When my wife and I first came to Bordeaux in (gulp) 1978 after a couple of years in the Napa Valley, I can remember being impressed with the perfumed elegance of Bordeaux wines, but disappointed with their lack of body and what I’ll call oomph. It didn’t take long, however, before I came to prefer the style.
All those years ago, the red wines of Bordeaux were mostly 11 and 11.5% alcohol by volume. The standard level then bumped up to 12% for quite some time (including a legally allowed variation of 0.5 percent with the amount stated on the label) before creeping ever upward.
What do we have now? 2022 Haut Brion is pushing 15%. Haut Brion! I cite this château specifically because, along with Margaux, it is held up as a paragon of class and balance. And this first growth is by no means an anomaly today.
What happened?
Is it more about viticulture and winemaking, or mostly due to global warming? Should consumer preferences also be held accountable?
Whatever the causes, it would be fair to generalize that there has been a fundamental shift in the make-up of fine Bordeaux, above and beyond the “Parkerization” phenomenon of a few years ago. Is 2022 an atypical vintage that shouldn’t necesdsarily be perceived as the way of the future? Possibly, but I think it is part of a continuing trend.
The question is, have things changed for better or worse?
Having just finished a marathon session of en primeur barrel tastings, I think that a nuanced answer is called for. Let’s take the example of Haut Brion. I can honestly say that the wine is, in fact, balanced and classy. It carries its (almost) 15% with distinction. And I encountered plenty of other wines like that during my forays into the wine country. Only a minority of wines I sampled were under 14%. One Pomerol was even 15.5% – nearly as high as unfortified wine can go… On the other hand, I was also pleased to see that Angélus, an estate I have long felt was somewhat heavy-handed with extraction and oak, has backpedalled and deliberately toned things down.
If you had asked me five years ago about a 15% Bordeaux, I’d have been pretty dismissive and turned up my nose. A wine for barbarians! Well, times have changed. Yes, although some 2022s are ponderous, heavy, overly rich, and even have an alcoholic burn on the finish, these are the exceptions. Bordeaux has simply adapted to a bunch of factors and achieved a new sort of balance. I had an in-depth look at this and mostly liked what I saw, or rather tasted.
There is increased talk on the Right Bank of planting more Cabernet, especially Cabernet Franc, to replace Merlot now that the former ripens more fully thanks to climate change. This would also tend to bring down sugar levels.
Simone Signouret’s memoirs were entitled “La nostaligie n’est plus ce qu’elle était”, which I think is a great name. Anyway, for those of us who regret old-style Bordeaux, I would say that our memories can be somewhat selective… A number of wines from yesteryear were thin, herbaceous, and featured not-so-welcome acidity. All was not sweetness and light.
How will today’s great wines age? Your guess is as good as mine, but I am reminded of a tasting of California wines I attended in Bordeaux. The owner of a famous château sipped a wine and exclaimed that it was truly delicious, but wasn’t it unnatural for it to taste so good just four years after the vintage? Surely something was wrong… This left me thinking well, no, nothing’s wrong at all, and that for great wine to taste so good so early on is an advantage rather than a shortcoming. Some of my English friends may disagree, but ageworthiness is not a measure of quality in my book. Balance is. And if a fine balance can be achieved earlier, I say so much the better. Many of the 2022s are – a little – low in acidity so maybe they won’t be ones for the very long haul. But the vintage is a good one and I am not disappointed with it, nor worried about the future of Bordeaux.
It takes a while to produce accurate statistics about a new vintage, and the Bordeaux University report is eagerly awaited by the wine world. Here is this year’s, describing the 2022 growing season.
Institute of Vine and Wine Sciences of Bordeaux University, Oenological Research Unit
When it comes to assessing the 2022 vintage in the Bordeaux vineyards, it is important to distinguish the general climatic context from its impact on the quality of the wines. Extreme weather conditions, both in terms of high temperatures and low precipitation, as well as their consequences, unfortunately highlighted the reality of climate change and gave rise to serious concerns regarding the future of our planet. This report simply aims to shed light on the weather conditions and growing season over the course of the year, and the characteristics of the resulting wines, without hiding or minimising these concerns. However, after a 2021 vintage full of contrasts, we cannot deny ourselves the pleasure of declaring that, even this early in the ageing process, the wines produced in 2022 already seem quite exceptional and remarkable!
Considering the unprecedented weather conditions last year, we shall skip the usual introduction to this vintage report, reviewing the five prerequisites for a great red wine vintage in Bordeaux. These prerequisites were met in 2022 and will be mentioned later on in this report. After a slightly drier winter than usual, several cool nights in March resulted in bud break occurring as expected for the time of year and later than in 2021. Thanks to the delayed growth cycle, frost in early April caused significantly less damage in the vineyards compared to 2021, although yields were impacted in localised areas. April was the only month of the year that recorded near-average temperatures, slowing down vine growth. However, summery conditions set in from May onwards with daytime temperatures already exceeding 30°C. Vine growth accelerated from its previously average pace, and took on the characteristics of an early vintage. Flowering, beginning in mid-May, was quick and even, with few signs of coulure (shot berries) or millerandage (abnormal fruit set). Winegrowers’ nerves were once again put to the test during the second half of the month, due to violent storms. Hail damage, which was quite severe in some cases, fortunately remained localised. June once again saw high temperatures, with the first heatwave of the year, and was the only month in 2022 to record above-average rainfall. Precipitation, mainly during storms in the second half of the month, varied significantly from one region to the next, without significantly increasing the threat of vine diseases. The rainfall strongly impacted how the vines coped with the summer drought, depending on local variations in intensity. The hot weather continued, and even intensified, with a second heatwave in July. Around the same time, water stress set in, slowing grape development. The early character of the vintage was confirmed, with the berries beginning to change colour from the second half of July, while vine growth had already stopped. This chronology of events was highly propitious to the quality of the red wine grapes. The progress of véraison (colour change) depended mostly on the type of soil and water reserves after rainfall in June: while good overall, it was sometimes slow in the best-drained soils. The first signs of scorching were observed in late July and vineyard practices were adapted accordingly, particularly leaf thinning, which turned out to be particularly important. The month of August was once again hot and dry, while overnight temperatures remained reasonably cool. A few showers fell, without any notable impact on vegetative growth or the size of the berries, which remained particularly small. These conditions were conducive to the ripening of the red wine grapes, particularly the accumulation of phenolic compounds. The first red wine grapes were picked in early September, and weather conditions during the harvest made it possible for winegrowers to pick each grape variety at optimum ripeness, without fear of dilution or rot.
Hot, dry vintages are generally not ideal for white wine grapes. While the high summer temperatures actually resulted in low acidity and high sugar levels, the June rainfall nevertheless helped to preserve a certain freshness and above all, unexpected aromatic potential, especially on clay and clay-limestone soils with high water reserves. The white wine grapes were harvested historically early in perfect condition, thus avoiding the high temperatures in late August and early September, and their overall quality is good.
Sweet white wine producers’ nerves were once again put to the test in 2022. While the grapes were already ripe and perfectly healthy from mid-August onwards, drought conditions prevented the development of Botrytis cinerea. The first grapes, concentrated by raisining, were picked during the second half of September, but were considered unsuitable for the premium blends of sweet white wines. Long-awaited rainfall finally arrived at the end of the month, triggering the rapid development of Botryitis cinerea. Unfortunately, the fine weather, which had lasted so long, failed to return. It took the winegrowers a lot of nerve to wait for sufficient concentration, at the risk of losing their entire crop. The desired conditions were reached rather abruptly in mid-October, thanks to the return of warmer weather and a providential easterly wind. Estates that chose to wait patiently were rewarded and hurried to pick grapes with remarkable richness and purity, giving personality, balance, and depth to the 2022 fine sweet white wines.
A fairly dry winter and a frosty start to spring resulted in bud break occurring at an average date
Autumn was dry (-51 mm in October and November) and cool (-2.5 °C in October and November), followed by a mild, wet winter, particularly in December (+0.5°C), with rainfall 54 mm above average. January and February were dry and sunny (Table I). January temperatures oscillated between almost springlike conditions (similar to New Year’s Day) and frequent spells of frost in late January, with overall monthly temperatures remaining close to normal for the time of year. Warmer temperatures in February meant that 2022 was the 4th year running to record milder than average temperatures during this month (1981-2000). Temperatures fell below 0°C on only 6 days.
In March, a series of low-pressure systems at the start of the month gradually gave way to springlike conditions. Overall temperatures were one to two degrees above average, despite mediocre sunshine for the first two weeks (Table I) and several frosts under clear skies after March 20th. Low rainfall during the month led to cumulative precipitation in winter 2021-2022 being slightly below average.
These conditions delayed the onset of bud break. Bud break began in localised areas at the end of March and intensified during the first week of April, but rather unevenly depending on the sector.
Sunshine (hours)
Rainfall (mm)
Average minimum temp. (°C)
Average maximum temp. (°C)
2022
1991-2010 average
2022
1981-2010 average
2022
1981-2010 average
2022
1981-2010 average
January
135
96
40
87
1.9
3.1
10
10.0
February
125
115
49
71
5.1
3.3
14.2
11.7
March
156
170
35
65
7.2
5.4
16.3
15.1
April
176
182
64
78
8.1
7.4
18
17.3
May
284
217
19
80
13.1
11.0
25
21.2
June
247
239
100
62
16.2
14.1
27.5
24.5
July
350
249
3
50
17.4
15.8
31
26.9
August
204
241
26
56
18.8
15.7
31.8
27.1
September
231
203
39
84
14.2
12.9
25.8
24.0
October
124
147
57
93
14.7
10.4
23.8
19.4
Development of phenological ripeness in 2022 compared to the past 11 years (Data from SRAL and ISVV)
April frost struck again
April began with two spells of frost between the 2nd and 5th, then again during the night of the 10th. In 2022, frost struck the vineyards at earlier stages in the vine’s development, with local variations, unlike in 2021, when it occurred later and was more severe. The damage was therefore more difficult to evaluate, and also varied greatly depending on the stage of bud break and the implementation of frost-protection systems.
After a spell of fairly wintry weather, warmer conditions set in on the 10th and lasted throughout the month, with temperatures close to normal. Rainfall, concentrated between April 6th and 10th, was sometimes heavy, yet remained below average, accentuating the winter water deficit (Table I).
These conditions slowed down vine growth until the middle of the month, delaying the emergence of secondary buds in plots affected by frost. In plots unaffected by frost, vine growth was also slow at the start of the month before accelerating from mid-April onwards, thanks to above-average temperatures. At this stage, vine growth was comparable to the ten-year average.
A warm, dry May, conducive to vine growth, and quick, even flowering
Springlike conditions in late April gave way to summery weather in May. The first hot spell of the year was observed between May 8th and 22nd, with daytime highs 4.3°C above average and several days recording temperatures above 30°C . It was the warmest May since 1950. Consequently, thunderstorms broke out between May 15th and 24th, sometimes accompanied by hail. The resulting damage was extremely localised. The water deficit nevertheless remained significant (Table I) and cumulative rainfall was very uneven throughout the vineyards (up to 60 mm in La Brède (source: CA33)). With only 4 days of rainfall in the Bordeaux region in May, there were, on average, 5 to 10 fewer days of rainfall than usual.
These weather conditions were propitious to vine growth, with the phenological stages developing rapidly and weekly growth reaching up to 30 centimetres (source: BSV), resulting in an early vintage.
The first flowers appeared in mid-May, two weeks later than in 2021 (Table II). Flowering was quick and even with mid-flowering observed during the last ten days of May. Favourable weather conditions with no signs of coulure or millerandage meant that the first prerequisite for a great vintage, i.e. quick, even flowering, was fulfilled.
Mid-flowering and mid-véraison dates in 2022 compared to the past 11 years and the 20-year average
Table II
Period
Mid-flowering
Mid-véraison
2000-2020
4 June
6 August
2011
17 May
21 July
2012
11 June
12 August
2013
18 June
22 August
2014
7 June
13 August
2015
5 June
6 August
2016
11 June
7 August
2017
30 May
30 July
2018
3 June
4 August
2019
4 June
9 August
2020
26 May
1 August
2021
10 June
11 August
2022
23 May
28 July
A hot, stormy start to summer after fruit set maintained early vine growth and partially reconstituted water reserves in the soil. A second heatwave without rainfall was conducive to early véraison.
The hot weather in May intensified in June. June 2022, the fourth hottest since 1947, was particularly remarkable for the number of days with temperatures above 30°C, as well as the earliness and intensity of the heatwave.
After a hot spell in the middle of June (16th to 18th ), several storms broke out between the 17th and 26th, accompanied by heavy rainfall for the first time in five months. These intense rainy spells were accompanied by localised hail, in Pessac Léognan on the 18th and in the Médoc on the 20th, causing variable damage.
At this stage,with vegetative growth in full swing, the berries benefited from both the heat and rainfall. Their early phenological development during flowering was thus preserved and bunch closure was observed in the earliest plots before the end of the month.
July was also hot and dry with abundant sunshine (Table I, ). After the early heatwave in June, a second hot spell set in around the middle of the month. Temperatures were very high, sometimes above 35°C, and the lack of rainfall significantly slowed down berry growth. The first signs of notable water stress were observed from mid-July onwards in plots planted on shallow soils, while vines grown on less well-drained soils benefited from the welcome rainfall in June.
The berries stopped growing at this stage, which partially explains their small size at harvest. Véraison began on July 20th , getting off to a slow start before accelerating towards the end of the month (Table II). It was largely dependent on June rainfall and varied significantly from one sector to the next. Overall, véraison was quick and even, although interrupted in plots planted on particularly well-drained or shallow soils, as well as on the youngest vines.
The first signs of scorching appeared around that time. Foliage management, particularly reducing leaf thinning, was key to success in this vintage, by preventing the berries from shrivelling.
Therefore, a stop to vegetative growth before véraison, the third prerequisite for a perfect red wine vintage, occurred earlier than usual, favouring even véraison in the sectors which benefited from June rainfall. However, in certain particularly well-drained and shallow soils, water stress set in too early and severely in localised areas, leading to scorching and interrupted véraison.
A hot, dry end to summer. Ideal weather conditions allowed winegrowers to wait patiently for the optimum time to pick.
In the majority of plots in our sector, véraison was complete by August 15th. Temperatures at this stage were close to the seasonal average. A few rainy spells, which had no major impact on the grapes, triggered ripening in mid-August, without significantly increasing berry size.
The hot, dry conditions continued into late August and throughout September). Winegrowers could therefore wait patiently for the ideal time to pick without worrying about the threat of vine diseases.
Due to the most extreme temperatures and drought conditions recorded in Bordeaux since the late 19th century, the Sauvignon Blanc grape-picking started historically early, on August 9th in the Sauternes region, becoming widespread throughout the white wine vineyards in the following week.
Excessively high temperatures during the growth cycle, accompanied by very early water stress, often leads to fears of a lack of aromas and acidity in dry white wines. However, rather surprisingly given the weather conditions during the 2022 vintage, the Sauvignon Blanc grapes were indeed low in acidity, close to levels in 2015 and 2016, yet maintained their promising aromatic potential, while their sugar content was comparable to 2020. In terroirs with good water reserves (clay and clay-limestone), the grape skins remained crunchy until the harvest, with no signs of over-ripening, with excellent concentration on tasting.
Storms in late June, bringing up to 130 mm rainfall in localised areas, significantly helped to maintain balance in the white wine grapes, conducive to the production of fine dry white wines.
Picking for Sémillon grapes, which were also very early-ripening, began on August 13th. The grapes were sweet, yet not excessively so, with good concentration. Less sensitive to excessive temperatures than Sauvignon Blanc, their aromas were intense, evoking white fruit and apricot notes, and contributing to the delicious, smooth character of the blended wines.
Table III
Harvest dates for dry white wine grapes in the Bordeaux region in 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020 and 2021
Sauvignon Blanc
Sémillon
2013
10 – 22 September
21 – 25 September
2014
6 – 12 September
12 – 20 September
2015
28 August – 6 September
5 – 11 September
2016
2 – 15 September
8 – 18 September
2017
16 August – 7 September
1 – 15 September
2018
23 August – 10 September
5 – 15 September
2019
26 August – 19 September
6 – 23 September
2020
14 August – 5 September
27 August – 10 September
2021
28 August – 18 September
5 – 24 September
2022
9 August – 29 September
13 August – 2 September
Table IV
Composition of Sauvignon Blanc grapes from a plot with limestone soil in the Graves region in 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017.2018, 2019, 2020, and 2021
Initial analyses of the grape juice showed that the sugar content was higher compared to the same stage in 2021. In fact, as of late August, all the plots in our sector showed a Potential Alcohol by Volume above 13% (Table V).
Table V
Variations in sugar content and acidity of red wine grapes during ripening in reference plots
Weight per 100 berries (g)
Sugar (g/L)
TA (g/L H2SO4)
Total anthocyanins (mg/L)
2022
22/8 Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon
12392
208184
2.94.2
17511745
05/9 Merlot12/9Cabernet Sauvignon
12295
240232
2.43.0
19802421
2021 31/8 Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon
175 130
183 175
5.9 8.4
1359 1783
27/9 Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon
176 138
205 205
3.3 4.0
1780 2138
2020
31/8 Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon
154 106
216 201
2.6 3.4
1803 2038
07/9 Merlot 14/9 Cabernet Sauvignon
151 99
229 235
2.6 3.4
1835 2416
201926/8 Merlot
119
199
4.7
1160
Cabernet Sauvignon
99
177
7
16/9 Merlot
127
244
2.7
1780
30/9 Cabernet Sauvignon
105
233
3.3
1901
2018
27/8 Merlot
142
214
3.3
1656
Cabernet Sauvignon
116
193
4.9
1442
10/9 Merlot 24/9 Cabernet Sauvignon
143 126
233 230
2.5 2.8
1749 1826
Two weeks later, in early September, the Merlots reached particularly high sugar levels, among the highest recorded in the last ten years (240 g/L) (Table V).
Already fairly low at the start of sampling, the level of acidity decreased regularly during ripening, reaching some of the lowest levels recorded over the past ten vintages .
At harvest, the average pH of the Merlots was 3.5, compared to 3.4 for the Cabernet Sauvignons. These values were relatively low and unexpected, given the particularly low acidity levels recorded in the grapes at harvest.
In early September, still under ideal conditions (with a total absence of Botrytis cinerea), the level of phenolic ripeness was comparable to or already higher than the highest levels recorded in recent vintages (Table V).
From the final days of August onwards, the Merlot grapes were incredibly fruity. No herbaceous notes were observed during tasting, as later confirmed by particularly low methoxypyrazine (IBMP) levels (< 2 ng/L in late August) in the grape juice.
The first Merlot grapes were thus harvested as early as the first week of September, under extremely favourable conditions. The Merlot harvest was relatively rapid everywhere in Gironde. Picking on the plots in our sector finished before mid-September.
Meanwhile, the Cabernet Sauvignon grapes continued ripening throughout September with no threat of vine diseases thanks to prolonged fine weather.
As for the Merlots, the sugar content at harvest was one of the highest recorded in recent years . The total acidity of the grapes was the lowest observed over the past 12 years, which is unprecedented for a late-ripening grape variety.
The total anthocyanin content regularly increased during ripening, reaching remarkably high levels at harvest. On the plots in our sector, they were comparable to the highest levels ever recorded
Total anthocyanin content (mg/L) of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes in reference plots in 2022, compared with four vintages from the previous decade
Harvesting of the Cabernet Sauvignon grapes began in mid-September and lasted until early October. The excellent condition of the grapes was a source of relief for winegrowers, who could wait patiently for the right time to pick based on organoleptic criteria. As for the Merlots, the IBMP levels were already negligible (around 2 ng/L) as of September 5th and the complexity of the fruity aromas was clearly noticeable from mid-September, when picking began.
The weather conditions in summer 2022 meant that winegrowers could determine the harvest dates according to organoleptic analyses without needing to worry about the condition of the grapes. The Merlot grapes, harvested in perfect condition, presented remarkable analyses at harvest time. Fine weather during September also allowed the Cabernet Sauvignon grapes to finish ripening under optimal conditions.
Undoubtedly, the fourth and fifth prerequisites for a very great vintage were fully met in 2022.
After a late start, Botrytis cinerea developed very quickly
Once again, sweet white wine producers’ nerves were sorely tested in 2022. In late August, when the extraordinarily early dry white wine harvest drew to a close in the Sauternes region, the grapes dedicated to the production of sweet white wines were perfectly ripe and healthy, with excellent yields. However, as the fine weather continued into September, the winegrowers became worried, since the dry, sunny days prevented the development of Botrytis cinerea. In this context, an initial pass was carried out in the vineyards during the second half of September to collect the raisined grapes that would not be affected by noble rot. A spell of wet weather set in on September 24th. While this facilitated the quick, even development of Botrytis cinerea, it failed to provide the concentration needed to produce fine sweet white wines. The fear of a total loss of the harvest was on all winegrowers’ minds and, as in previous vintages, they used various coping strategies. Some estates decided to collect the grapes in early October when they were not yet perfectly botrytised, to ensure sufficient production levels, while others decided to take a gamble and wait for favourable weather conditions.
By a stroke of luck, from mid-October onwards, the return to warmer temperatures and, above all, an intense easterly wind concentrated the grapes quickly and evenly. The harvesting of superb, botrytised grapes became widespread in mid-October, constituting the lion’s share of the 2022 sweet white wine vintage, both in terms of quality and quantity. The grapes were perfectly ripe, low in acidity, and quickly reached extraordinarily high sugar levels, making picking more urgent. A final pass took place in late October in the earliest plots, yielding lower quantities.
As another challenging growing season drew to a close and nearly three months after the first dry white wine grapes were picked, the harvest was complete, with production volumes varying depending on the strategy chosen, yet higher overall compared to previous vintages (with an average yield of 15 hL/ha for the Sauternes appellation). The fermentation of the grape must, sometimes particularly high in sugar yet pure and highly promising, could finally begin.
Good dry white wines, remarkably rich sweet white wines and, on both banks, extraordinary red wines, which are concentrated, yet surprisingly well-balanced
One man’s loss is another man’s gain and the weather conditions were, in theory, significantly less favourable in 2022 than in 2021. The overall lower acidity of the grapes, due to the hot summer temperatures, led to a particularly early harvest. Nevertheless, in this context, the nature of the terroirs played a key role and the finest plots, especially those planted on clay and clay-limestone soils, produced surprisingly good dry white wines. The Sauvignon Blancs are fruity, soft, and clear-cut, with citrus and tropical fruit aromas that are sure to win over those who usually do not like their strong varietal character. The Sémillons, sometimes flabby and bitter on second-rate terroirs, developed intense peach and apricot notes. The best ones are flavoursome and well-balanced, with a long aftertaste.
Given the conditions described above and the diverse strategies adopted, the 2022 sweet white wines were very good overall, yet showed some variation both in style and volumes produced. The first batches, made from raisined grapes or those picked in early October, added complexity and freshness to the blend when added in small proportions, but were not suitable for producing great sweet white wines. In contrast, the estates that chose to wait were able to harvest grape musts of unprecedented depth and richness, producing outstanding wines. They are low in acidity, but well-balanced with intense flavours and should age extremely well, like previous great vintages.
The result of a growing season marked by unusual weather conditions and following a 2021 vintage full of contrasts, 2022 Bordeaux red wines are highly anticipated among trend-setters, buyers and consumers, even before their presentation en primeur. There is talk in Bordeaux of an exceptional vintage, which everyone loves to compare to such and such glory of the past. Let’s leave this difficult task to the experienced tasters who will comment in detail on the wines of 2022. Meanwhile, we will keep our comments factual and save our superlatives for last year’s weather. Record-breaking heat, drought and sunshine over several months meant that, by the time the harvest arrived, it was difficult to evaluate the real quality potential of the vintage. One thing for certain, however, is the considerable difference in yields, which was not due, as is often the case, to damage from frost or mildew, but rather to the drought, which varied in intensity, depending on the type of soil, the age of the vines, the intensity of June rainfall, and viticultural choices. Ranging from low to very low on gravelly soils, the volumes produced on some clay-limestone soils in the Libourne region were perfectly satisfactory. Another fact is that the berries were generally very small, even more so than in 2010, particularly for Cabernet Sauvignon, as a direct consequence of the dry conditions during their formation and development. This characteristic had to be taken into account by winemakers, since excessive extraction was likely to produce unbalanced wines. In addition, when the grapes were put into vat, the total acidity level was sometimes worryingly low. However, as is often the case, it naturally increased during alcoholic fermentation to reach more standard values. Winemakers’ experience of previous hot vintages was, therefore, beneficial, discouraging them from acidifying the must, which would have irrevocably upset the balance of flavours in the red wines.
At the start of ageing and in general, the 2022 fine red Bordeaux wines appear to be particularly successful overall and even exceptional in many cases. Despite the extreme weather conditions, the 2022 vintage actually benefited from rather favourable conditions at key stages in the growth cycle and during ripening. Of course, as is always the case, it is best not to generalise, but to consider each appellation, and even each estate, individually. Some fairly acute, yet fortunately marginal, cases of water stress were observed on extremely well-drained soils and in young vines, resulting in delayed ripening, defoliation, and shrivelled berries.
The Merlots from the finest terroirs, particularly clay-limestone soils, are outstanding. They are irresistibly charming and classy: fruity yet not overripe and smooth yet well-balanced. Echoing the comments made about the 2020 vintage, its surprising success in a year marked by historically hot, dry weather challenged certain theories or statements suggesting that this grape variety was outdated in Bordeaux. On the finest soils, and provided that viticultural practices are adapted accordingly, Merlot is completely capable of producing remarkable wines. As has been the case for several vintages now, Cabernet FrancFranc is also a great success. Its aromatic intensity adds an extra touch to the final blend, while its characteristic texture, demanding perfect ripeness, contributes to the wines’ freshness and balance. The success of Petit Verdot in a dry vintage such as 2022 is particularly down to the nature of the soil. In the absence of excessive water stress, it gives the wines a spicy touch and characteristic smoothness. Finally, Cabernet Sauvignon, which Bordeaux winegrowers have fought so hard in the past to pick at optimum ripeness, continues to benefit from the hotter, drier conditions of vintages over the past decade. Its late-ripening character and the fact that it is often planted in well-drained soils has exposed it to excessive water stress in certain cases. Nevertheless, the finest terroirs produced impressive wines, with a powerful tannic structure, no signs of austerity, and an easygoing character, while remaining highly distinguished.
Despite the extreme weather, the 2022 vintage appears to have produced surprisingly well-balanced, harmonious wines, which are tannic yet fleshy, while preserving the freshness and brilliance typical of fine Bordeaux wines. As always, they will reveal their full potential with age, but at this stage they seem particularly promising and, quite simply, outstanding.
[CO1]Coquille dans le fançais – il faudrait remplacer “En absence de” par “En l’absence de”
The 2022 vintage in Bordeaux
Pr. Laurence GENY, Elodie GUITTARD, Dr. Valérie LAVIGNE and Pr. Axel MARCHAL
Institute of Vine and Wine Sciences of Bordeaux University, Oenological Research Unit
in conjunction with
N. Alvarez, C. Baz, V. Teninge, L. Riquier and A. Rabot
When it comes to assessing the 2022 vintage in the Bordeaux vineyards, it is important to distinguish the general climatic context from its impact on the quality of the wines. Extreme weather conditions, both in terms of high temperatures and low precipitation, as well as their consequences, unfortunately highlighted the reality of climate change and gave rise to serious concerns regarding the future of our planet. This report simply aims to shed light on the weather conditions and growing season over the course of the year, and the characteristics of the resulting wines, without hiding or minimising these concerns. However, after a 2021 vintage full of contrasts, we cannot deny ourselves the pleasure of declaring that, even this early in the ageing process, the wines produced in 2022 already seem quite exceptional and remarkable!
Considering the unprecedented weather conditions last year, we shall skip the usual introduction to this vintage report, reviewing the five prerequisites for a great red wine vintage in Bordeaux. These prerequisites were met in 2022 and will be mentioned later on in this report. After a slightly drier winter than usual, several cool nights in March resulted in bud break occurring as expected for the time of year and later than in 2021. Thanks to the delayed growth cycle, frost in early April caused significantly less damage in the vineyards compared to 2021, although yields were impacted in localised areas. April was the only month of the year that recorded near-average temperatures, slowing down vine growth. However, summery conditions set in from May onwards with daytime temperatures already exceeding 30°C. Vine growth accelerated from its previously average pace, and took on the characteristics of an early vintage. Flowering, beginning in mid-May, was quick and even, with few signs of coulure (shot berries) or millerandage (abnormal fruit set). Winegrowers’ nerves were once again put to the test during the second half of the month, due to violent storms. Hail damage, which was quite severe in some cases, fortunately remained localised. June once again saw high temperatures, with the first heatwave of the year, and was the only month in 2022 to record above-average rainfall. Precipitation, mainly during storms in the second half of the month, varied significantly from one region to the next, without significantly increasing the threat of vine diseases. The rainfall strongly impacted how the vines coped with the summer drought, depending on local variations in intensity. The hot weather continued, and even intensified, with a second heatwave in July. Around the same time, water stress set in, slowing grape development. The early character of the vintage was confirmed, with the berries beginning to change colour from the second half of July, while vine growth had already stopped. This chronology of events was highly propitious to the quality of the red wine grapes. The progress of véraison (colour change) depended mostly on the type of soil and water reserves after rainfall in June: while good overall, it was sometimes slow in the best-drained soils. The first signs of scorching were observed in late July and vineyard practices were adapted accordingly, particularly leaf thinning, which turned out to be particularly important. The month of August was once again hot and dry, while overnight temperatures remained reasonably cool. A few showers fell, without any notable impact on vegetative growth or the size of the berries, which remained particularly small. These conditions were conducive to the ripening of the red wine grapes, particularly the accumulation of phenolic compounds. The first red wine grapes were picked in early September, and weather conditions during the harvest made it possible for winegrowers to pick each grape variety at optimum ripeness, without fear of dilution or rot.
Hot, dry vintages are generally not ideal for white wine grapes. While the high summer temperatures actually resulted in low acidity and high sugar levels, the June rainfall nevertheless helped to preserve a certain freshness and above all, unexpected aromatic potential, especially on clay and clay-limestone soils with high water reserves. The white wine grapes were harvested historically early in perfect condition, thus avoiding the high temperatures in late August and early September, and their overall quality is good.
Sweet white wine producers’ nerves were once again put to the test in 2022. While the grapes were already ripe and perfectly healthy from mid-August onwards, drought conditions prevented the development of Botrytis cinerea. The first grapes, concentrated by raisining, were picked during the second half of September, but were considered unsuitable for the premium blends of sweet white wines. Long-awaited rainfall finally arrived at the end of the month, triggering the rapid development of Botryitis cinerea. Unfortunately, the fine weather, which had lasted so long, failed to return. It took the winegrowers a lot of nerve to wait for sufficient concentration, at the risk of losing their entire crop. The desired conditions were reached rather abruptly in mid-October, thanks to the return of warmer weather and a providential easterly wind. Estates that chose to wait patiently were rewarded and hurried to pick grapes with remarkable richness and purity, giving personality, balance, and depth to the 2022 fine sweet white wines.
A fairly dry winter and a frosty start to spring resulted in bud break occurring at an average date
Autumn was dry (-51 mm in October and November) and cool (-2.5 °C in October and November), followed by a mild, wet winter, particularly in December (+0.5°C), with rainfall 54 mm above average. January and February were dry and sunny (Table I). January temperatures oscillated between almost springlike conditions (similar to New Year’s Day) and frequent spells of frost in late January, with overall monthly temperatures remaining close to normal for the time of year. Warmer temperatures in February meant that 2022 was the 4th year running to record milder than average temperatures during this month (1981-2000). Temperatures fell below 0°C on only 6 days.
In March, a series of low-pressure systems at the start of the month gradually gave way to springlike conditions. Overall temperatures were one to two degrees above average, despite mediocre sunshine for the first two weeks (Table I) and several frosts under clear skies after March 20th. Low rainfall during the month led to cumulative precipitation in winter 2021-2022 being slightly below average.
These conditions delayed the onset of bud break. Bud break began in localised areas at the end of March and intensified during the first week of April, but rather unevenly depending on the sector).
Maximum temperatures (°C) Minimum temperatures (°C)
Average maximum and minimum temperatures in the winter of 2022, compared to 1981-2010
Data from Mérignac (Météo France)
Cumulative winter rainfall (mm) from December 2021 to March 2022, compared to the past 10 years and the 20-year average
Data from Mérignac (Météo France)
Table I
Weather data for 2022, rainfall and temperature (compared to the 1981-2010 average) and hours of sunshine (compared to the 1991-2010 average)
Data from Mérignac (Météo France)
Sunshine (hours)
Rainfall (mm)
Average minimum temp. (°C)
Average maximum temp. (°C)
2022
1991-2010 average
2022
1981-2010 average
2022
1981-2010 average
2022
1981-2010 average
January
135
96
40
87
1.9
3.1
10
10.0
February
125
115
49
71
5.1
3.3
14.2
11.7
March
156
170
35
65
7.2
5.4
16.3
15.1
April
176
182
64
78
8.1
7.4
18
17.3
May
284
217
19
80
13.1
11.0
25
21.2
June
247
239
100
62
16.2
14.1
27.5
24.5
July
350
249
3
50
17.4
15.8
31
26.9
August
204
241
26
56
18.8
15.7
31.8
27.1
September
231
203
39
84
14.2
12.9
25.8
24.0
October
124
147
57
93
14.7
10.4
23.8
19.4
Development of phenological ripeness in 2022 compared to the past 11 years (Data from SRAL and ISVV)
April frost struck again
April began with two spells of frost between the 2nd and 5th, then again during the night of the 10th. In 2022, frost struck the vineyards at earlier stages in the vine’s development, with local variations, unlike in 2021, when it occurred later and was more severe. The damage was therefore more difficult to evaluate, and also varied greatly depending on the stage of bud break and the implementation of frost-protection systems.
After a spell of fairly wintry weather, warmer conditions set in on the 10th and lasted throughout the month, with temperatures close to normal. Rainfall, concentrated between April 6th and 10th, was sometimes heavy, yet remained below average, accentuating the winter water deficit (Table I).
These conditions slowed down vine growth until the middle of the month, delaying the emergence of secondary buds in plots affected by frost. In plots unaffected by frost, vine growth was also slow at the start of the month before accelerating from mid-April onwards, thanks to above-average temperatures. At this stage, vine growth was comparable to the ten-year average.
Daily variations in temperature and precipitation in April 2022
Data from Mérignac (Météo France)
A warm, dry May, conducive to vine growth, and quick, even flowering
Springlike conditions in late April gave way to summery weather in May. The first hot spell of the year was observed between May 8th and 22nd, with daytime highs 4.3°C above average and several days recording temperatures above 30°C ). It was the warmest May since 1950. Consequently, thunderstorms broke out between May 15th and 24th, sometimes accompanied by hail. The resulting damage was extremely localised. The water deficit nevertheless remained significant (Table I) and cumulative rainfall was very uneven throughout the vineyards (up to 60 mm in La Brède (source: CA33)). With only 4 days of rainfall in the Bordeaux region in May, there were, on average, 5 to 10 fewer days of rainfall than usual.
These weather conditions were propitious to vine growth, with the phenological stages developing rapidly and weekly growth reaching up to 30 centimetres (source: BSV), resulting in an early vintage.
The first flowers appeared in mid-May, two weeks later than in 2021 (Table II). Flowering was quick and even with mid-flowering observed during the last ten days of May. Favourable weather conditions with no signs of coulure or millerandage meant that the first prerequisite for a great vintage, i.e. quick, even flowering, was fulfilled.
Table II
Mid-flowering and mid-véraison dates in 2022 compared to the past 11 years and the 20-year average
Period
Mid-flowering
Mid-véraison
2000-2020
4 June
6 August
2011
17 May
21 July
2012
11 June
12 August
2013
18 June
22 August
2014
7 June
13 August
2015
5 June
6 August
2016
11 June
7 August
2017
30 May
30 July
2018
3 June
4 August
2019
4 June
9 August
2020
26 May
1 August
2021
10 June
11 August
2022
23 May
28 July
Flowering
Daily variations in temperature and precipitation in May and June 2022
Data from Mérignac (Météo France)
A hot, stormy start to summer after fruit set maintained early vine growth and partially reconstituted water reserves in the soil. A second heatwave without rainfall was conducive to early véraison.
The hot weather in May intensified in June. June 2022, the fourth hottest since 1947, was particularly remarkable for the number of days with temperatures above 30°C, as well as the earliness and intensity of the heatwave.
After a hot spell in the middle of June (16th to 18th ), several storms broke out between the 17th and 26th, accompanied by heavy rainfall for the first time in five months. These intense rainy spells were accompanied by localised hail, in Pessac Léognan on the 18th and in the Médoc on the 20th, causing variable damage.
At this stage,with vegetative growth in full swing, the berries benefited from both the heat and rainfall. Their early phenological development during flowering was thus preserved and bunch closure was observed in the earliest plots before the end of the month.
July was also hot and dry with abundant sunshine. After the early heatwave in June, a second hot spell set in around the middle of the month. Temperatures were very high, sometimes above 35°C, and the lack of rainfall significantly slowed down berry growth. The first signs of notable water stress were observed from mid-July onwards in plots planted on shallow soils, while vines grown on less well-drained soils benefited from the welcome rainfall in June.
The berries stopped growing at this stage, which partially explains their small size at harvest. Véraison began on July 20th , getting off to a slow start before accelerating towards the end of the month (Table II). It was largely dependent on June rainfall and varied significantly from one sector to the next. Overall, véraison was quick and even, although interrupted in plots planted on particularly well-drained or shallow soils, as well as on the youngest vines.
The first signs of scorching appeared around that time. Foliage management, particularly reducing leaf thinning, was key to success in this vintage, by preventing the berries from shrivelling.
Daily variations in temperature and precipitation in July 2022
Data from Mérignac (Météo France)
Therefore, a stop to vegetative growth before véraison, the third prerequisite for a perfect red wine vintage, occurred earlier than usual, favouring even véraison in the sectors which benefited from June rainfall. However, in certain particularly well-drained and shallow soils, water stress set in too early and severely in localised areas, leading to scorching and interrupted véraison.
A hot, dry end to summer. Ideal weather conditions allowed winegrowers to wait patiently for the optimum time to pick.
In the majority of plots in our sector, véraison was complete by August 15th. Temperatures at this stage were close to the seasonal average). A few rainy spells, which had no major impact on the grapes, triggered ripening in mid-August, without significantly increasing berry size.
The hot, dry conditions continued into late August and throughout September. Winegrowers could therefore wait patiently for the ideal time to pick without worrying about the threat of vine diseases.
AUGUST SEPTEMBER
Daily variations in temperature and precipitation in August and September 2022
Data from Mérignac (Météo France)
Due to the most extreme temperatures and drought conditions recorded in Bordeaux since the late 19th century, the Sauvignon Blanc grape-picking started historically early, on August 9th in the Sauternes region, becoming widespread throughout the white wine vineyards in the following week.
Excessively high temperatures during the growth cycle, accompanied by very early water stress, often leads to fears of a lack of aromas and acidity in dry white wines. However, rather surprisingly given the weather conditions during the 2022 vintage, the Sauvignon Blanc grapes were indeed low in acidity, close to levels in 2015 and 2016, yet maintained their promising aromatic potential, while their sugar content was comparable to 2020. In terroirs with good water reserves (clay and clay-limestone), the grape skins remained crunchy until the harvest, with no signs of over-ripening, with excellent concentration on tasting.
Storms in late June, bringing up to 130 mm rainfall in localised areas, significantly helped to maintain balance in the white wine grapes, conducive to the production of fine dry white wines.
Picking for Sémillon grapes, which were also very early-ripening, began on August 13th. The grapes were sweet, yet not excessively so, with good concentration. Less sensitive to excessive temperatures than Sauvignon Blanc, their aromas were intense, evoking white fruit and apricot notes, and contributing to the delicious, smooth character of the blended wines.
Table III
Harvest dates for dry white wine grapes in the Bordeaux region in 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020 and 2021
Sauvignon Blanc
Sémillon
2013
10 – 22 September
21 – 25 September
2014
6 – 12 September
12 – 20 September
2015
28 August – 6 September
5 – 11 September
2016
2 – 15 September
8 – 18 September
2017
16 August – 7 September
1 – 15 September
2018
23 August – 10 September
5 – 15 September
2019
26 August – 19 September
6 – 23 September
2020
14 August – 5 September
27 August – 10 September
2021
28 August – 18 September
5 – 24 September
2022
9 August – 29 September
13 August – 2 September
Table IV
Composition of Sauvignon Blanc grapes from a plot with limestone soil in the Graves region in 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017.2018, 2019, 2020, and 2021
Initial analyses of the grape juice showed that the sugar content was higher compared to the same stage in 2021. In fact, as of late August, all the plots in our sector showed a Potential Alcohol by Volume above 13% (Table V).
Table V
Variations in sugar content and acidity of red wine grapes during ripening in reference plots
Weight per 100 berries (g)
Sugar (g/L)
TA (g/L H2SO4)
Total anthocyanins (mg/L)
2022
22/8 Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon
12392
208184
2.94.2
17511745
05/9 Merlot12/9Cabernet Sauvignon
12295
240232
2.43.0
19802421
2021 31/8 Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon
175 130
183 175
5.9 8.4
1359 1783
27/9 Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon
176 138
205 205
3.3 4.0
1780 2138
2020
31/8 Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon
154 106
216 201
2.6 3.4
1803 2038
07/9 Merlot 14/9 Cabernet Sauvignon
151 99
229 235
2.6 3.4
1835 2416
201926/8 Merlot
119
199
4.7
1160
Cabernet Sauvignon
99
177
7
16/9 Merlot
127
244
2.7
1780
30/9 Cabernet Sauvignon
105
233
3.3
1901
2018
27/8 Merlot
142
214
3.3
1656
Cabernet Sauvignon
116
193
4.9
1442
10/9 Merlot 24/9 Cabernet Sauvignon
143 126
233 230
2.5 2.8
1749 1826
Two weeks later, in early September, the Merlots reached particularly high sugar levels, among the highest recorded in the last ten years (240 g/L) (Table V).
Already fairly low at the start of sampling, the level of acidity decreased regularly during ripening, reaching some of the lowest levels recorded over the past ten vintages.
At harvest, the average pH of the Merlots was 3.5, compared to 3.4 for the Cabernet Sauvignons. These values were relatively low and unexpected, given the particularly low acidity levels recorded in the grapes at harvest.
In early September, still under ideal conditions (with a total absence of Botrytis cinerea), the level of phenolic ripeness was comparable to or already higher than the highest levels recorded in recent vintages (Table V).
From the final days of August onwards, the Merlot grapes were incredibly fruity. No herbaceous notes were observed during tasting, as later confirmed by particularly low methoxypyrazine (IBMP) levels (< 2 ng/L in late August) in the grape juice.
The first Merlot grapes were thus harvested as early as the first week of September, under extremely favourable conditions. The Merlot harvest was relatively rapid everywhere in Gironde. Picking on the plots in our sector finished before mid-September.
Meanwhile, the Cabernet Sauvignon grapes continued ripening throughout September with no threat of vine diseases thanks to prolonged fine weather.
As for the Merlots, the sugar content at harvest was one of the highest recorded in recent years. The total acidity of the grapes was the lowest observed over the past 12 years, which is unprecedented for a late-ripening grape variety.
The total anthocyanin content regularly increased during ripening, reaching remarkably high levels at harvest. On the plots in our sector, they were comparable to the highest levels ever recorded.
Harvesting of the Cabernet Sauvignon grapes began in mid-September and lasted until early October. The excellent condition of the grapes was a source of relief for winegrowers, who could wait patiently for the right time to pick based on organoleptic criteria. As for the Merlots, the IBMP levels were already negligible (around 2 ng/L) as of September 5th and the complexity of the fruity aromas was clearly noticeable from mid-September, when picking began.
The weather conditions in summer 2022 meant that winegrowers could determine the harvest dates according to organoleptic analyses without needing to worry about the condition of the grapes. The Merlot grapes, harvested in perfect condition, presented remarkable analyses at harvest time. Fine weather during September also allowed the Cabernet Sauvignon grapes to finish ripening under optimal conditions.
Undoubtedly, the fourth and fifth prerequisites for a very great vintage were fully met in 2022.
After a late start, Botrytis cinerea developed very quickly
Once again, sweet white wine producers’ nerves were sorely tested in 2022. In late August, when the extraordinarily early dry white wine harvest drew to a close in the Sauternes region, the grapes dedicated to the production of sweet white wines were perfectly ripe and healthy, with excellent yields. However, as the fine weather continued into September, the winegrowers became worried, since the dry, sunny days prevented the development of Botrytis cinerea. In this context, an initial pass was carried out in the vineyards during the second half of September to collect the raisined grapes that would not be affected by noble rot. A spell of wet weather set in on September 24th. While this facilitated the quick, even development of Botrytis cinerea, it failed to provide the concentration needed to produce fine sweet white wines. The fear of a total loss of the harvest was on all winegrowers’ minds and, as in previous vintages, they used various coping strategies. Some estates decided to collect the grapes in early October when they were not yet perfectly botrytised, to ensure sufficient production levels, while others decided to take a gamble and wait for favourable weather conditions.
By a stroke of luck, from mid-October onwards, the return to warmer temperatures and, above all, an intense easterly wind concentrated the grapes quickly and evenly. The harvesting of superb, botrytised grapes became widespread in mid-October, constituting the lion’s share of the 2022 sweet white wine vintage, both in terms of quality and quantity. The grapes were perfectly ripe, low in acidity, and quickly reached extraordinarily high sugar levels, making picking more urgent. A final pass took place in late October in the earliest plots, yielding lower quantities.
As another challenging growing season drew to a close and nearly three months after the first dry white wine grapes were picked, the harvest was complete, with production volumes varying depending on the strategy chosen, yet higher overall compared to previous vintages (with an average yield of 15 hL/ha for the Sauternes appellation). The fermentation of the grape must, sometimes particularly high in sugar yet pure and highly promising, could finally begin.
Good dry white wines, remarkably rich sweet white wines and, on both banks, extraordinary red wines, which are concentrated, yet surprisingly well-balanced
One man’s loss is another man’s gain and the weather conditions were, in theory, significantly less favourable in 2022 than in 2021. The overall lower acidity of the grapes, due to the hot summer temperatures, led to a particularly early harvest. Nevertheless, in this context, the nature of the terroirs played a key role and the finest plots, especially those planted on clay and clay-limestone soils, produced surprisingly good dry white wines. The Sauvignon Blancs are fruity, soft, and clear-cut, with citrus and tropical fruit aromas that are sure to win over those who usually do not like their strong varietal character. The Sémillons, sometimes flabby and bitter on second-rate terroirs, developed intense peach and apricot notes. The best ones are flavoursome and well-balanced, with a long aftertaste.
Given the conditions described above and the diverse strategies adopted, the 2022 sweet white wines were very good overall, yet showed some variation both in style and volumes produced. The first batches, made from raisined grapes or those picked in early October, added complexity and freshness to the blend when added in small proportions, but were not suitable for producing great sweet white wines. In contrast, the estates that chose to wait were able to harvest grape musts of unprecedented depth and richness, producing outstanding wines. They are low in acidity, but well-balanced with intense flavours and should age extremely well, like previous great vintages.
The result of a growing season marked by unusual weather conditions and following a 2021 vintage full of contrasts, 2022 Bordeaux red wines are highly anticipated among trend-setters, buyers and consumers, even before their presentation en primeur. There is talk in Bordeaux of an exceptional vintage, which everyone loves to compare to such and such glory of the past. Let’s leave this difficult task to the experienced tasters who will comment in detail on the wines of 2022. Meanwhile, we will keep our comments factual and save our superlatives for last year’s weather. Record-breaking heat, drought and sunshine over several months meant that, by the time the harvest arrived, it was difficult to evaluate the real quality potential of the vintage. One thing for certain, however, is the considerable difference in yields, which was not due, as is often the case, to damage from frost or mildew, but rather to the drought, which varied in intensity, depending on the type of soil, the age of the vines, the intensity of June rainfall, and viticultural choices. Ranging from low to very low on gravelly soils, the volumes produced on some clay-limestone soils in the Libourne region were perfectly satisfactory. Another fact is that the berries were generally very small, even more so than in 2010, particularly for Cabernet Sauvignon, as a direct consequence of the dry conditions during their formation and development. This characteristic had to be taken into account by winemakers, since excessive extraction was likely to produce unbalanced wines. In addition, when the grapes were put into vat, the total acidity level was sometimes worryingly low. However, as is often the case, it naturally increased during alcoholic fermentation to reach more standard values. Winemakers’ experience of previous hot vintages was, therefore, beneficial, discouraging them from acidifying the must, which would have irrevocably upset the balance of flavours in the red wines.
At the start of ageing and in general, the 2022 fine red Bordeaux wines appear to be particularly successful overall and even exceptional in many cases. Despite the extreme weather conditions, the 2022 vintage actually benefited from rather favourable conditions at key stages in the growth cycle and during ripening. Of course, as is always the case, it is best not to generalise, but to consider each appellation, and even each estate, individually. Some fairly acute, yet fortunately marginal, cases of water stress were observed on extremely well-drained soils and in young vines, resulting in delayed ripening, defoliation, and shrivelled berries.
The Merlots from the finest terroirs, particularly clay-limestone soils, are outstanding. They are irresistibly charming and classy: fruity yet not overripe and smooth yet well-balanced. Echoing the comments made about the 2020 vintage, its surprising success in a year marked by historically hot, dry weather challenged certain theories or statements suggesting that this grape variety was outdated in Bordeaux. On the finest soils, and provided that viticultural practices are adapted accordingly, Merlot is completely capable of producing remarkable wines. As has been the case for several vintages now, Cabernet Franc is also a great success. Its aromatic intensity adds an extra touch to the final blend, while its characteristic texture, demanding perfect ripeness, contributes to the wines’ freshness and balance. The success of Petit Verdot in a dry vintage such as 2022 is particularly down to the nature of the soil. In the absence[CO1] of excessive water stress, it gives the wines a spicy touch and characteristic smoothness. Finally, Cabernet Sauvignon, which Bordeaux winegrowers have fought so hard in the past to pick at optimum ripeness, continues to benefit from the hotter, drier conditions of vintages over the past decade. Its late-ripening character and the fact that it is often planted in well-drained soils has exposed it to excessive water stress in certain cases. Nevertheless, the finest terroirs produced impressive wines, with a powerful tannic structure, no signs of austerity, and an easygoing character, while remaining highly distinguished.
Despite the extreme weather, the 2022 vintage appears to have produced surprisingly well-balanced, harmonious wines, which are tannic yet fleshy, while preserving the freshness and brilliance typical of fine Bordeaux wines. As always, they will reveal their full potential with age, but at this stage they seem particularly promising and, quite simply, outstanding.
