star.
Château Ad Francos is definitely off the beaten track, both geographically and vinously. Relying not only on the wine’s quality, but also its rarity, Monsieur Brochard has intelligently decided to position it in the premium category, with prices to match.
I tasted through the range in July.
The 2019 and 2020 white wines, AOC Francs Côtes de Bordeaux, were both light, aromatic and mineral without too much oak. The 2015 red Ad Francos was a wine of character needing further ageing and would make a fine match with flavorsome food such as stews or game. The 2016 vintage was also quite tannic with well-integrated oak and a promising future. The 2012 barrel-fermented Reserve, (full name: Réserve Ad Aeternam) at age 11, still showed some oak as well as sweet cherry overtones on the nose, along with hints of spice, pepper, and earth on the palate.
It should be said that Ad Francos has one of the most unusual labels in Bordeaux, reproducing an old engraving of the château and the facsimile of a passage from the 1898 edition of Bordeaux et Ses Vins (Féret).
Château le Grand Verdus is a well-reputed centuries-old estate located in Sadirac, equidistant from Bordeaux and Libourne. This large vineyard (120 hectares) produces wines sold under the Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur appellations. The château makes a range of wines including an unsulfured red, an orange-type Sémillon, and a small quantity (for Bordeaux, i.e. 6,000 bottles) of a varietal Cabernet Franc.
The latter caught my eye because it is fairly rare to see a Bordeaux made from this grape variety alone
The salesperson in a shop where I bought the wine explained that it was easy-going and to drink young (he said, c’est très glou-glou). Seeing as we are in the middle of a heat wave (40° C yesterday), I thought that suited me just fine. In view of the grape variety, I was expecting a wine similar to a quaffable light red Loire made from the same grape.
But this was not the case. The wine had a very dark color, which was the first difference compared to a Chinon or Saumur Champigny. The nose showed some attractive cherry and even kirsch notes, but was not very pronounced. However, the comparison with the Loire really fell apart on the palate because this was unmistakably Bordeaux, full-bodied with tons more tannin and considerable grip – definitely a wine to enjoy with food rather than casual sipping. There was also a ferrous quality. Served cool, the 14° alcohol was nevertheless obvious. The brother of a red Loire this was not. More like a first cousin once removed.
Would I have guessed this was a Cabernet Franc if served blind? Probably not because I did not find the grassy quality and light body I associate with that variety. Still, it was a fun experience at a reasonable price.
The Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux organizes a Weekend des Grands Crus every year in the city of Bordeaux as well as in the wine country. This is open to the general public and is a great way not only to taste 2 vintages of world-famous wines (one shared by all producers and another of their choice), but also to meet the château owners or their representatives.
d’Armailhacq N: Toasty oak with cherry/vanilla overtones. P: Altogether more expressive on the palate. This is a big, strong, assertive, and virile Pauillac, but elegance and balance are there as well. Confirms the estate’s recent improvement. Fresh, with great fruit, a long aftertaste dominated by blackcurrant, and black olive overtones on the tail end. Already very attractive and will make for fine mid-term drinking. Good to very good.
Beychevelle N: Discrete subtle bouquet with blackberry and throat lozenge aromas. Elegant. P: Seems a bit thin at first, but this is a mistaken impression. Great quintessentially Médoc cassis flavors. Lively and buoyant. Not a big wine, but one with a fine backbone, as well as a refreshing and classic aftertaste. Very good.
Branaire Ducru N: Dark chocolate and blackstrap molasses. Subtle wildberry nose, but without much depth at this stage. P: Starts out round and rich, but then shows surprising acidity for an unusual balance. Brambly. Good textured aftertaste with some leather nuances. Good to very good.
Grand Puy Ducasse N: Roast coffee in spades! This overshadows the fruit. The nose is also a little green. P: A big mouthful of wine. Chunky then acidic. Relatively unbalanced. Dry finish with some bitterness. I keep hoping this château will do better. OK
Gruaud Larose N: Surprisingly little oak. Fine berry fuit, fresh and, above all, understated. Needs time to open. P: Far more expressive on the palate. Fresh, assertive Médoc fruit. Bright, with good length, albeit a bit dry and oaky at present. In the classic mold. A great reflection of its terroir. Good to very good.
Haut Batailley N: Soft, but reveals disappointingly little at this time. P: Better on the palate. Rich, with a licorice flavor. Although not very impressive on the attack, the wine unfolds into a textbook Pauillac with a very good long brambly finish. Good.
Lagrange N: A little confected, with candied red fruit aromas. Not much there really, and one-dimensional. P: Comes off better on the palate, but this is not one of the best Saint Juliens tasted. A little harsh and acidic. This acidity will help it to age, of course, but the wine ought to be smoother and richer. There’s nothing wrong here, just nothing special. OK
Langoa Barton N: Very natural and unadulterated with far less oak than others. Understated. Not very forthcoming as yet, but with some notes of black cherry liqueur. P: Thirst quenching. Pure, satisfying, and well-made, but curiously short. Well-made, just not outstanding in the context.. Good
Léoville Barton N: Very low profile. Bit dumb, but what’s there is promising. Ethereal and intriguing. Touch of mint and camphor. P: Tight, resonant, pure, and with a long velvety aftertaste. Not rich, but will age beautifully. The fruit has been magnificently locked-in. Very good, and one of the stars of this tasting.
Léoville Poyferré N: Fruit forward, fresh, very Cabernet nose. Some coffee/vanilla notes, but not overoaked. More black than red fruit. P: Good acidity and raspberry flavor. Long tangy finish. Neither rich, alcoholic, nor top-heavy. Bit old-fashioned. Classic. The oak comes through more on the finish. Very good.
Lynch Bages N: In accordance with the château profile. Soft, pure, blackcurrant and black cherry aromas. Clean and precise. P: Not a big wine, and the element of purity on the nose comes through on the palate. Good acidity reminiscent of a less-than-stellar year. Unusually, cedar more than oak flavors on the finish. Quintessence of cassis. Good grip, but a little short on the aftertaste. A feminine Lynch Bages? Good to very good.
Pichon Baron N: Sweet and concentrated, but not at all in a New World sort of way. Typical Pauillac bouquet featuring some cedar/cigar box aromas. P: Lovely full-bodied mouthful of wine. Big, with a great velvety aftertaste showing just a little heat. Really tremendously long and fresh, with heaps of blackcurrant and a mineral finish. Very good plus, perhaps my favorite wine of the tasting.
Pichon Comtesse N: Meaty, with hints of maraschino cherry, and underdeveloped at this stage. P: This vintage is strongly marked by Cabernet Sauvignon. Fine structure and a long velvety uncompromising aftertaste. Made to age for many years. Very good.
Saint Pierre N: Candied red fruit nose along with lovely evanescent black cherry. Seductive. P: Open, upfront, and uncomplicated, in a popular commercial sort of ways. Bit hollow and halfway towards a modern style. Good value for money. Good.
Talbot N: Very toasty oak! Wildberry and forest fruit nose. Needs time and oxygenation to come out, which is why young wines in newly-opened bottles can sometimes give a misleading impression. P: Big, chunky, and typical of its appellation. Long, slightly harsh aftertaste. Uncompromising. Fresh, but lacks softness and richness. Little weak on the middle palate. A strong, characterful Saint Julien. The long aftertaste redeems a relatively lacklustre wine. This is long with some black olive nuances. Good.
Beauregard N: Muted at this time, but what there is is very encouraging. P: Big mouthful. Sleek and unctuous. Very Pomerol, but lacks a little oomph. Rubbery tannin. Good plus.
Bellegrave N: Sweet, plummy, bordering on confected. P: Very unctuous, upfront, a Dolly Parton of a wine. Rather flabby and top-heavy. An anomaly in the appellation. So strong and rich that it will call for strongly flavoured food. Good.
Bourgneuf N: Rather unexpressive at this time, but showing blueberry jam aromas. P: Blueberry aromatics on the palate as well. Paradox between freshness and some alcoholic heat. Big mouthful of wine almost New World in style. Really rich. OK
Le Caillou N: Plummy and somewhat spirit, but a little dumb at this time. P: Chunky mouth feel with fine archetypal Pomerol tannin going into some hardness, followed by a surprising about-face to become soft again. Good.
Certan de May N: Licorice and berry aromas. P: Very soft and caressing mouth feel leading into velvety tannin. Lacking a little acidity, but the quality of the tannin is what’s important here. Some chocolate overtones. Already melts in the mouth. Seems too oaky now, but give it time. Good plus.
Le Chemin N: Berry blossoms and ripe black fruit. P: Very representative of its appellation. Starts out rich, then dips, then returns with good quality tannin as well as licorice and floral components on the tail end. Good.
La Clémence N: Sweet, but not very forthcoming. P: Starts out quite round, but then goes into strong acidity. Does not seem balanced at this stage, but can obviously be transformed with age in barrel and in bottle. Only 600 cases are produced a year. Owned by the Dauriac family of cru classé Destieux in Saint-Emilion. OK
Clinet N: Tasted alongside L’Ecuyer, this seemed even more typical of fine Pomerol. Empyreumatic Merlot overtones with a hint of menthol and some very refined and welcome spirity aromas. P: Compact with great acidity. Blueberry flavors spread out beautifully on the palate. Sensual, but classy tannin. Less modern in style than some previous vintages and quite delicious. Very good.
La Commanderie N: Closed at this time, but there are some intriguing dark chocolate nuances. P: More akin to a Lalande than a Pomerol and definitely light for this vintage. Marked acidity, but this buttresses the long textured aftertaste which features rubbery notes that redeems the wine as a whole. Good.
Certan de May N: Wonderful nose of licorice and forest fruit. P: Very soft mouthfeel leading to velvety tannin. Seems at first to lack acidity, but tannin steps in to give definition and structure. Dark chocolate nuances and the wine melts in the mouth at this early stage. Very good.
La Conseillante N: Creamy, both from the oak and the terroir, with some raspberry aromas. P: This creaminess comes through on the palate as well. Soft and caressing, with super round tannin. The flavour progresses seamlessly step by step into a saline and mineral aftertaste. Very good.
L’Ecuyer N: Subtle and inky with a touch of menthol. P: Fresh and vibrant with fine velvety tannic texture. Violet and chalky nuances, along with an impression of tar and incense. A little dry and oaky, but give it time. This estate had just been acquired by Ronan Laborde of Château Clinet. Good plus.
Eglise Clinet N: Very empyreumatic with good fruit to match. P: Toasty oak with a good tight structure. Tight and resonant, with tertiary notes just emerging. Slightly spirity. Velvety tannin. Uncompromisingly Pomerol that needs plenty of time. Some black olive nuances on the aftertaste. Very good.
Evangile N : Shy, but promising. G: Chunky and tightly wound, with goods structure and soft tannin. A wine of character that will undoubtedly show even better as time goes on. Good plus.
Feytit Clinet N: Toasty oak, but rather too much of it. However there are perfumed red and black fruit notes in the background. P: Very round, but also a little dilute and hollow. Needs retasting at a later date. Prior experiences with this wine lead me to believe it will show much better later on. OK
La Fleur N: Closed and reduced at tasting. P: Some gas in a wine that was clearly not in an ideal place to be appraised. This wine, one of the finest in Bordeaux, illustrates how difficult and risky barrel tastings can be. Normally exquisite, it was simply not showing well. But I’m willing to bet it will be sublime down the road if its track record is anything to go by. Not rated.
La Fleur Pétrus N: Very delicate with elegant truffle notes so sought-after in the best wines of Pomerol. P: Big and spreads out wonderfully on the palate. Seems slightly dilute at first, but the aftertaste gives an added dimension to the wine. There’s a sensual texture to the tannin here and it coats the palate deliciously. Good plus.
Hosanna N: Pure and upfront with rich berry and brambly aromas. P: Dense and concentrated. Quite soft with lots of finesse, but also a great deal of character. Broader and slightly more hollow than La Fleur Pétrus. A virile wine. Good plus.
Lafleur Gazin N: Sweet and simple. P: That “sweetness” is reflected on the palate as well. Displays its charms brazenly, but these disappear into a short aftertaste. Reminds me more of the better wines of Lalande more than a Pomerol. Good.
Lagrange N: Subtle black cherry aromas with iron filing nuances. P: Round and compact, backed up by good oak. The only flaw is the short aftertaste. However, a fine representative of the Pomerol appellation, i.e. very typical. Some empyreumatic (burnt rubber) flavors. Good plus.
Mazeyres N: Bramble bush, with deep fruity aromas. P: Heavy mouth feel with a vanilla/almond flavor often found in Pomerols. Vinous, but lacks finesse. Will be enjoyable young. Good.
Le Moulin N: Good oak overlaying discreet black fruit. P: A flashy wine that is rich, but somewhat topheavy. A little green and hot at this time. OK
Petit Village N: Soft bouquet reminiscent of cherry cough drops and black fruit. P: Quintessentially Pomerol. Some anise. Just a little weak on the middle palate, but showing good acidity and uplift into a fine finish. Seems slightly dilute up until that fairly assertive aftertaste. Good plus.
Pétrus N: Very subtle bouquet with violet nuances and some mint. P: Simply wonderful texture. Creamy, chalky, and balsamic with plush tannin and an aftertaste that does not let up. My notes say “so goddam soft”. However, that does not preclude a monumental structure. Will take decades to reach its apogee. Not unduly wowed by price or reputation, I honestly found this to be the top wine of all I tasted from the 2022 vintage. Superlative.
Le Pin N: Sophisticated bouquet with hints of both fresh berry fruit and dried fruit. P: A tour de force achieving a tremendous balance between a sensual, melts-in-your-mouth texture and a superb structure. A tad austere, but a majestic Pomerol. Very good.
Plince N: Vanilla, almond, inky, fine, and delicate. P: Rich, swish, and silky with surprising acidity on the finish, which is nevertheless rather short and with oak that is too prevalent at this stage. A touch of bitterness on the finish. The palate does not quite live up to the promise of the bouquet. Good.
Renaissance N: Fine soft Pomerol nose with violet overtones. Penetrating without being aggressive. Some alcohol discernible. P: Big mouthful of wine 1,000% Merlot. Spherical. Huge, then dies down by degrees. Tasted just after Vieux Château Certain, this suffered from the comparison, but it is a very good wine. Good plus.
Séraphine N: soft bouquet with hints of talcum power and flower petals. G: Rich mouthful with sweet fruit into a fresh zingy finish. Lip-smackingly good. Very good
Tailhaus N: Some violet, but also some lingering fermentation aromas. P: On the delicate side. This estate is on the outskirts of Libourne. Tasty, with a cool ethereal aftertaste. Good plus.
Trotanoy N: Markedly floral with engaging deep fruit P: Sinewy with a marvellous velvety texture and a lovely long aftertaste. Weighty with excellent ageing potential. Tightly wound. The opposite of an easy-going fat Pomerol. Very good.
La Truffe N: Despite the name, there are no truffle notes on the bouquet, which is simple and attractive. P: Rich, typical Pomerol with a delicate flavor profile. Excellent follow-through. Deserves to be better-known. Delicious. By the way, this wine does not have, nor has it ever had, truffle aromatics. The etymology of the place name is lost in the mists of time. Very good.
Valois N: Fresh, engaging, deep. P: Very rich with strong violet overtones. A wine for Merlot lovers. That violet flavor goes on and on! A little obvious, but attractive. Good.
Vieux Château Certan N: Inky, soft, and deep with violet overtones. P: A marvelous texture with great acidity to match. Raspberry flavor and suave tannin that coats the mouth. The aftertaste is pure magic and there is some minerality among the plushness. Very good.
Vray Croix de Gay N: Rich with interesting facets of berry fruit just coming to the fore. P: Sweet and round with vanilla/almond flavors. Good follow-through and length. A serious wine. Good plus. This estate was just acquired by the owners of Calon Ségur in the Médoc.
Angélus N: Spirity, soft, burgeoning. P: Dynamic, rich, broad-based and strong with assertive black fuit flavors. More toned down and understated than other recent vintages, and better for that. Good plus.
Ausone N: Tight, mysterious, revealing little at this time. P: Fresh, exceedingly well-structured with wonderful balance, and an aftertaste that fits in perfectly with the whole. Superb texture and length. Velvety rather than silky. Black fruit and bramble bush. Very good.
Badette N: Very sweet-smelling nose of blackberry liqueur. P: Big and round, going on to show its power. Alcohol makes itself felt on the finish. Brawny and lacks elegance. For people who like strong sensations. OK.
Balestard La Tonnelle N: Inky black fruit aromas along with licorice and nice floral notes. P: Rich, chewy, and more enjoyable than sister château Cap de Mourlin. Good balance and satisfying candied fruit flavors. Lovely development on the palate. Long aftertaste in which the fruit overrides everything else. Touch raisiny. Good plus.
Beauséjour Duffau-Lagarosse N: Sweet and primary, with some intriguing rose nuances. P: Plush, fills out beautifully on the palate going on to show a good tannic backbone. Subtle mint and eucalyptus. Fine balance between richness and minerality. Candied black fruit flavors and a certain salinity on the finish. Very good.
Bélair Monange N: Fine subtle nose with violet overtones along with toasty oak that is under control. P: A rather old-fashioned style, but a prime and beautiful example of wine from the Côtes de Saint Emilion. Wonderful ageing potential. Starts out quite round and luscious on the palate, then displays great concentration, ending in a super aftertaste with classy tannin. Very good.
Bellefont Belcier N: Underdeveloped at this time with vague red fruit aromas along with nuances of coffee, vanilla, and caramel. P: Better on the palate with lively acidity, rich blueberry fruit. Starts out quite fluid, then rich, then reveals mouth-coating tannin. Powerful tannic aftertaste, uncompromising. Seems slightly unbalanced at this time but may age well. Good.
Berliquet N: Pure red and black fruit. Seems almost more redolent of fresh grape juice than wine. P: Tremendously round with medium-heavy mouth feel. Not overoaked. Rich and very attractive. Unquestionably seductive. Good plus.
Cadet Bon N: Sweet and concentrated black fruit (blackberry) aromas. P: Round and big. Both flabby and tannic with some alcoholic heat and dryness on the palate. OK.
Canon N: Serious, monumental bouquet. Very sweet and very classy. Exotic and sensual. P: Rich, unctuous, and pure. Great follow-through into a long textured aftertaste. Spherical than pivots beautifully into minerality. Fine long finish. Very good.
Canon La Gaffelière N: Berry bush blossoms, iris, and violet. Elegant beguiling bouquet. P: Puckery and fresh with lots of oak. Penetrating with the stamp of limestone terroir, but lacks richness, body, and softness. Considerable ageing potential leaves room for improvement in a wine that is already good. Good.
Cap de Mourlin N: Soft and primary with aromas of freshly-picked grapes. P: Somewhat angular and acidic compared to other wines of the vintage. At the very least, this will help the wine to age well. On the whole, in the middle range compared to its peers. Good.
Chatelet N: Sweet blueberry and pronounced candied fruit aromas. Little oak. P: Rich, spreads out well on the palate. A big wine that carries itself well. Quite full-bodied and round, but with the inimitable minerality of the Saint Emilion plateau. Calls for food that can stand up to it. Mouthfilling. Deserves to be better-known. Good plus.
Cheval Blanc N: Subtle wildflower nose, but not well-defined at this time. P: Suave, big, and juicy, with ripe Cabernet Franc coming through particularly in this vintage. Fresh and the seeming simplicity at first blossoms on the palate to reveal superb authoritative tannin. Such a successful vintage that no second wine (Petit Cheval) was made. Very good.
Clos Badon N: Understated, sweet, and simple with some chocolate notes and unobtrusive oak. P: Starts out with attractive roundness. Refreshing with a good follow-through. Medium weight on the palate. Well-balanced and good length for this new grand cru classé belonging to Thunevin. Good plus.
Clos Dubreuil N: Not very expressive, but shows overtones of toasty oak and brambly fruit along with white flower aromas. P: Plush, melts in the mouth, going into a tannic and slightly dry aftertaste. Marvelous texture. Generous. Very fruity and juicy with a mineral aftertaste. Good plus.
Clos Fourtet N: Primary aromas of ripe red fruit. P: Compact and resonant with good acidity. With good acidity. Classic Saint Emilion with a a long cool aftertaste with the unmistakable stamp of the limestone plateau on the finish, which is long and velvety. Very good.
Clos Saint Julien N: Refined berry nose. Quite a complex, fresh, classy bouquet with well-integrated oak. P: Melts in the mouth then goes into teeth-coating acidity. Will surely age beautifully. Seems almost Pomerol-like but the limestone finish shows its Saint Emilion roots. Quite tannic. A sleeper and fine wine a tiny vineyard. Good plus
Clos Saint Martin N: Wafting nuancs of berry fruit and violet. A soft subtle bouquet for connoisseurs because you need to look for it to find it. P: Beautiful taste profile. Plush mouth feel that caresses the palate, then goes into the traditional minerality of the limestone plateau. Simply wonderful. Smallest cru classé in Saint Emilion. Very good
La Confession N: Very engaging fresh berry aromas with some dark chocolate overtones. P: Fine tannic texture coupled with vibrant, but not sharp acidity. On the light side for a 2022 Saint Emilion, but elegant with very excellent tannin. A little dry on the aftertaste now, but that could very well disappear over time. Good plus.
Corbin N: Sweet, perfumed, and delicate with violet, rose, and some fermentation aromas, P: Medium-body. Svelte and poised with a touch of tar on the fine floral aftertaste. Ageworthy. The best Corbin I’ve had thanks to its finesse rather than its power. Good plus to very good
Corbin Michotte N: Touch of reduction at this early age and slightly spirit. P: Pure and brambly with great fresh acidity to provide freshness and ageing potential. Interesting long aftertaste underpinned by that great acidty. Good.
Côte de Baleau N: Very enticing, with violet nuances P: Round with a fairly heavy mouthfeel going into tough tannin. This is a pity because there is much that is good about this wine that falls down only due to a lack of elegance. Good.
La Couspaude N: Bursting with fruit. Rich sweet cranberry aromas with little interference from oak. Fine bouquet already. P: Big mouthfeel, but seems hollow after this first impression, and goes on to reveal noticeable alcohol and a dry finish. This wine will always be somewhat top-heavy, but it’s a decent big Saint Emilion nevertheless. Good.
Couvent des Jacobins N: Ripe Merlot in all its glory. Fresh and forward, almost seems as if it just came from a tank. Touch of mint and a little oak influence. P: It is funny how the floral component comes through so much more on the palate than on the nose. This is a natural unmodern traditional sort of wine that is 100% Saint Emilion. Starts out sensually with a sort of “sweetness” ending in a long lingering finish. Bravo! Good plus.
Croix de Labrie N: Sweet, pure, chalky. High quality. P: Chewy, chunky wonderful soft tannin with menthol freshness. Mid-weight body and nice decidedly mineral aftertaste that is nevertheless stops a little short. Appetizing. Good plus
La Croizille N: Pure deep fruit. P: Melts in the mouth then goes into searing acidity and tannin. Medium body and an impression of freshness that leads into a dry oaky finish. OK
Dassault N: Sweet red fruit, black cherry, good oak, and a touch of anise. P: Sensual opening with sheets of soft fruit going into unmistakable Saint Emilion minerality on the finish. Less body and perhaps less ageing potential than others at the tasting, but a fine wine best enjoyed on the young side. Good plus
Destieux N: Bit spirity, but suave. P: Round into a tight structure with noticeable oak, but not too much. Flavor of black fruit jelly and very appetizing. Concentrated with a medium-long finish. OK
La Dominique N: Subtle, ethereal blackberry aromas. P: Voluptuous. Melts in the mouth and transitions seamlessly into a fine long aftertaste. Best La Dominique I’ve ever had and a wonderful reflection of its terroir.. There’s a floral component, as well as great tannic texture. Very good
Faugères N: Closed for business on this day. Obviously needs time to come out. P: Medium-heavy mouth feel along with sweet bright fruit. A commercial style, but also serious. Very long velvety aftertaste. Good plus.
De Ferrand N: More indeterminate than anything else, with some celery aromas. P: Curiously light and then a certain harshness sets in. OK
Figeac N: Rich fruity bouquet with marked violet overtones. P: Lovely mouthfilling first impression going into the type of reserve bordering on austerity displayed by the finest wines of Bordeaux. Perfect illustration of an iron fist in a velvet glove. A saline impression on the finish shows how appetizing this great wine is. It can surely vie with Cheval Blanc. Very good.
Fleur Cardinale N: Hard to know if the bouquet smells more or red or black fruit. P: Lovely juicy development on the palate. Soft from beginning to end with cherry flavors. A little weak on the middle palate, but tremendously seductive. Medium long aftertaste for this wine with plenty of character. Good
Fleur Morange N: Low intensity dark fruit. P: Pomerol-like with good acidity inside an unctuous framework. Sexy an luscious, but with the tannin and substance to back it up. Fine-grained tannin. Good plus.
Fonplégade N: Clean, irreproachable, but not very distinctive. Berry and blossom aromas typical of the best wines of the vintage. P: Big mouthfeel that shifts into uncompromising minerality typical of the terroir. Very round up until the aftertaste this aftertaste of limestone terroir. Slightly hollow even so. Will age well thanks to its structure and marked acidity. Good.
Fonroque N: Pure, with subtle blackcurrant and candied red and black fruit aromas. P: Some gas in this sample, which was nevertheless a good solid example of Saint Emilion without any special distinguishing characteristics. Good.
Franc Mayne N: Deep intense nose of briar and black cherry jam. Sweet, but not obvious. Great nose. P: Not quite as good on the palate. Something a bit weak and diluted until the aftertaste, which is slightly rough with some greenness. Minerality in spades. New label this year for an estate that changed hands in 2018. Good.
La Gaffelière N: Plummy with violet nuances. P: Big mouthful i.e. heavy mouthfeel, then dips a bit on the middle palate, but comes back with a fruity, gummy flavor and a sweet, pure, and very mineral aftertaste. Worthy of retaining its Premier Cru status? Good winemaking and high-quality fresh aftertaste would suggest so. Good plus.
Grand Corbin N: Pure and discreet with candied red fruit. P: Tight with good development on the palate. Dense and fresh, with fine tannin and candied black fruit. Excellent finish. Good plus.
Grand Mayne N: Beeswax and floral notes with underlying blackcurrant. P: Brawny, chunky, with good fruit and textured tannin. Not as big and clumsy as some previous vintages. Strong and characterful though, and there’s the acidity to provide balance. A meaty virile kind of Saint Emilion. Long assertive aftertaste. Good to good plus.
Haut Sarpe N: Fresh, but unforthcoming. Subtle berry fruit, but too closed at this time. P: Vibrant raspberry Cabernet Franc aromas. Excellent and refreshing balance with a tangy finish. Chunky in a good way but neither top-heavy nor overly alcoholic. Rubbery tannin and the sort of wine that is good either young or old. Good plus.
Lamarzelle N: High-pitched, deep, and subtle with coffee and vanilla nuances. P: Seems very much like a Pomerol to begin with, then the wine’s structure emerges. Seems rather delicate until the aftertaste kicks in. Svelte body with good length and ageing potential although not broad-based or especially assertive. Good.
Laniote N: Biscuity, with some lead overtones. Some reduction at this time. A bit curious, but OK. P: Rich, even flabby to start off with, then rough tannin kicks in. Not altogether balanced, but this is a decent old-fashioned style of Saint Emilion. Grippy tannin on the aftertaste. This will help the wine to age, but will the fruit stay? Good.
Larcis Ducasse N: Rather retiring and hiding its charms for the time being. Some wild flower nuances. P: Forthcoming, with slick smooth tannin. Seems more like a Pomerol than a Saint Emilion. The aftertaste is not very long, but this is an attractive wine to drink young. Immediate neighbour of Pavie. Good.
Larmande N: Good, but unremarkable at this time, which is to say average. P: Soft velvety tannin going into a medium-long round aftertaste full of berry fruit. A crowd-pleasing sort of wine, quite aromatic on the palate with violet nuances. Commercial style. A touch dilute. Will be forthcoming young. Good.
Laroque N: Fresh, pure, berry fruit aromas with some licorice. Concentrated and appealing without oak overreach. P: Very rich with chocolate overtones. Frankly on the heavy side with noticeable alcohol on the finish. Not a bruiser, but a very tannic wine calling for strongly-flavored food. Good.
Laroze N: Plummy, sweet, upfront, and fresh with some depth. P: Fresh, but disjointed with unpleasant acidity and harsh tannin. This only goes to show how young the wines are at the en primeur tastings, and how good wines are not necessarily on their best form. Tannin here seems quite tough. To be fair, this wine needs to be retasted before and after bottling.
Mangot N: Powdery, with refined cherry and fruit juice aromas. Some heat. Not up to the palate at this time. P: Mouthfilling and seemingly sweet. Big and coats the palate. A bit simple, but goes into a pure mineral aftertaste with textured tannin. First vintage of this wine as a classified growth. Good.
Monlabert N: Very roasted nose with coffee, vanilla, and caramel nuances (oak) that overrides the fruit at this stage. P: Better. Plush on the palate with licorice flavors and good follow-through. Interesting balance, but rather short. Good fruit. A nice surprise for this estate newly promoted to cru classé status. Good.
Montlisse N: A little simple and ordinary. Not very expressive. P: Rich and soft on entry, going into an above-average mineral aftertaste. There’s an impression of sweetness from beginning to end and an interesting balance between austere tannin and an easy-going cherry flavor. Marked acidity on the finish Good.
Moulin du Cadet N: Something a little off at this tasting, but the nose is inky, deep, and mysterious. P: Big, but there is sprightly raspberry acidity that makes this more easy-going and “digestible” than some of the other wines at the tasting. The body is there, but not quite enough elegance. Clean limestone finish. Rich and tasty, just a little obvious. Good
Pavie Macquin N: Promising red fruit, blueberry, and refined candied fruit aromas. P: Vinous with great acidity. Big, but restrained. Unexpectedly delicate, with fine-grained tannin and a subtle long aftertaste. Good plus.
Péby Faugères N: Closed, brooding, but one senses that there is much to come. P: Very oaky along with some exotic flavors such as mint. Very enjoyable. Faugères showed better than Péby Faugères on this day, but it could be a different story in ten years. Good plus
Petit Faurie de Soutard N: Fine, sweet, and subtle. Fresh, delicate, and marked by floral aromas (iris). P: Great development on the palate. Fresh once again, with spring water purity and some rose nuances. The floral overtones blend with great berry flavors (forest fruit). Elegant floral finish very reminiscent of crunch fresh fruit. Elegant. This is an estate to watch. Very good
De Pressac N: Not showing a great deal at this time. Some blackberry notes. P: Full-bodied and spreads out on the palate with heaps of black fruit flavors. Great acidity inside a plush shell. Will age well. Coarse velvet texture. A little disjointed at this stage, but one of the best wines I’ve had from this estate. Good plus.
Quinault l’Enclos N: On the simple side, but displaying some promising fruit jam notes. P: A pretty fruit forward wine that permeates the palate. Upfront ant attractive. Good
Sansonnet N: Good oak and enough fruit to back it up. Sweet, elegant, and voluptuous. P: Big masculine style with a perception of alcohol clearly present. Rather overwhelming and the oak is too much at this stage. Disjointed now, but give it time! Good.
La Serre N: A little spirity, somewhat remniscent of cherry liqueur. P: Powerful, but tasty and tangy. Lipsmackingly good. Long assertive aftertaste that is not aggressive. Juicy. Maybe should be a little more reserved, but this is a sensual wine with an fine finish and velvety tannin. Good.
Soutard N: Oak, candied fruit, and general sweetness. P: Seems somewhat hollow, but there is a good tannic backbone. Medium-heavy mouthfeel. Pure and refreshing although a little puckery and hard on the finish. Balance is not ideal, but will improve with age. At this time the oak comes through much too strongly. Good.
La Tour Figeac N: Very attractive understated nose showing ethereal black fruit and some spice. Sweet and stylish. P: Beautifully soft on entry going into medium-bodied roundness and fine-grained tannin. Unfolds seamlessly. Long aftertaste. An unquestionably fine wine, but also a fruity user-friendly. Good plus.
Tour Saint Christophe N: Toasty oak, berry fruit and a sweetness that may come more from oak than fruit. P: Big, chunky, a little hot but the limestone finish adds freshness. Tannin coats the mouth and teeth. Hearty more than refined and rather dry, but this could change with ageing. Good.
Troplong Mondot N: Attractive berry and blossom aromas. Sweet and straightforward. P: Heavy round mouthfeel. A Merlot lovers wine… Fresh, i.e. not top heavy as in some years, but a bit flabby. I acknowledge the quality of this wine, even if it is not a style I especially like. Good.
Valandraud N: Very classy, inky, almost Médoclike. Bright fruit with a touch of greenness along with some winemaking aromas, but very promising. P: The softness at the beginning is misleading because this is a very tannic wine. An iron fist in a velvet glove. Blackberry and chocolate flavors. Long future ahead. Good plus.
Villemaurine N: Cassis and black fruit jam along with some beeswax. P: Full frontal roundness going into waves of acidity, tannin, and oak. A very big wine lacking distinction, but not a monster either. It weighs in more with power than nuance. The textured tannin on the finish is a pleasure, but I’d have like the wine less mammoth and I wonder how it will age. OK
Yon Figeac N: Sweet and engaging, but some fermentation aromas there. Blossom aromas appear with aeration and the nose is altogether very nice. P: Ripe rich wine with heavy mouth feel. The fruity flavors spread out beautifully on the palate going into limestone minerality typical of the Saint Emilion plateau. Slightly old-fashioned style, but very successful. Not exactly heavy or overbearing, but not for the faint-hearted. Good plus.
Bouscaut (red) N: Closed and moderately oaky. P: Long on the palate, but seems massively overoaked at this stage. Plenty of acidity, but not enough fruit and way too much oak. Not a good time to taste this wine, which needs to be re-evaluated later. OK
Carbonnieux (red) N: Seems very young indeed. Fresh fruit aromas and not overoaked. P: Plush on entry going on to reveal polished tannin and acidity. Tangy, refreshing, and delicious. Just a little short. Nevertheless, a fine effort from the château. Good to good plus.
Carmes Haut Brion N: Subtle red fruit aromas along with vanilla and black pepper notes. P: Medium body. Tight, with teeth-coating tannin that are nevertheless of extremely high quality and bode well for long ageing. A lively appetizing wine with some tarry overtones. The texture is absolutely wonderful. Very good.
Domaine de Chevalier (red) N: Impression of ripe Merlot fruit predominates. Moderately expressive red fruit and quite fresh. P: Svelte with marked acidity without softness to back it up. Wine to enjoy for its elegance rather than power or richness. Raspberry flavors. Bit unyielding finish, but there is textured velvety tannin there and this will obviously reward ageing. The label is quite unusual for this vintage, featuring a 1941 watercolor of a galloping horse by Chinese artist Xu Bei Hong. Good plus
Fieuzal (red) N: Pure blackberry jelly aromas and subtle oak. Not profound, but certainly engaging. P: Starts out round then progresses into a long aftertaste. Raspberry and redcurrant flavors with lively acidity. Fine-grained tannin on the finish. Good plus.
de France (red) N: Brambly as always, and soft. Aromatics of earth and forest floor. P: Moderately fruity, short aftertaste with slight impression of alcohol. Overoaked at this point, but time will tell… OK
Haut Bailly N: Spicy, fresh, pine resin aromas. P: Sinewy and svelte with a positive sort of bitterness on the aftertaste which nevertheless drops off somewhat. Too oaky at present, but has the structure to integrate that over time. Narrow flavor profile, with some licorice, but excellent within that framework. Good plus
Haut Brion (red) N: Fine beeswax and lovely scent of fruit hiding its light under a bushel at present. P: Chewy texture. Quite round, then assertive with new oak, significant acidity, and an uncompromising quality that provides decades of ageing potential. There’s a positive sort of greenness to go along with the ripe fruit. The tanginess at the onset is very appetizing, and this is complemented by tremendous length. Just shy of 15° alc./vol. but altogether extremely elegant. Times have certainly changed in Bordeaux! Very good.
Larrivet Haut Brion (red) N: Fine fresh raspberry bouquet. Brambly and smoky Pessac-Léognan nuances. Understated and classic. P: Tight with vibrant acidity. Made to last. A different style to the others and one I quite like. Not so commercial, but encourages ageing. Medium-light in body and succeeds in focusing acidity and fruit at the same time. Cool fresh aftertaste. Good to good plus
Latour Martillac (red) N: Aromas of caramel, oak, and black fruit. Fairly suave, but lacks personality at this stage. Some toasty oak. P: Natural fruit flavors, especially raspberry, with a very positive kind of marked acidity. Light on its feet. A little short, but refreshing. Will age well, but this is not one of the appellation’s frontrunners. Good
La Louvière (red) N: Sweet and simple with some toasty oak. P: Medium in most ways. Elegant flavor profile with a floral aspect. Short, but balanced and attractive. Should La Louvière be promoted one day to great growth status? In light of today’s tasting i.e. compared to other crus classes, I’d have to say no. Good.
Malartic Lagravière (red) N: Elegant perfumed bouquet redolent of violet, rose, red fruit, and oak. P: Bit sharp and tangy. Poised and feminine in style, as usual, but the sample was not in tip-top condition, showing too much oak and a dry finish at present. Promising, but needs to be retasted. Good.
Mission Haut Brion (red) N: Sweet briary aromas with pipe tobacco nuances. Understated and very promising and already showing signs of complexity. P: Possibly as little diluted on the attack, but zings in with authority revealing wonderful Graves tannin. Medium-weight in body, even tending towards lighter-than-average. The tannin clearly gives the wine structure to last for decades. Fresh, but development on the palate is short of perfect. Long subtle finish. Very good.
Olivier (red) N: Upfront and very ripe. Lovely deep dark berry fruit nuances. G: Soft, easy-drinking wine with red and black fruit flavors echoing the bouquet. Refreshing, but the oak is rather hard at this time. Well made. An estate offering worthwhile value for money. Good.
Pape Clément (red) N: Not very expressive at this time. P: Rich with good acidity and grip. Black fruit and the oak in in keeping for a wine that needs to age for a long time. Delicious aftertaste with an unmistakale slightly leathery/smoky Graves quality. Good plus.
Pique Caillou (red) N: Sweet, natural, penetrating. P: Soft and easy-to-drink with a pleasant aftertaste of red and black fruit. The oak influence seems a little hard-edged at this time. The wine is well-made and good value for money. Good
Smith Haut Lafitte N: Inky violet nuances along with forest fruit. P: Rich and concentrated with marvelous tannin that coats the teeth. Lovely long textured aftertaste with a touch of bitterness. Rises above most other wines in its appellation and at this point seems superior to Haut Bailly. Melts in the mouth and the toasty oak is not overdone. Very good
Angludet N: Some unresolved vinification aromas, but refined Margaux magic there. P: Ripe fruit with an oaky aftertaste. Narrow spectrum of flavours, but good profile and acidity. Finish a little tough and dry at the present time. Good
Brane Cantenac N: Oak overlaying lead aromas P: Round, melts in the mouth. Fresh and natural. Develops well on the palate. Delightfully tangy. Good length. Fine compromise between modern and traditional styles. Very typical of its appellation. Great acidity. Brane is ascendant. Good plus
Cantenac Brown N: Pronounced sweet cherry aromas, along with ripe varietal Cabernet nuances. P: Mouth-watering and poised with fine-grained tannin. Very well-made. This château appears to be coming up in the world thanks to a change in ownership. Good plus
Dauzac N: Ripe cranberry nose with good oak and a classic profile. P: Raspberry with well-integrated oak and medium length. Fine balance with straightforward berry fruit and decent grip. A satisfasctory great growth in a good year, but not in the top tier. Good.
Desmirail N: More floral than fruity at this time. A little green. P: Good sappiness, but that greenness come through on the palate as well, accompanied by brambly fruit. Odd balance. OK
Giscours N: Lovely subtle nose with definite floral overtones along with ripe berry nuances. Not profound at this stage. P: Excellent ripe Cabernet (primary fruit) with refreshing acidity. Relatively long aftertaste and a slightly spirit side. Dependable. Good
Kirwan N: Licorice and spice. Very pure with a musky quality. P: Chewy mouth feel with oak, briar, and cherry flavors. Obviously needs time to become more focused, but there’s an intrinsic lack of balance meaning that this will never be one of the best of Margaux’s ten third growths. OK.
Lascombes N: Rich upfront fruit P: Something a little forced and artificial here, but nothing to actually detract from the wine. Change in ownership here and a new label harking back to the 19th century. We’ll see if this estate will improve in the next few vintages. Good.
Margaux N: Redolent of violet, cedar, and blackcurrant with subtle minty nuances. P: Impregnates the palate without brutalizing it. Wonderfully soft with superb tannin and a decidedly mineral aftertaste. Very good.
Marquis de Terme N: Assertive ripe berry aromas that seem more typical of the Northern Médoc. P: Good body. Fairly big wine. Solid, but lacks refinement. Dry finish that needs age to soften. Good.
Monbrison: N: Soft, perfumed, but muted. Good oak. Delicate and feminine. P: Caresses the palate. Not a big wine but shows all the class of a great Médoc. Such finesse! Melts in the mouth. I’ll be fascinated to see how this develops because from barrel it is ethereal and extremely classy. Good plus to very good
Palmer N: Pronounced wild berry aromas. P: Seems low in acid. Showing candied fruit and dark chocolate flavors. Slightly confected. Hiding its light under a bushel at present, but all the signs of a great wine in the making are there. It’s simply that this was not the ideal time to taste the wine. Nevertheless: Very good
Prieuré Lichine N: Truly lovely berry and berry blossom aromas. Almost Right Bank – or Burgundian – in its voluptuousness P: Spreads out beautifully on the palate. Without being modern in style, and if it were not for the lovely tannins on the aftertaste, I might not have taken this for a Bordeaux. Slick tannin. An estate on the up-and-up. Good plus
Rauzan Gassies N: Fruity, but simple. P: Good tannin reminiscent of tea. Well-constructed, but relatively short. More on a cru bourgeois level than a second growth one. Light on its feet, with good acidity, but lacks gravitas. OK
Rauzan Ségla N: Really very closed but fruit and chocolate notes lurking. P: Rich, mouthfilling, almost too big for a Margaux. Quite delicious and thirst-quenching even so with candied blackcurrant. Soft, pure, and juicy, wears its heart on its sleeve. Good plus.
du Tertre N: Combination of oak and fruit of medium intensity. Not very expressive at this point. P: Seems sharp and monolithic on the palate, without the estate’s customary elegance. The wine’s sappiness and magic overwhelmed for now by the oak. Some black olive notes on the aftertaste. The château was purchased last year by Les Grands Chais de France (the Helfrich family from Alsace) Good
Beychevelle N : Classic Médoc nose reminiscent of blackcurrant cordial. Good oak and shows great potential. P : Dynamic, with great acidity, and avoids any chunkiness. The terroir unquestionably comes through here with a medium-fine velvety texture on the finish. The oak is overly prominent at this stage, but there is clearly the stuffing for this to integrate over time. Altogether, this is a big wine, but one with a great deal of class. Lovely medley of candied fruit on the aftertaste. Good to very good.
Branaire Ducru N : Soft with a touch of cedar with underlying Médoc fruit P : Round, full, fresh Cabernet falvours with an elegant lift. Slightly dilute on the middle palate before going into a good fresh aftertaste of medium length. Somewhat chunky. No flaws here, but nothing special either. Good.
Ducru Beaucaillou N : Dense, subtle bouquet rather closed and a touch musty at this time. P : Much more expressive on the palate. Concentrated black fruit flavors with a flawless development on the palate, i.e. a great follow-through into a wonderful aftertaste. Roundness into a super classic finish. Unquestionably a great vin de garde. Very good.
Gruaud Larose N : Very closed at this time, but with aeration reveals attractive notes of Saint Julien terroir with dark fruit that will surely become more expressive with age. P : Really chunky – but not clunky! Big wine that falters a little on the middle palate, but rallies with a strong, very tannic aftertaste that needs time to soften. Good
Lagrange N : Bright berry fruit with a touch of caramel from the oak. Penetrating and a little spirity. Pure and primary, but promising. P : Great acidity with raspberry flavors. Not especially rich or long, but satisfying with a velvely tannic finish that is just a little short. Good
Léoville Barton N : Textbook nose with slightly cosmetic sweet cassis perfume. Superb bouquet. Just the right amount of oak. P: The austerity of Cabernet Sauvignon, overruled by ripe juicy fruit and a fine structure that somehow avoids rigidity. Long finish with a soft grip. Very good
Léoville Poyferré N : Ripe, deep, and full of promise with licorice nuances. P : Packed with fruit but maintains elegance and balance. Hedonistic, but stays within the framework of classic claret. Wonderful medium-long aftertaste. Superb Cabernet and an example for the New World. Good plus to very good.
Saint Pierre N : Deep, dark, underlying berry aromas that are rather simple at this stage. P : Natural fruit flavors not overshadowed by oak. Fresh acidity and good texture. An elegant rather than a strong wine to enjoy on the young side. Slight menthol overtones on the finish. Good.
Talbot N : Ripe Cabernet nose with a hint of mint and blackcurrant leaves along with some earthy notes and vigorous berry fruit. P : Fleshy, big, very juicy. An archetypal Saint Julien and a joy to lovers of this appellation. Medium-long textured finish. Delicious. Good to very good
PAUILLAC
d’Armailhac N : Fine bouquet redolent of cassis and cherry; P : Excellent fruit, but lacks focus at this stage. Some gas in the sample. Not the best time to taste the wine, but it deserves the benefit of the doubt in light of past track record and intrinsic underlying quality. Good.
Batailley N : Fine nose of blackcurrant and cherry. P : Excellent fruit, but the wine is unfocused at this time and the sample has a bit of gas. Knowing this wine, it definitely deserves the benefit of the doubt. (label in honor of Queen Elizabeth) Good.
Clerc Milon N : Discreet, closed-in, needs time. Some black pepper overtones. P : Forward, attractive, rich, bright, a delicious medley of red fruit. Soft for a Pauillac. Classy and will show well even quite young. Elegant sophisticated aftertaste. Good plus.
Croizet Bages N : Toasty oak and caramel, with muted red fruit. P : Much more expressive on the palate, with forest fruit, good body, and attractive follow-through. Solid performance for this wine that has often been criticized in the past. Good.
Duhart Milon N : Precise and well-defined, but closed. Underlying cassis and berry aromas. P : Medium body with some hardness to show that this is a serious wine, belying the initial impression of one that is too fluid and easy-going. Svelte, with velvety tannin on the classy finish. That having been said, this is too much on the slim side. OK.
Grand Puy Ducasse N : Pencil lead overtones with some subdued spice aromas. Really too closed to evaluate properly at this time. P : Narrow spectrum of flavors and with a simple linear development on the palate. Refreshing, but lacks richness and breadth. Pales in comparison with others. Slight weediness. OK
Grand Puy Lacoste N : Sweet, open, and fresh bouquet along with good oak and ethereal blackcurrant aromas. P : Faithful to château profile. Very unctuous, but not overly so. Tangy and appetizing. Great fruit and polished tannin on the long finish. Good plus
Haut Batailley N : Tad herbaceous, but also some dark chocolate and discreet black fruit. P : Sinewy and lively with loads of fruit. Should develop very well with age. Great aftertaste as well. Spreads out beautifully on the palate with blackcurrant, blackberry, and other black fruit flavors. Good plus.
Lafite Rothschild N : Lead and trademark violet aromas. P : Lots of juicy fruit and fine acidity. Fabulous potential. Medium heavy mouth feel with enough restraint and structure to show that this is a wine worth of serious ageing. Silky texture and flawless progression on the palate. Great length with a soft velvet aftertaste. The balance is such that this Lafite will be a joy very young, or in 50 years. On the whole, a feminine style. Very good
Lynch Bages N : Serious ripe berry (cassis) bouquet with a floral element. Ethereal brambly quality with some cedar aromas. P : Very mouthfulling, but remains elegant throughout. A superb Lynch Bages with lively acidity continuing into a very long aftertaste. High quality tannins conducive to the long haul. Quintessential Pauillac with a floral aspect (blossoms) reappearing on the tail end. Very good;
Lynch Moussas N : Sweet and simple bouquet. P : Starts out by melting in the mouth and then reveals lots of acidity. An old-fashioned style. Good, long, and refreshing with some toasty oak. Worth looking into this wine’s future development. Very fruity and austere in a good kind of way. Quite long aftertaste. Unexpected quality. Good plus.
Mouton Rothschild N : Rather closed, but in line with the superb aromas of classic Mouton. P : Big mouth feel with noticeable oak. Tremendous length. While the oak blurs the wine’s considerable fruitiness, that is not surprising since this vintage will take a good twenty years and more to come around. As fine as Cabernet gets in Pauillac. Undoubtedly one of the best 22s tasted. Superlative.
Pichon Baron N : Monumental with “old library” aromas P : Medium-heavy mouth feel. Brambly as usual with textured tannin. A masculine expression of Pauillac. Tannin coats the teeth and the wine features refreshing acidity. Velvety finish with a long aftertaste of black fruit along with minerality. Very good.
Pichon Comtesse N : Gorgeous seductive nose with berry and roast coffee bean overtones. P : Round, fresh, and delicious. Open, with a floral component and an altogether sensual flavor profile. Very good.
Pontet Canet N : Rather subdued at this stage, but showing hints of anise and violet. Slightly spirity along with notes of toasty oak. P : Fleshy and fresh, with a fine texture. Concentrated, strong tannin accompanied by candied fruit flavors, especially strawberry and blackcurrant. Resonant blackberry overtones. Strong, but elegant with a very long aftertaste. Very good.
SAINT-ESTÈPHE
Calon Ségur N: Unexpressive at this time, but classic aromas in the background waiting to emerge. P: Starts out very plus with plush tarry flavors and somewhat unrelenting, but classy tannin. Tightly wound and very well-structured. Extremely long aftertaste and a great future ahead. Good plus to very good.
Cos d’Estournel N: Ethereal fruit with seductive cherry and violet nuances. P: A toned-down more sublte wine compared to some past vintages of Cos and the terroir’s proximity with Lafite comes through more than ever here. Candied fruit there, but the wine is not confected. Fine velvety aftertaste. Classic. Very good
Cos Labory N: Very little oak influenced. Uncomplicated and unremarkable fruit aromas. P: A little rough, with harsh tannins and fairly acidic. Lacks finesse. Solid and vinous, but not much else there. It was just announced that Michel Reybier of Cos d’Estournel has just acquired the estate and I’m sure we will be hearing much more about it in the near future. OK
Haut Marbuzet N: Ripe fruit, but revealing little depth or complexity at this time. P: Sweet fruit flavors, especially raspberry coming through. Strong wine typical of its appellation and in no way overoaked or with a dry finish as in some past vintages. Good.
Meyney N: Closed at this time, but promising. P: Fresh with fine ripe fruit flavours. A crowd-pleasing sort of wine with high-quality textured tannin on the finish. The sort of wine that is very enjoyable young or old. I preferred this to cru classé Grand Puy Ducasse belonging to the same owners. Good.
Montrose N: Lovely subtle cherry-vanilla aromas combined with a touch of herbaceousness and a musk. P: A big wine with lots of oak. This shows every sign of a very promising future and will need years before all the components meld, but the intrinsic balance is clearly there. Rich, full-bodied, very promising wine. Very good.
Phélan Ségur N: Dark fruit aromas. Still rather closed. P: Lovely flavor profile. Starts out quite round and melts in the mouth then goes into mineral mode. Good acidity with oak in check. This wine’s recent fine record is maintained. Olive nuances on the aftertaste. Belies the merely “foursquare” and solid reputation of Saint-Estèphe thanks to its elegance. Grand cru level for sure. Good plus
When my wife and I first came to Bordeaux in (gulp) 1978 after a couple of years in the Napa Valley, I can remember being impressed with the perfumed elegance of Bordeaux wines, but disappointed with their lack of body and what I’ll call oomph. It didn’t take long, however, before I came to prefer the style.
All those years ago, the red wines of Bordeaux were mostly 11 and 11.5% alcohol by volume. The standard level then bumped up to 12% for quite some time (including a legally allowed variation of 0.5 percent with the amount stated on the label) before creeping ever upward.
What do we have now? 2022 Haut Brion is pushing 15%. Haut Brion! I cite this château specifically because, along with Margaux, it is held up as a paragon of class and balance. And this first growth is by no means an anomaly today.
What happened?
Is it more about viticulture and winemaking, or mostly due to global warming? Should consumer preferences also be held accountable?
Whatever the causes, it would be fair to generalize that there has been a fundamental shift in the make-up of fine Bordeaux, above and beyond the “Parkerization” phenomenon of a few years ago. Is 2022 an atypical vintage that shouldn’t necesdsarily be perceived as the way of the future? Possibly, but I think it is part of a continuing trend.
The question is, have things changed for better or worse?
Having just finished a marathon session of en primeur barrel tastings, I think that a nuanced answer is called for. Let’s take the example of Haut Brion. I can honestly say that the wine is, in fact, balanced and classy. It carries its (almost) 15% with distinction. And I encountered plenty of other wines like that during my forays into the wine country. Only a minority of wines I sampled were under 14%. One Pomerol was even 15.5% – nearly as high as unfortified wine can go… On the other hand, I was also pleased to see that Angélus, an estate I have long felt was somewhat heavy-handed with extraction and oak, has backpedalled and deliberately toned things down.
If you had asked me five years ago about a 15% Bordeaux, I’d have been pretty dismissive and turned up my nose. A wine for barbarians! Well, times have changed. Yes, although some 2022s are ponderous, heavy, overly rich, and even have an alcoholic burn on the finish, these are the exceptions. Bordeaux has simply adapted to a bunch of factors and achieved a new sort of balance. I had an in-depth look at this and mostly liked what I saw, or rather tasted.
There is increased talk on the Right Bank of planting more Cabernet, especially Cabernet Franc, to replace Merlot now that the former ripens more fully thanks to climate change. This would also tend to bring down sugar levels.
Simone Signouret’s memoirs were entitled “La nostaligie n’est plus ce qu’elle était”, which I think is a great name. Anyway, for those of us who regret old-style Bordeaux, I would say that our memories can be somewhat selective… A number of wines from yesteryear were thin, herbaceous, and featured not-so-welcome acidity. All was not sweetness and light.
How will today’s great wines age? Your guess is as good as mine, but I am reminded of a tasting of California wines I attended in Bordeaux. The owner of a famous château sipped a wine and exclaimed that it was truly delicious, but wasn’t it unnatural for it to taste so good just four years after the vintage? Surely something was wrong… This left me thinking well, no, nothing’s wrong at all, and that for great wine to taste so good so early on is an advantage rather than a shortcoming. Some of my English friends may disagree, but ageworthiness is not a measure of quality in my book. Balance is. And if a fine balance can be achieved earlier, I say so much the better. Many of the 2022s are – a little – low in acidity so maybe they won’t be ones for the very long haul. But the vintage is a good one and I am not disappointed with it, nor worried about the future of Bordeaux.
It takes a while to produce accurate statistics about a new vintage, and the Bordeaux University report is eagerly awaited by the wine world. Here is this year’s, describing the 2022 growing season.
Institute of Vine and Wine Sciences of Bordeaux University, Oenological Research Unit
When it comes to assessing the 2022 vintage in the Bordeaux vineyards, it is important to distinguish the general climatic context from its impact on the quality of the wines. Extreme weather conditions, both in terms of high temperatures and low precipitation, as well as their consequences, unfortunately highlighted the reality of climate change and gave rise to serious concerns regarding the future of our planet. This report simply aims to shed light on the weather conditions and growing season over the course of the year, and the characteristics of the resulting wines, without hiding or minimising these concerns. However, after a 2021 vintage full of contrasts, we cannot deny ourselves the pleasure of declaring that, even this early in the ageing process, the wines produced in 2022 already seem quite exceptional and remarkable!
Considering the unprecedented weather conditions last year, we shall skip the usual introduction to this vintage report, reviewing the five prerequisites for a great red wine vintage in Bordeaux. These prerequisites were met in 2022 and will be mentioned later on in this report. After a slightly drier winter than usual, several cool nights in March resulted in bud break occurring as expected for the time of year and later than in 2021. Thanks to the delayed growth cycle, frost in early April caused significantly less damage in the vineyards compared to 2021, although yields were impacted in localised areas. April was the only month of the year that recorded near-average temperatures, slowing down vine growth. However, summery conditions set in from May onwards with daytime temperatures already exceeding 30°C. Vine growth accelerated from its previously average pace, and took on the characteristics of an early vintage. Flowering, beginning in mid-May, was quick and even, with few signs of coulure (shot berries) or millerandage (abnormal fruit set). Winegrowers’ nerves were once again put to the test during the second half of the month, due to violent storms. Hail damage, which was quite severe in some cases, fortunately remained localised. June once again saw high temperatures, with the first heatwave of the year, and was the only month in 2022 to record above-average rainfall. Precipitation, mainly during storms in the second half of the month, varied significantly from one region to the next, without significantly increasing the threat of vine diseases. The rainfall strongly impacted how the vines coped with the summer drought, depending on local variations in intensity. The hot weather continued, and even intensified, with a second heatwave in July. Around the same time, water stress set in, slowing grape development. The early character of the vintage was confirmed, with the berries beginning to change colour from the second half of July, while vine growth had already stopped. This chronology of events was highly propitious to the quality of the red wine grapes. The progress of véraison (colour change) depended mostly on the type of soil and water reserves after rainfall in June: while good overall, it was sometimes slow in the best-drained soils. The first signs of scorching were observed in late July and vineyard practices were adapted accordingly, particularly leaf thinning, which turned out to be particularly important. The month of August was once again hot and dry, while overnight temperatures remained reasonably cool. A few showers fell, without any notable impact on vegetative growth or the size of the berries, which remained particularly small. These conditions were conducive to the ripening of the red wine grapes, particularly the accumulation of phenolic compounds. The first red wine grapes were picked in early September, and weather conditions during the harvest made it possible for winegrowers to pick each grape variety at optimum ripeness, without fear of dilution or rot.
Hot, dry vintages are generally not ideal for white wine grapes. While the high summer temperatures actually resulted in low acidity and high sugar levels, the June rainfall nevertheless helped to preserve a certain freshness and above all, unexpected aromatic potential, especially on clay and clay-limestone soils with high water reserves. The white wine grapes were harvested historically early in perfect condition, thus avoiding the high temperatures in late August and early September, and their overall quality is good.
Sweet white wine producers’ nerves were once again put to the test in 2022. While the grapes were already ripe and perfectly healthy from mid-August onwards, drought conditions prevented the development of Botrytis cinerea. The first grapes, concentrated by raisining, were picked during the second half of September, but were considered unsuitable for the premium blends of sweet white wines. Long-awaited rainfall finally arrived at the end of the month, triggering the rapid development of Botryitis cinerea. Unfortunately, the fine weather, which had lasted so long, failed to return. It took the winegrowers a lot of nerve to wait for sufficient concentration, at the risk of losing their entire crop. The desired conditions were reached rather abruptly in mid-October, thanks to the return of warmer weather and a providential easterly wind. Estates that chose to wait patiently were rewarded and hurried to pick grapes with remarkable richness and purity, giving personality, balance, and depth to the 2022 fine sweet white wines.
A fairly dry winter and a frosty start to spring resulted in bud break occurring at an average date
Autumn was dry (-51 mm in October and November) and cool (-2.5 °C in October and November), followed by a mild, wet winter, particularly in December (+0.5°C), with rainfall 54 mm above average. January and February were dry and sunny (Table I). January temperatures oscillated between almost springlike conditions (similar to New Year’s Day) and frequent spells of frost in late January, with overall monthly temperatures remaining close to normal for the time of year. Warmer temperatures in February meant that 2022 was the 4th year running to record milder than average temperatures during this month (1981-2000). Temperatures fell below 0°C on only 6 days.
In March, a series of low-pressure systems at the start of the month gradually gave way to springlike conditions. Overall temperatures were one to two degrees above average, despite mediocre sunshine for the first two weeks (Table I) and several frosts under clear skies after March 20th. Low rainfall during the month led to cumulative precipitation in winter 2021-2022 being slightly below average.
These conditions delayed the onset of bud break. Bud break began in localised areas at the end of March and intensified during the first week of April, but rather unevenly depending on the sector.
Sunshine (hours)
Rainfall (mm)
Average minimum temp. (°C)
Average maximum temp. (°C)
2022
1991-2010 average
2022
1981-2010 average
2022
1981-2010 average
2022
1981-2010 average
January
135
96
40
87
1.9
3.1
10
10.0
February
125
115
49
71
5.1
3.3
14.2
11.7
March
156
170
35
65
7.2
5.4
16.3
15.1
April
176
182
64
78
8.1
7.4
18
17.3
May
284
217
19
80
13.1
11.0
25
21.2
June
247
239
100
62
16.2
14.1
27.5
24.5
July
350
249
3
50
17.4
15.8
31
26.9
August
204
241
26
56
18.8
15.7
31.8
27.1
September
231
203
39
84
14.2
12.9
25.8
24.0
October
124
147
57
93
14.7
10.4
23.8
19.4
Development of phenological ripeness in 2022 compared to the past 11 years (Data from SRAL and ISVV)
April frost struck again
April began with two spells of frost between the 2nd and 5th, then again during the night of the 10th. In 2022, frost struck the vineyards at earlier stages in the vine’s development, with local variations, unlike in 2021, when it occurred later and was more severe. The damage was therefore more difficult to evaluate, and also varied greatly depending on the stage of bud break and the implementation of frost-protection systems.
After a spell of fairly wintry weather, warmer conditions set in on the 10th and lasted throughout the month, with temperatures close to normal. Rainfall, concentrated between April 6th and 10th, was sometimes heavy, yet remained below average, accentuating the winter water deficit (Table I).
These conditions slowed down vine growth until the middle of the month, delaying the emergence of secondary buds in plots affected by frost. In plots unaffected by frost, vine growth was also slow at the start of the month before accelerating from mid-April onwards, thanks to above-average temperatures. At this stage, vine growth was comparable to the ten-year average.
A warm, dry May, conducive to vine growth, and quick, even flowering
Springlike conditions in late April gave way to summery weather in May. The first hot spell of the year was observed between May 8th and 22nd, with daytime highs 4.3°C above average and several days recording temperatures above 30°C . It was the warmest May since 1950. Consequently, thunderstorms broke out between May 15th and 24th, sometimes accompanied by hail. The resulting damage was extremely localised. The water deficit nevertheless remained significant (Table I) and cumulative rainfall was very uneven throughout the vineyards (up to 60 mm in La Brède (source: CA33)). With only 4 days of rainfall in the Bordeaux region in May, there were, on average, 5 to 10 fewer days of rainfall than usual.
These weather conditions were propitious to vine growth, with the phenological stages developing rapidly and weekly growth reaching up to 30 centimetres (source: BSV), resulting in an early vintage.
The first flowers appeared in mid-May, two weeks later than in 2021 (Table II). Flowering was quick and even with mid-flowering observed during the last ten days of May. Favourable weather conditions with no signs of coulure or millerandage meant that the first prerequisite for a great vintage, i.e. quick, even flowering, was fulfilled.
Mid-flowering and mid-véraison dates in 2022 compared to the past 11 years and the 20-year average
Table II
Period
Mid-flowering
Mid-véraison
2000-2020
4 June
6 August
2011
17 May
21 July
2012
11 June
12 August
2013
18 June
22 August
2014
7 June
13 August
2015
5 June
6 August
2016
11 June
7 August
2017
30 May
30 July
2018
3 June
4 August
2019
4 June
9 August
2020
26 May
1 August
2021
10 June
11 August
2022
23 May
28 July
A hot, stormy start to summer after fruit set maintained early vine growth and partially reconstituted water reserves in the soil. A second heatwave without rainfall was conducive to early véraison.
The hot weather in May intensified in June. June 2022, the fourth hottest since 1947, was particularly remarkable for the number of days with temperatures above 30°C, as well as the earliness and intensity of the heatwave.
After a hot spell in the middle of June (16th to 18th ), several storms broke out between the 17th and 26th, accompanied by heavy rainfall for the first time in five months. These intense rainy spells were accompanied by localised hail, in Pessac Léognan on the 18th and in the Médoc on the 20th, causing variable damage.
At this stage,with vegetative growth in full swing, the berries benefited from both the heat and rainfall. Their early phenological development during flowering was thus preserved and bunch closure was observed in the earliest plots before the end of the month.
July was also hot and dry with abundant sunshine (Table I, ). After the early heatwave in June, a second hot spell set in around the middle of the month. Temperatures were very high, sometimes above 35°C, and the lack of rainfall significantly slowed down berry growth. The first signs of notable water stress were observed from mid-July onwards in plots planted on shallow soils, while vines grown on less well-drained soils benefited from the welcome rainfall in June.
The berries stopped growing at this stage, which partially explains their small size at harvest. Véraison began on July 20th , getting off to a slow start before accelerating towards the end of the month (Table II). It was largely dependent on June rainfall and varied significantly from one sector to the next. Overall, véraison was quick and even, although interrupted in plots planted on particularly well-drained or shallow soils, as well as on the youngest vines.
The first signs of scorching appeared around that time. Foliage management, particularly reducing leaf thinning, was key to success in this vintage, by preventing the berries from shrivelling.
Therefore, a stop to vegetative growth before véraison, the third prerequisite for a perfect red wine vintage, occurred earlier than usual, favouring even véraison in the sectors which benefited from June rainfall. However, in certain particularly well-drained and shallow soils, water stress set in too early and severely in localised areas, leading to scorching and interrupted véraison.
A hot, dry end to summer. Ideal weather conditions allowed winegrowers to wait patiently for the optimum time to pick.
In the majority of plots in our sector, véraison was complete by August 15th. Temperatures at this stage were close to the seasonal average. A few rainy spells, which had no major impact on the grapes, triggered ripening in mid-August, without significantly increasing berry size.
The hot, dry conditions continued into late August and throughout September). Winegrowers could therefore wait patiently for the ideal time to pick without worrying about the threat of vine diseases.
Due to the most extreme temperatures and drought conditions recorded in Bordeaux since the late 19th century, the Sauvignon Blanc grape-picking started historically early, on August 9th in the Sauternes region, becoming widespread throughout the white wine vineyards in the following week.
Excessively high temperatures during the growth cycle, accompanied by very early water stress, often leads to fears of a lack of aromas and acidity in dry white wines. However, rather surprisingly given the weather conditions during the 2022 vintage, the Sauvignon Blanc grapes were indeed low in acidity, close to levels in 2015 and 2016, yet maintained their promising aromatic potential, while their sugar content was comparable to 2020. In terroirs with good water reserves (clay and clay-limestone), the grape skins remained crunchy until the harvest, with no signs of over-ripening, with excellent concentration on tasting.
Storms in late June, bringing up to 130 mm rainfall in localised areas, significantly helped to maintain balance in the white wine grapes, conducive to the production of fine dry white wines.
Picking for Sémillon grapes, which were also very early-ripening, began on August 13th. The grapes were sweet, yet not excessively so, with good concentration. Less sensitive to excessive temperatures than Sauvignon Blanc, their aromas were intense, evoking white fruit and apricot notes, and contributing to the delicious, smooth character of the blended wines.
Table III
Harvest dates for dry white wine grapes in the Bordeaux region in 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020 and 2021
Sauvignon Blanc
Sémillon
2013
10 – 22 September
21 – 25 September
2014
6 – 12 September
12 – 20 September
2015
28 August – 6 September
5 – 11 September
2016
2 – 15 September
8 – 18 September
2017
16 August – 7 September
1 – 15 September
2018
23 August – 10 September
5 – 15 September
2019
26 August – 19 September
6 – 23 September
2020
14 August – 5 September
27 August – 10 September
2021
28 August – 18 September
5 – 24 September
2022
9 August – 29 September
13 August – 2 September
Table IV
Composition of Sauvignon Blanc grapes from a plot with limestone soil in the Graves region in 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017.2018, 2019, 2020, and 2021
Initial analyses of the grape juice showed that the sugar content was higher compared to the same stage in 2021. In fact, as of late August, all the plots in our sector showed a Potential Alcohol by Volume above 13% (Table V).
Table V
Variations in sugar content and acidity of red wine grapes during ripening in reference plots
Weight per 100 berries (g)
Sugar (g/L)
TA (g/L H2SO4)
Total anthocyanins (mg/L)
2022
22/8 Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon
12392
208184
2.94.2
17511745
05/9 Merlot12/9Cabernet Sauvignon
12295
240232
2.43.0
19802421
2021 31/8 Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon
175 130
183 175
5.9 8.4
1359 1783
27/9 Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon
176 138
205 205
3.3 4.0
1780 2138
2020
31/8 Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon
154 106
216 201
2.6 3.4
1803 2038
07/9 Merlot 14/9 Cabernet Sauvignon
151 99
229 235
2.6 3.4
1835 2416
201926/8 Merlot
119
199
4.7
1160
Cabernet Sauvignon
99
177
7
16/9 Merlot
127
244
2.7
1780
30/9 Cabernet Sauvignon
105
233
3.3
1901
2018
27/8 Merlot
142
214
3.3
1656
Cabernet Sauvignon
116
193
4.9
1442
10/9 Merlot 24/9 Cabernet Sauvignon
143 126
233 230
2.5 2.8
1749 1826
Two weeks later, in early September, the Merlots reached particularly high sugar levels, among the highest recorded in the last ten years (240 g/L) (Table V).
Already fairly low at the start of sampling, the level of acidity decreased regularly during ripening, reaching some of the lowest levels recorded over the past ten vintages .
At harvest, the average pH of the Merlots was 3.5, compared to 3.4 for the Cabernet Sauvignons. These values were relatively low and unexpected, given the particularly low acidity levels recorded in the grapes at harvest.
In early September, still under ideal conditions (with a total absence of Botrytis cinerea), the level of phenolic ripeness was comparable to or already higher than the highest levels recorded in recent vintages (Table V).
From the final days of August onwards, the Merlot grapes were incredibly fruity. No herbaceous notes were observed during tasting, as later confirmed by particularly low methoxypyrazine (IBMP) levels (< 2 ng/L in late August) in the grape juice.
The first Merlot grapes were thus harvested as early as the first week of September, under extremely favourable conditions. The Merlot harvest was relatively rapid everywhere in Gironde. Picking on the plots in our sector finished before mid-September.
Meanwhile, the Cabernet Sauvignon grapes continued ripening throughout September with no threat of vine diseases thanks to prolonged fine weather.
As for the Merlots, the sugar content at harvest was one of the highest recorded in recent years . The total acidity of the grapes was the lowest observed over the past 12 years, which is unprecedented for a late-ripening grape variety.
The total anthocyanin content regularly increased during ripening, reaching remarkably high levels at harvest. On the plots in our sector, they were comparable to the highest levels ever recorded
Total anthocyanin content (mg/L) of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes in reference plots in 2022, compared with four vintages from the previous decade
Harvesting of the Cabernet Sauvignon grapes began in mid-September and lasted until early October. The excellent condition of the grapes was a source of relief for winegrowers, who could wait patiently for the right time to pick based on organoleptic criteria. As for the Merlots, the IBMP levels were already negligible (around 2 ng/L) as of September 5th and the complexity of the fruity aromas was clearly noticeable from mid-September, when picking began.
The weather conditions in summer 2022 meant that winegrowers could determine the harvest dates according to organoleptic analyses without needing to worry about the condition of the grapes. The Merlot grapes, harvested in perfect condition, presented remarkable analyses at harvest time. Fine weather during September also allowed the Cabernet Sauvignon grapes to finish ripening under optimal conditions.
Undoubtedly, the fourth and fifth prerequisites for a very great vintage were fully met in 2022.
After a late start, Botrytis cinerea developed very quickly
Once again, sweet white wine producers’ nerves were sorely tested in 2022. In late August, when the extraordinarily early dry white wine harvest drew to a close in the Sauternes region, the grapes dedicated to the production of sweet white wines were perfectly ripe and healthy, with excellent yields. However, as the fine weather continued into September, the winegrowers became worried, since the dry, sunny days prevented the development of Botrytis cinerea. In this context, an initial pass was carried out in the vineyards during the second half of September to collect the raisined grapes that would not be affected by noble rot. A spell of wet weather set in on September 24th. While this facilitated the quick, even development of Botrytis cinerea, it failed to provide the concentration needed to produce fine sweet white wines. The fear of a total loss of the harvest was on all winegrowers’ minds and, as in previous vintages, they used various coping strategies. Some estates decided to collect the grapes in early October when they were not yet perfectly botrytised, to ensure sufficient production levels, while others decided to take a gamble and wait for favourable weather conditions.
By a stroke of luck, from mid-October onwards, the return to warmer temperatures and, above all, an intense easterly wind concentrated the grapes quickly and evenly. The harvesting of superb, botrytised grapes became widespread in mid-October, constituting the lion’s share of the 2022 sweet white wine vintage, both in terms of quality and quantity. The grapes were perfectly ripe, low in acidity, and quickly reached extraordinarily high sugar levels, making picking more urgent. A final pass took place in late October in the earliest plots, yielding lower quantities.
As another challenging growing season drew to a close and nearly three months after the first dry white wine grapes were picked, the harvest was complete, with production volumes varying depending on the strategy chosen, yet higher overall compared to previous vintages (with an average yield of 15 hL/ha for the Sauternes appellation). The fermentation of the grape must, sometimes particularly high in sugar yet pure and highly promising, could finally begin.
Good dry white wines, remarkably rich sweet white wines and, on both banks, extraordinary red wines, which are concentrated, yet surprisingly well-balanced
One man’s loss is another man’s gain and the weather conditions were, in theory, significantly less favourable in 2022 than in 2021. The overall lower acidity of the grapes, due to the hot summer temperatures, led to a particularly early harvest. Nevertheless, in this context, the nature of the terroirs played a key role and the finest plots, especially those planted on clay and clay-limestone soils, produced surprisingly good dry white wines. The Sauvignon Blancs are fruity, soft, and clear-cut, with citrus and tropical fruit aromas that are sure to win over those who usually do not like their strong varietal character. The Sémillons, sometimes flabby and bitter on second-rate terroirs, developed intense peach and apricot notes. The best ones are flavoursome and well-balanced, with a long aftertaste.
Given the conditions described above and the diverse strategies adopted, the 2022 sweet white wines were very good overall, yet showed some variation both in style and volumes produced. The first batches, made from raisined grapes or those picked in early October, added complexity and freshness to the blend when added in small proportions, but were not suitable for producing great sweet white wines. In contrast, the estates that chose to wait were able to harvest grape musts of unprecedented depth and richness, producing outstanding wines. They are low in acidity, but well-balanced with intense flavours and should age extremely well, like previous great vintages.
The result of a growing season marked by unusual weather conditions and following a 2021 vintage full of contrasts, 2022 Bordeaux red wines are highly anticipated among trend-setters, buyers and consumers, even before their presentation en primeur. There is talk in Bordeaux of an exceptional vintage, which everyone loves to compare to such and such glory of the past. Let’s leave this difficult task to the experienced tasters who will comment in detail on the wines of 2022. Meanwhile, we will keep our comments factual and save our superlatives for last year’s weather. Record-breaking heat, drought and sunshine over several months meant that, by the time the harvest arrived, it was difficult to evaluate the real quality potential of the vintage. One thing for certain, however, is the considerable difference in yields, which was not due, as is often the case, to damage from frost or mildew, but rather to the drought, which varied in intensity, depending on the type of soil, the age of the vines, the intensity of June rainfall, and viticultural choices. Ranging from low to very low on gravelly soils, the volumes produced on some clay-limestone soils in the Libourne region were perfectly satisfactory. Another fact is that the berries were generally very small, even more so than in 2010, particularly for Cabernet Sauvignon, as a direct consequence of the dry conditions during their formation and development. This characteristic had to be taken into account by winemakers, since excessive extraction was likely to produce unbalanced wines. In addition, when the grapes were put into vat, the total acidity level was sometimes worryingly low. However, as is often the case, it naturally increased during alcoholic fermentation to reach more standard values. Winemakers’ experience of previous hot vintages was, therefore, beneficial, discouraging them from acidifying the must, which would have irrevocably upset the balance of flavours in the red wines.
At the start of ageing and in general, the 2022 fine red Bordeaux wines appear to be particularly successful overall and even exceptional in many cases. Despite the extreme weather conditions, the 2022 vintage actually benefited from rather favourable conditions at key stages in the growth cycle and during ripening. Of course, as is always the case, it is best not to generalise, but to consider each appellation, and even each estate, individually. Some fairly acute, yet fortunately marginal, cases of water stress were observed on extremely well-drained soils and in young vines, resulting in delayed ripening, defoliation, and shrivelled berries.
The Merlots from the finest terroirs, particularly clay-limestone soils, are outstanding. They are irresistibly charming and classy: fruity yet not overripe and smooth yet well-balanced. Echoing the comments made about the 2020 vintage, its surprising success in a year marked by historically hot, dry weather challenged certain theories or statements suggesting that this grape variety was outdated in Bordeaux. On the finest soils, and provided that viticultural practices are adapted accordingly, Merlot is completely capable of producing remarkable wines. As has been the case for several vintages now, Cabernet FrancFranc is also a great success. Its aromatic intensity adds an extra touch to the final blend, while its characteristic texture, demanding perfect ripeness, contributes to the wines’ freshness and balance. The success of Petit Verdot in a dry vintage such as 2022 is particularly down to the nature of the soil. In the absence of excessive water stress, it gives the wines a spicy touch and characteristic smoothness. Finally, Cabernet Sauvignon, which Bordeaux winegrowers have fought so hard in the past to pick at optimum ripeness, continues to benefit from the hotter, drier conditions of vintages over the past decade. Its late-ripening character and the fact that it is often planted in well-drained soils has exposed it to excessive water stress in certain cases. Nevertheless, the finest terroirs produced impressive wines, with a powerful tannic structure, no signs of austerity, and an easygoing character, while remaining highly distinguished.
Despite the extreme weather, the 2022 vintage appears to have produced surprisingly well-balanced, harmonious wines, which are tannic yet fleshy, while preserving the freshness and brilliance typical of fine Bordeaux wines. As always, they will reveal their full potential with age, but at this stage they seem particularly promising and, quite simply, outstanding.
[CO1]Coquille dans le fançais – il faudrait remplacer “En absence de” par “En l’absence de”
The 2022 vintage in Bordeaux
Pr. Laurence GENY, Elodie GUITTARD, Dr. Valérie LAVIGNE and Pr. Axel MARCHAL
Institute of Vine and Wine Sciences of Bordeaux University, Oenological Research Unit
in conjunction with
N. Alvarez, C. Baz, V. Teninge, L. Riquier and A. Rabot
When it comes to assessing the 2022 vintage in the Bordeaux vineyards, it is important to distinguish the general climatic context from its impact on the quality of the wines. Extreme weather conditions, both in terms of high temperatures and low precipitation, as well as their consequences, unfortunately highlighted the reality of climate change and gave rise to serious concerns regarding the future of our planet. This report simply aims to shed light on the weather conditions and growing season over the course of the year, and the characteristics of the resulting wines, without hiding or minimising these concerns. However, after a 2021 vintage full of contrasts, we cannot deny ourselves the pleasure of declaring that, even this early in the ageing process, the wines produced in 2022 already seem quite exceptional and remarkable!
Considering the unprecedented weather conditions last year, we shall skip the usual introduction to this vintage report, reviewing the five prerequisites for a great red wine vintage in Bordeaux. These prerequisites were met in 2022 and will be mentioned later on in this report. After a slightly drier winter than usual, several cool nights in March resulted in bud break occurring as expected for the time of year and later than in 2021. Thanks to the delayed growth cycle, frost in early April caused significantly less damage in the vineyards compared to 2021, although yields were impacted in localised areas. April was the only month of the year that recorded near-average temperatures, slowing down vine growth. However, summery conditions set in from May onwards with daytime temperatures already exceeding 30°C. Vine growth accelerated from its previously average pace, and took on the characteristics of an early vintage. Flowering, beginning in mid-May, was quick and even, with few signs of coulure (shot berries) or millerandage (abnormal fruit set). Winegrowers’ nerves were once again put to the test during the second half of the month, due to violent storms. Hail damage, which was quite severe in some cases, fortunately remained localised. June once again saw high temperatures, with the first heatwave of the year, and was the only month in 2022 to record above-average rainfall. Precipitation, mainly during storms in the second half of the month, varied significantly from one region to the next, without significantly increasing the threat of vine diseases. The rainfall strongly impacted how the vines coped with the summer drought, depending on local variations in intensity. The hot weather continued, and even intensified, with a second heatwave in July. Around the same time, water stress set in, slowing grape development. The early character of the vintage was confirmed, with the berries beginning to change colour from the second half of July, while vine growth had already stopped. This chronology of events was highly propitious to the quality of the red wine grapes. The progress of véraison (colour change) depended mostly on the type of soil and water reserves after rainfall in June: while good overall, it was sometimes slow in the best-drained soils. The first signs of scorching were observed in late July and vineyard practices were adapted accordingly, particularly leaf thinning, which turned out to be particularly important. The month of August was once again hot and dry, while overnight temperatures remained reasonably cool. A few showers fell, without any notable impact on vegetative growth or the size of the berries, which remained particularly small. These conditions were conducive to the ripening of the red wine grapes, particularly the accumulation of phenolic compounds. The first red wine grapes were picked in early September, and weather conditions during the harvest made it possible for winegrowers to pick each grape variety at optimum ripeness, without fear of dilution or rot.
Hot, dry vintages are generally not ideal for white wine grapes. While the high summer temperatures actually resulted in low acidity and high sugar levels, the June rainfall nevertheless helped to preserve a certain freshness and above all, unexpected aromatic potential, especially on clay and clay-limestone soils with high water reserves. The white wine grapes were harvested historically early in perfect condition, thus avoiding the high temperatures in late August and early September, and their overall quality is good.
Sweet white wine producers’ nerves were once again put to the test in 2022. While the grapes were already ripe and perfectly healthy from mid-August onwards, drought conditions prevented the development of Botrytis cinerea. The first grapes, concentrated by raisining, were picked during the second half of September, but were considered unsuitable for the premium blends of sweet white wines. Long-awaited rainfall finally arrived at the end of the month, triggering the rapid development of Botryitis cinerea. Unfortunately, the fine weather, which had lasted so long, failed to return. It took the winegrowers a lot of nerve to wait for sufficient concentration, at the risk of losing their entire crop. The desired conditions were reached rather abruptly in mid-October, thanks to the return of warmer weather and a providential easterly wind. Estates that chose to wait patiently were rewarded and hurried to pick grapes with remarkable richness and purity, giving personality, balance, and depth to the 2022 fine sweet white wines.
A fairly dry winter and a frosty start to spring resulted in bud break occurring at an average date
Autumn was dry (-51 mm in October and November) and cool (-2.5 °C in October and November), followed by a mild, wet winter, particularly in December (+0.5°C), with rainfall 54 mm above average. January and February were dry and sunny (Table I). January temperatures oscillated between almost springlike conditions (similar to New Year’s Day) and frequent spells of frost in late January, with overall monthly temperatures remaining close to normal for the time of year. Warmer temperatures in February meant that 2022 was the 4th year running to record milder than average temperatures during this month (1981-2000). Temperatures fell below 0°C on only 6 days.
In March, a series of low-pressure systems at the start of the month gradually gave way to springlike conditions. Overall temperatures were one to two degrees above average, despite mediocre sunshine for the first two weeks (Table I) and several frosts under clear skies after March 20th. Low rainfall during the month led to cumulative precipitation in winter 2021-2022 being slightly below average.
These conditions delayed the onset of bud break. Bud break began in localised areas at the end of March and intensified during the first week of April, but rather unevenly depending on the sector).
Maximum temperatures (°C) Minimum temperatures (°C)
Average maximum and minimum temperatures in the winter of 2022, compared to 1981-2010
Data from Mérignac (Météo France)
Cumulative winter rainfall (mm) from December 2021 to March 2022, compared to the past 10 years and the 20-year average
Data from Mérignac (Météo France)
Table I
Weather data for 2022, rainfall and temperature (compared to the 1981-2010 average) and hours of sunshine (compared to the 1991-2010 average)
Data from Mérignac (Météo France)
Sunshine (hours)
Rainfall (mm)
Average minimum temp. (°C)
Average maximum temp. (°C)
2022
1991-2010 average
2022
1981-2010 average
2022
1981-2010 average
2022
1981-2010 average
January
135
96
40
87
1.9
3.1
10
10.0
February
125
115
49
71
5.1
3.3
14.2
11.7
March
156
170
35
65
7.2
5.4
16.3
15.1
April
176
182
64
78
8.1
7.4
18
17.3
May
284
217
19
80
13.1
11.0
25
21.2
June
247
239
100
62
16.2
14.1
27.5
24.5
July
350
249
3
50
17.4
15.8
31
26.9
August
204
241
26
56
18.8
15.7
31.8
27.1
September
231
203
39
84
14.2
12.9
25.8
24.0
October
124
147
57
93
14.7
10.4
23.8
19.4
Development of phenological ripeness in 2022 compared to the past 11 years (Data from SRAL and ISVV)
April frost struck again
April began with two spells of frost between the 2nd and 5th, then again during the night of the 10th. In 2022, frost struck the vineyards at earlier stages in the vine’s development, with local variations, unlike in 2021, when it occurred later and was more severe. The damage was therefore more difficult to evaluate, and also varied greatly depending on the stage of bud break and the implementation of frost-protection systems.
After a spell of fairly wintry weather, warmer conditions set in on the 10th and lasted throughout the month, with temperatures close to normal. Rainfall, concentrated between April 6th and 10th, was sometimes heavy, yet remained below average, accentuating the winter water deficit (Table I).
These conditions slowed down vine growth until the middle of the month, delaying the emergence of secondary buds in plots affected by frost. In plots unaffected by frost, vine growth was also slow at the start of the month before accelerating from mid-April onwards, thanks to above-average temperatures. At this stage, vine growth was comparable to the ten-year average.
Daily variations in temperature and precipitation in April 2022
Data from Mérignac (Météo France)
A warm, dry May, conducive to vine growth, and quick, even flowering
Springlike conditions in late April gave way to summery weather in May. The first hot spell of the year was observed between May 8th and 22nd, with daytime highs 4.3°C above average and several days recording temperatures above 30°C ). It was the warmest May since 1950. Consequently, thunderstorms broke out between May 15th and 24th, sometimes accompanied by hail. The resulting damage was extremely localised. The water deficit nevertheless remained significant (Table I) and cumulative rainfall was very uneven throughout the vineyards (up to 60 mm in La Brède (source: CA33)). With only 4 days of rainfall in the Bordeaux region in May, there were, on average, 5 to 10 fewer days of rainfall than usual.
These weather conditions were propitious to vine growth, with the phenological stages developing rapidly and weekly growth reaching up to 30 centimetres (source: BSV), resulting in an early vintage.
The first flowers appeared in mid-May, two weeks later than in 2021 (Table II). Flowering was quick and even with mid-flowering observed during the last ten days of May. Favourable weather conditions with no signs of coulure or millerandage meant that the first prerequisite for a great vintage, i.e. quick, even flowering, was fulfilled.
Table II
Mid-flowering and mid-véraison dates in 2022 compared to the past 11 years and the 20-year average
Period
Mid-flowering
Mid-véraison
2000-2020
4 June
6 August
2011
17 May
21 July
2012
11 June
12 August
2013
18 June
22 August
2014
7 June
13 August
2015
5 June
6 August
2016
11 June
7 August
2017
30 May
30 July
2018
3 June
4 August
2019
4 June
9 August
2020
26 May
1 August
2021
10 June
11 August
2022
23 May
28 July
Flowering
Daily variations in temperature and precipitation in May and June 2022
Data from Mérignac (Météo France)
A hot, stormy start to summer after fruit set maintained early vine growth and partially reconstituted water reserves in the soil. A second heatwave without rainfall was conducive to early véraison.
The hot weather in May intensified in June. June 2022, the fourth hottest since 1947, was particularly remarkable for the number of days with temperatures above 30°C, as well as the earliness and intensity of the heatwave.
After a hot spell in the middle of June (16th to 18th ), several storms broke out between the 17th and 26th, accompanied by heavy rainfall for the first time in five months. These intense rainy spells were accompanied by localised hail, in Pessac Léognan on the 18th and in the Médoc on the 20th, causing variable damage.
At this stage,with vegetative growth in full swing, the berries benefited from both the heat and rainfall. Their early phenological development during flowering was thus preserved and bunch closure was observed in the earliest plots before the end of the month.
July was also hot and dry with abundant sunshine. After the early heatwave in June, a second hot spell set in around the middle of the month. Temperatures were very high, sometimes above 35°C, and the lack of rainfall significantly slowed down berry growth. The first signs of notable water stress were observed from mid-July onwards in plots planted on shallow soils, while vines grown on less well-drained soils benefited from the welcome rainfall in June.
The berries stopped growing at this stage, which partially explains their small size at harvest. Véraison began on July 20th , getting off to a slow start before accelerating towards the end of the month (Table II). It was largely dependent on June rainfall and varied significantly from one sector to the next. Overall, véraison was quick and even, although interrupted in plots planted on particularly well-drained or shallow soils, as well as on the youngest vines.
The first signs of scorching appeared around that time. Foliage management, particularly reducing leaf thinning, was key to success in this vintage, by preventing the berries from shrivelling.
Daily variations in temperature and precipitation in July 2022
Data from Mérignac (Météo France)
Therefore, a stop to vegetative growth before véraison, the third prerequisite for a perfect red wine vintage, occurred earlier than usual, favouring even véraison in the sectors which benefited from June rainfall. However, in certain particularly well-drained and shallow soils, water stress set in too early and severely in localised areas, leading to scorching and interrupted véraison.
A hot, dry end to summer. Ideal weather conditions allowed winegrowers to wait patiently for the optimum time to pick.
In the majority of plots in our sector, véraison was complete by August 15th. Temperatures at this stage were close to the seasonal average). A few rainy spells, which had no major impact on the grapes, triggered ripening in mid-August, without significantly increasing berry size.
The hot, dry conditions continued into late August and throughout September. Winegrowers could therefore wait patiently for the ideal time to pick without worrying about the threat of vine diseases.
AUGUST SEPTEMBER
Daily variations in temperature and precipitation in August and September 2022
Data from Mérignac (Météo France)
Due to the most extreme temperatures and drought conditions recorded in Bordeaux since the late 19th century, the Sauvignon Blanc grape-picking started historically early, on August 9th in the Sauternes region, becoming widespread throughout the white wine vineyards in the following week.
Excessively high temperatures during the growth cycle, accompanied by very early water stress, often leads to fears of a lack of aromas and acidity in dry white wines. However, rather surprisingly given the weather conditions during the 2022 vintage, the Sauvignon Blanc grapes were indeed low in acidity, close to levels in 2015 and 2016, yet maintained their promising aromatic potential, while their sugar content was comparable to 2020. In terroirs with good water reserves (clay and clay-limestone), the grape skins remained crunchy until the harvest, with no signs of over-ripening, with excellent concentration on tasting.
Storms in late June, bringing up to 130 mm rainfall in localised areas, significantly helped to maintain balance in the white wine grapes, conducive to the production of fine dry white wines.
Picking for Sémillon grapes, which were also very early-ripening, began on August 13th. The grapes were sweet, yet not excessively so, with good concentration. Less sensitive to excessive temperatures than Sauvignon Blanc, their aromas were intense, evoking white fruit and apricot notes, and contributing to the delicious, smooth character of the blended wines.
Table III
Harvest dates for dry white wine grapes in the Bordeaux region in 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020 and 2021
Sauvignon Blanc
Sémillon
2013
10 – 22 September
21 – 25 September
2014
6 – 12 September
12 – 20 September
2015
28 August – 6 September
5 – 11 September
2016
2 – 15 September
8 – 18 September
2017
16 August – 7 September
1 – 15 September
2018
23 August – 10 September
5 – 15 September
2019
26 August – 19 September
6 – 23 September
2020
14 August – 5 September
27 August – 10 September
2021
28 August – 18 September
5 – 24 September
2022
9 August – 29 September
13 August – 2 September
Table IV
Composition of Sauvignon Blanc grapes from a plot with limestone soil in the Graves region in 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017.2018, 2019, 2020, and 2021
Initial analyses of the grape juice showed that the sugar content was higher compared to the same stage in 2021. In fact, as of late August, all the plots in our sector showed a Potential Alcohol by Volume above 13% (Table V).
Table V
Variations in sugar content and acidity of red wine grapes during ripening in reference plots
Weight per 100 berries (g)
Sugar (g/L)
TA (g/L H2SO4)
Total anthocyanins (mg/L)
2022
22/8 Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon
12392
208184
2.94.2
17511745
05/9 Merlot12/9Cabernet Sauvignon
12295
240232
2.43.0
19802421
2021 31/8 Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon
175 130
183 175
5.9 8.4
1359 1783
27/9 Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon
176 138
205 205
3.3 4.0
1780 2138
2020
31/8 Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon
154 106
216 201
2.6 3.4
1803 2038
07/9 Merlot 14/9 Cabernet Sauvignon
151 99
229 235
2.6 3.4
1835 2416
201926/8 Merlot
119
199
4.7
1160
Cabernet Sauvignon
99
177
7
16/9 Merlot
127
244
2.7
1780
30/9 Cabernet Sauvignon
105
233
3.3
1901
2018
27/8 Merlot
142
214
3.3
1656
Cabernet Sauvignon
116
193
4.9
1442
10/9 Merlot 24/9 Cabernet Sauvignon
143 126
233 230
2.5 2.8
1749 1826
Two weeks later, in early September, the Merlots reached particularly high sugar levels, among the highest recorded in the last ten years (240 g/L) (Table V).
Already fairly low at the start of sampling, the level of acidity decreased regularly during ripening, reaching some of the lowest levels recorded over the past ten vintages.
At harvest, the average pH of the Merlots was 3.5, compared to 3.4 for the Cabernet Sauvignons. These values were relatively low and unexpected, given the particularly low acidity levels recorded in the grapes at harvest.
In early September, still under ideal conditions (with a total absence of Botrytis cinerea), the level of phenolic ripeness was comparable to or already higher than the highest levels recorded in recent vintages (Table V).
From the final days of August onwards, the Merlot grapes were incredibly fruity. No herbaceous notes were observed during tasting, as later confirmed by particularly low methoxypyrazine (IBMP) levels (< 2 ng/L in late August) in the grape juice.
The first Merlot grapes were thus harvested as early as the first week of September, under extremely favourable conditions. The Merlot harvest was relatively rapid everywhere in Gironde. Picking on the plots in our sector finished before mid-September.
Meanwhile, the Cabernet Sauvignon grapes continued ripening throughout September with no threat of vine diseases thanks to prolonged fine weather.
As for the Merlots, the sugar content at harvest was one of the highest recorded in recent years. The total acidity of the grapes was the lowest observed over the past 12 years, which is unprecedented for a late-ripening grape variety.
The total anthocyanin content regularly increased during ripening, reaching remarkably high levels at harvest. On the plots in our sector, they were comparable to the highest levels ever recorded.
Harvesting of the Cabernet Sauvignon grapes began in mid-September and lasted until early October. The excellent condition of the grapes was a source of relief for winegrowers, who could wait patiently for the right time to pick based on organoleptic criteria. As for the Merlots, the IBMP levels were already negligible (around 2 ng/L) as of September 5th and the complexity of the fruity aromas was clearly noticeable from mid-September, when picking began.
The weather conditions in summer 2022 meant that winegrowers could determine the harvest dates according to organoleptic analyses without needing to worry about the condition of the grapes. The Merlot grapes, harvested in perfect condition, presented remarkable analyses at harvest time. Fine weather during September also allowed the Cabernet Sauvignon grapes to finish ripening under optimal conditions.
Undoubtedly, the fourth and fifth prerequisites for a very great vintage were fully met in 2022.
After a late start, Botrytis cinerea developed very quickly
Once again, sweet white wine producers’ nerves were sorely tested in 2022. In late August, when the extraordinarily early dry white wine harvest drew to a close in the Sauternes region, the grapes dedicated to the production of sweet white wines were perfectly ripe and healthy, with excellent yields. However, as the fine weather continued into September, the winegrowers became worried, since the dry, sunny days prevented the development of Botrytis cinerea. In this context, an initial pass was carried out in the vineyards during the second half of September to collect the raisined grapes that would not be affected by noble rot. A spell of wet weather set in on September 24th. While this facilitated the quick, even development of Botrytis cinerea, it failed to provide the concentration needed to produce fine sweet white wines. The fear of a total loss of the harvest was on all winegrowers’ minds and, as in previous vintages, they used various coping strategies. Some estates decided to collect the grapes in early October when they were not yet perfectly botrytised, to ensure sufficient production levels, while others decided to take a gamble and wait for favourable weather conditions.
By a stroke of luck, from mid-October onwards, the return to warmer temperatures and, above all, an intense easterly wind concentrated the grapes quickly and evenly. The harvesting of superb, botrytised grapes became widespread in mid-October, constituting the lion’s share of the 2022 sweet white wine vintage, both in terms of quality and quantity. The grapes were perfectly ripe, low in acidity, and quickly reached extraordinarily high sugar levels, making picking more urgent. A final pass took place in late October in the earliest plots, yielding lower quantities.
As another challenging growing season drew to a close and nearly three months after the first dry white wine grapes were picked, the harvest was complete, with production volumes varying depending on the strategy chosen, yet higher overall compared to previous vintages (with an average yield of 15 hL/ha for the Sauternes appellation). The fermentation of the grape must, sometimes particularly high in sugar yet pure and highly promising, could finally begin.
Good dry white wines, remarkably rich sweet white wines and, on both banks, extraordinary red wines, which are concentrated, yet surprisingly well-balanced
One man’s loss is another man’s gain and the weather conditions were, in theory, significantly less favourable in 2022 than in 2021. The overall lower acidity of the grapes, due to the hot summer temperatures, led to a particularly early harvest. Nevertheless, in this context, the nature of the terroirs played a key role and the finest plots, especially those planted on clay and clay-limestone soils, produced surprisingly good dry white wines. The Sauvignon Blancs are fruity, soft, and clear-cut, with citrus and tropical fruit aromas that are sure to win over those who usually do not like their strong varietal character. The Sémillons, sometimes flabby and bitter on second-rate terroirs, developed intense peach and apricot notes. The best ones are flavoursome and well-balanced, with a long aftertaste.
Given the conditions described above and the diverse strategies adopted, the 2022 sweet white wines were very good overall, yet showed some variation both in style and volumes produced. The first batches, made from raisined grapes or those picked in early October, added complexity and freshness to the blend when added in small proportions, but were not suitable for producing great sweet white wines. In contrast, the estates that chose to wait were able to harvest grape musts of unprecedented depth and richness, producing outstanding wines. They are low in acidity, but well-balanced with intense flavours and should age extremely well, like previous great vintages.
The result of a growing season marked by unusual weather conditions and following a 2021 vintage full of contrasts, 2022 Bordeaux red wines are highly anticipated among trend-setters, buyers and consumers, even before their presentation en primeur. There is talk in Bordeaux of an exceptional vintage, which everyone loves to compare to such and such glory of the past. Let’s leave this difficult task to the experienced tasters who will comment in detail on the wines of 2022. Meanwhile, we will keep our comments factual and save our superlatives for last year’s weather. Record-breaking heat, drought and sunshine over several months meant that, by the time the harvest arrived, it was difficult to evaluate the real quality potential of the vintage. One thing for certain, however, is the considerable difference in yields, which was not due, as is often the case, to damage from frost or mildew, but rather to the drought, which varied in intensity, depending on the type of soil, the age of the vines, the intensity of June rainfall, and viticultural choices. Ranging from low to very low on gravelly soils, the volumes produced on some clay-limestone soils in the Libourne region were perfectly satisfactory. Another fact is that the berries were generally very small, even more so than in 2010, particularly for Cabernet Sauvignon, as a direct consequence of the dry conditions during their formation and development. This characteristic had to be taken into account by winemakers, since excessive extraction was likely to produce unbalanced wines. In addition, when the grapes were put into vat, the total acidity level was sometimes worryingly low. However, as is often the case, it naturally increased during alcoholic fermentation to reach more standard values. Winemakers’ experience of previous hot vintages was, therefore, beneficial, discouraging them from acidifying the must, which would have irrevocably upset the balance of flavours in the red wines.
At the start of ageing and in general, the 2022 fine red Bordeaux wines appear to be particularly successful overall and even exceptional in many cases. Despite the extreme weather conditions, the 2022 vintage actually benefited from rather favourable conditions at key stages in the growth cycle and during ripening. Of course, as is always the case, it is best not to generalise, but to consider each appellation, and even each estate, individually. Some fairly acute, yet fortunately marginal, cases of water stress were observed on extremely well-drained soils and in young vines, resulting in delayed ripening, defoliation, and shrivelled berries.
The Merlots from the finest terroirs, particularly clay-limestone soils, are outstanding. They are irresistibly charming and classy: fruity yet not overripe and smooth yet well-balanced. Echoing the comments made about the 2020 vintage, its surprising success in a year marked by historically hot, dry weather challenged certain theories or statements suggesting that this grape variety was outdated in Bordeaux. On the finest soils, and provided that viticultural practices are adapted accordingly, Merlot is completely capable of producing remarkable wines. As has been the case for several vintages now, Cabernet Franc is also a great success. Its aromatic intensity adds an extra touch to the final blend, while its characteristic texture, demanding perfect ripeness, contributes to the wines’ freshness and balance. The success of Petit Verdot in a dry vintage such as 2022 is particularly down to the nature of the soil. In the absence[CO1] of excessive water stress, it gives the wines a spicy touch and characteristic smoothness. Finally, Cabernet Sauvignon, which Bordeaux winegrowers have fought so hard in the past to pick at optimum ripeness, continues to benefit from the hotter, drier conditions of vintages over the past decade. Its late-ripening character and the fact that it is often planted in well-drained soils has exposed it to excessive water stress in certain cases. Nevertheless, the finest terroirs produced impressive wines, with a powerful tannic structure, no signs of austerity, and an easygoing character, while remaining highly distinguished.
Despite the extreme weather, the 2022 vintage appears to have produced surprisingly well-balanced, harmonious wines, which are tannic yet fleshy, while preserving the freshness and brilliance typical of fine Bordeaux wines. As always, they will reveal their full potential with age, but at this stage they seem particularly promising and, quite simply, outstanding.
