Domaine de Courteillac, Bx. Sup.

The Holy Grail? Well, not quite, but finding the Bordeaux or Bordeaux Supérieur that knocks your socks off is a labor of love. I had heard that Domaine de Courteillac was worth investigating, so I gave the 2010 vintage a spin.
This 28-hectare estate located in Ruch, 14 km south of Castillon-la-Bataille, is owned by Dominique Meneret, former owner of Château Larmande, a Saint Emilion grand cru classé, and founder of the négociant firm of Ballande & Meneret, which he has since sold.  The grape varieties are 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Cabernet Franc. The wine is aged in oak: ½ in new barrels, and ½ in barrels used for one previous vintage. Stéphane Derenecourt is consulting enologist.

00011409_normal
The 2010 is very dark and deep in color, more black than red.
The nose is soft and not very expressive, but features cherry-vanilla overtones. Still, it is a bit dumb, with some alcohol showing.
The wine starts out smooth and enveloping on the palate, but then goes into a dry, relatively short aftertaste. There’s a somewhat heavy mouthfeel and the 14.5% alc./vol. makes itself felt.
The grail will have to wait…
Will this wine improve markedly with age? I think not.
Don’t get me wrong: 2010 Domaine de Courteillac was a pleasure to drink with lunch midweek. But I had the impression that M. Meneret was trying a little too hard. The wine’s strength and oak influence are heavy-handed in light of the wine’s intrinsic flavor profile. I think the same wine made in a lighter, more easy-going style would have been more successful. I’ll be interested to tast future vintages of Domaine de Courteillac to see where it’s going.

4 Bordeaux wines with dinner: 2 classified, 2 not

1999 Château Haut Mayne – I was unfamiliar with this 5-hectare estate in Preignac, but had a bottle of the 99 vintage in the cellar. Friends from Quebec were over to dinner, so I thought I would introduce them to the Bordeaux custom of serving sweet white wine as an aperitif, rather than at the end of the meal with dessert. 1999 was, on the whole, a middling vintage in Sauternes and this wine was certainly not one of the better ones I have encountered…. It was fairly pale and tea-colored, looking older than its age. The nose was fresh, but far more overripe than botrytised. In fact, if served blind, I’d have taken it for a Jurançon, with its pear and gooseberry aromas. Nothing botytritized about it at all. The palate was a let-down to the extent that it started out sweet and luscious, but went nowhere afterward. Definitely your top-heavy, cloying sort Sauternes, without the acidity or touch of bitterness and minerality on the finish to provide balance. Little complexity. Definitely not a success in this vintage. I see that the mix of grape varieties is 90% Sémillon and 10% Sauvignon Blanc. Maybe this needs to be changed to give wine more muscle tone…

2010 Château Chantegrive, Graves blanc, Cuvée Caroline – Chantegrive is a large (nearly 80 hectare) estate located in Podensac in the southern Graves. They make about twice as much red as they do white. They also produce an AOC Cérons.  Chantegrive is a success story achieved by the late Henri Lévêque, a wine broker and well-known Bordeaux personality. The wines are well-distributed in local restaurants and I have many times enjoyed both the red and white wines. This 2010 cuvée prestige white is made from equal parts of Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc. It is straw-yellow in color and has a lemony and slightly medicinal bouquet. On the whole, the nose is rather subdued and a touch smoky. The palate is frankly disappointing to me: angular and acidic. I’ve had better bottles of this and prefer to think that this departure from a proven track record is just a blip.

2004 Château Saint Pierre, Saint Julien – 2004 Bordeaux is receiving much good press at the moment. I decided to open this one up for my guests because is not one of the most commonly found great growths. 2004 Saint Pierre had a very dark core, but the browning rim made it look older than its age.  The nose was redolent of caramel, beeswax on a parquet floor, forest floor (sorry for all the floors…), and understated black fruit. The wine was a little thin and dilute, but had interesting cedar and chocolate overtones and a quality I can only describe as ferrous. Solid rather than exciting and fully ready to drink. I have enjoyed Saint Pierre very much in the past, considering it one of the best values among the crus classés. I fell in love with the 2009 and have a few bottles in the cellar. The 2004 is OK in light of the vintage.

2000 Château d’Issan, Margaux  – I’ve been opening up my lesser and mid-range Bordeaux from the 2000 vintage lately and almost all of them have been ready to go. So, seeing as I had several bottles of the 2000 d’Issan, I figured I would check out how a more up-market wine was doing. The wine had a lovely deep, dark color with medium bricking on the rim. The nose was absolutely lovely, corresponding to that mythical, but elusive feminine Margaux quality one hears cited but actually encounters far less often… Ethereal blackcurrant jelly overtones as well as hints of pencil shavings and truffle. In fact, this is not the first time that I have seen similarities between a Margaux and a fine Pomerol. Anyway, the wine starts out beautifully generous and smooth although it falls down somewhat (tad weak and dilute) on the middle palate. However, it rebounds on the finish with strong tannin. This imparts a little dryness – some of which seems due to oak. So, this 2000 d’Issan is a fine glass of wine, but the balance is not quite there. By the time the tannin evens out, I wonder if that impression of dryness might not increase, and the fruit diminish. Still, this wine has loads of class, and a first class sweet bouquet.

 

INTRODUCTION – SEPTEMBER 2014

I know what you’re thinking: “Oh no, not another Bordeaux wine site, who on earth needs that?”… In reality, though, there are precious few sites focusing on the wines of the Gironde out there! I am assistant manager of one, www.bordeauxwinenthusiasts.com, but Bordeaux is usually just one region out of many.

Bordeaux takes a lot of knocks these days. A “fox and the grapes syndrome” has set in. The price increases in the great growths over the past few years have made them unattainable for many consumers – so it has become trendy to say that the wines are not worth it, that Bordeaux is “old hat”, and that is best left to the likes of stockbrokers and the decrepit bourgeoisie! Of course, it is also claimed that “modern” Bordeaux is over-extracted, over-oaked, Parkerized, and not nearly as good as it once was…

The fact is that I’m as put off as anyone by the recent price increases of the crus classés. But these wines represent only 5% of Bordeaux! Of the remaining 95%, to be fair, there is a certain amount of dross: thin weedy wines selling at bargain basement prices. But there are also numerous gems and a full spectrum of terroirs and styles

The media love to discover and highlight estates in the Lubéron or the Languedoc or the Loire Valley, but rarely enthuse about non-classified growths from Bordeaux. Despite the region’s 9,000 châteaux, Bordeaux is perceived as a known entity, so journalists don’t often go there – except to see the famous names…

The main purpose of my blog is to write about these lower-profile estates, to give a face to châteaux eclipsed by the high and mighty.
Based in Bordeaux, I also intend to write about what it’s like to visit and live here, to speak about the people behind the labels, and in my own little way to breathe new life into Bordeaux’s somewhat fossilized image.

Château Haut Macô, Côtes de Bourg

All of us have certain “go to” wines – reasonably priced, dependable, that don’t need to age forever –  the kind of wine you can open up mid-week and that will make you glad to be alive. Simple and enjoyable, just what it should be. Haut-Macô is one such wine…
The 50 hectare estate in Tauriac (Côtes de Bourg) is owned and managed by brother and sister Anne and Hugues Mallet, the 4th generation of their family at the estate. Their father, Bernard, was one of the movers and shakers in the appellation, which has had to contend with somewhat of an image problem. That’s because many people put Bourg wines on the same plane as AOC Bordeaux when, in fact, they can be significantly better.
There has not been any white wine produced at Haut-Macô for years. The red is produced from 60% Merlot, 27% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Malbec.

I met Anne Mallet on a sunny August morning and we tasted through recent vintages. I had bought some of the 2009 two years ago and it did well in the line-up running from 2009 to 2012. However, I liked the 2010 even better because of the quality of the tannin and greater ageing potential.
The château also makes a Cuvée Jean-Bernard (combining the names of two brothers from the preceding generation). As much as I like the regular cuvee, I found the Jean-Bernard to be somewhat dry and oaky on the aftertaste. The 2009 cuvée Jean-Bernard was nevertheless the best of the bunch, and promising.

You often hear that Bordeaux has become too expensive. Well, I have the invoice right in front of me. I purchased 6 bottles of 2010 Haut-Macô for 37.08 euros. At that price, and for this sort of quality, I think Bordeaux can hold its own against wines from anywhere else in the world.
And that’s one the main reasons why I started this blog.

Château Turcaud, Entre-Deux-Mers

There are two special reasons why I have a soft spot for Château Turcaud. The first is that Turcaud is the subject of the very first château profile on my new blog in September 2014.

The other, and more important, is that I have long enjoyed Turcaud’s white wines, which I see as the epitome of solid, dependable, good-value Bordeaux blanc. So, it was a treat to visit the estate in July 2014 with a friend who makes wine in Valais, Switzerland.

We were warmly welcomed by Stéphane and Isabelle Le May, and Isabelle’s father, Maurice Robert who created the estate in 1973.

The 50 hectares of vineyards are located in the commune of La Sauve Majeure in the Entre Deux Mers region, about 30 k from Bordeaux. I might add that the town’s abbey has been listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO – http://la-sauve-majeure.monuments-nationaux.fr/fr/
Furthermore, the Maison des Vins de L’Entre-Deux-Mers is also located in La Sauve http://www.entredeuxmers.com/gastronomie/viticulteurs/maison-des-vins-de-lentre-deux-mers.html

This is in the heart of the “other” Bordeaux that produces affordable, delicious, everyday wines, some of which are very good indeed. However, the region is rarely visited by tourists – despite the beautiful rolling countryside and noteworthy historic monuments –  http://www.entredeuxmers.com/patrimoine/abbayes-et-moulins.html

 

 

(Click to enlarge photos)

The Turcaud Entre-Deux-Mers is made from 60% Sauvignon Blanc, 38% Sémillon, and 2% Muscadelle. The grapes undergo skin contact and are fermented and aged on the lees. I tasted the 2013 and 2012 and was particularly taken with the former, and was not really surprised to see that it had won a gold medal at the Paris Agricultural Show. This is all that Bordeaux Blanc should be but, alas, is all too rarely… Without meaning to detract from the wine’s quality, I can safely say that this is a vibrant, fruity, upfront quaffing wine to drink in its youth. An uncomplicated, thirst-quenching, pure pleasure of a wine. Price: at the estate : 5.4 euros.

The prestige cuvée is called La Cuvée Majeure. It consists of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Sémillon from the more gravelly part of the vineyard.  This is a more serious, ageworthy wine.

Although Turcaud produces twice as much white wine as red, I was smitten with the 2012 Cuvée Majeure rouge, a definite cut above the regular red wine. This Bordeaux Supérieur is made from 65% Merlot and 35% Cabernet Sauvignon. This very round, attractive wine with seemingly low acidity has good tannin, and medium-term ageing potential. At 8.50 euros a bottle (cellar door price) you cannot go wrong. This is just the sort of wine to enjoy young, decant a couple of hours before the meal, and enjoy immensely. You might even try serving it blind to your wineloving friends and see what they think…

Visiting Bordeaux

The following information and advice is intended for people who, although they may be familiar with the wines of Bordeaux, don’t necessarily know how to go about visiting the region.

The first thing to consider when going to the Bordeaux wine country is its sheer size and complexity. There are some 9,000 châteaux, and the distances between regions can be enormous. It takes nearly 3 hours by car from the northern tip of the Médoc to the far side of Saint-Emilion…

It is almost always preferable to make appointments in advance (and mandatory for the most famous estates), and to be aware of travel time between châteaux. A tour and tasting usually lasts about an hour, sometimes an hour and a half. The better-known châteaux request payment ranging from 8 to 20 euros. Tours are usually available in English at the most famous châteaux, but this should not be automatically assumed when visiting less exalted ones. Generally speaking, visitors sample two wines: the grand vin and the second wine. These should be tasted, but not be swallowed, i.e. you may wish to practice your spitting skills!
It is not done to leave a tip.

Like everywhere else in rural France, life comes to a halt between 12 and 2 for the sacred lunch hour, so a restaurant stop is a good idea. This usually involves a 3 (or more) course menu, and quick snacks may be difficult to find. Pace yourself accordingly for your first afternoon appointment.

Like any wine-producing region, food, of course, plays an important role in Bordeaux. La cuisine bordelaise tends to be simple and wholesome rather than elaborate. For instance, one of the finest dishes is entrecôte (boneless rib steak) grilled over vine cuttings and slathered with a mixture of bone marrow, parsley, and shallot. This is divine with a good red wine! Surprisingly, although the sea is not far, meat is served far more often than fish in Bordeaux. If you like oysters, however, the ones from Arcachon Bay and the nearby Charentes region are well worth discovering. Other classic dishes include foie gras, grilled magret de canard (duck breast), and duck confit. Virtually no cheeses are produced in the Bordeaux Restaurants in Bordeaux, including the wine country, feature varying degrees of wine expertise. The wines are frequently very young and, alas, cost 3 to 4 times the retail price… Many restaurants do not provide decanters. I therefore suggest ordering wines from the lesser regions, and hope that these have been well-selected, or that the waiter knows enough to make a knowledgeable recommendation.

The sweet white wines of Bordeaux are often enjoyed as an aperitif, which runs against the grain for English speakers, who often only see them only as dessert wines. However, many restaurants offer Sauternes by the glass, and this is a golden opportunity to experiment.

Unfortunately, it is difficult to visit the wine country on week-ends, unless by prior appointment.  However, many appellations, including the most prestigious ones, have a Portes Ouvertes weekend once a year where up to fifty châteaux welcome the public. You can obtain a schedule of these from the Bordeaux Tourist Office, which also offers guided bus tours (leaving from the city center) to the wine country all year long.
If you are unsure about setting up your own itinerary, finding your way around, or hesitant about drinking and driving, several options are available:

The following professional guides are all native English speakers with an in-depth understanding of Bordeaux:
http://dmjwineworks.com/tours.php
http://www.insidertasting.com/insidertasting/Tours.html
http://www.france-wine-chateaux.com/history.html

The following licensed tour operators are specialized in wine:
http://decantertours.com/
http://www.bordeauxexcellence.com/
http://www.bordeauxsaveurs.com/fr
http://www.bordovino.com/
http://bordeaux-river-cruise.com/8-wine-cruise

Bordeaux is France’s 5th largest city. The city proper has 250,000 inhabitants, and the urban area has more like 850,000.  This raises the issue of where to stay. While accommodation in a hotel, chambre d’hôte (guest house) or gîte (short-term rental) in the wine country may be less expensive and provide a bucolic setting, Bordeaux has a couple of major advantages: it is centrally located and not totally dead once the sun sets. In addition, Bordeaux is a tourist attraction in its own right with beautiful 18th century architecture, and was designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.

Like many major cities around the world, however, traffic can be a problem, and you should allow for this when making appointments. Meanwhile, the city’s public transportation system is pretty good, and the Bordelais are quite proud of their modern tram.

The best wine shops in the city (L’Intendant, Bordeaux Magnum, and the Vinothèque) are all within a two minute walk of each other, near the Grand Théâtre. As you will see, however, the prices for the greatest wines are no lower than they are abroad…

A rule of thumb is that genuine interaction and the possibility of one-on-one conversations during a château visit are inversely proportional to the château’s reputation. For instance, Mouton-Rothschild receives thousands of visitors a year and has a small army of tour guides. While it is only normal that first time visitors to Bordeaux should wish to go here and the other top estates, please bear in mind that a more meaningful and authentic experience awaits you in the Côtes de Blaye, southern Graves, Lalande-de-Pomerol, etc.

How to make appointments: This is best done months in advance at the top-notch châteaux. Contacting them by e-mail, in English, is fine. They like to know who you are, so a thumb-nail biography and your background with regard to Bordeaux will help (flattery will get you everywhere…).

Obviously, there are times of year when tours are difficult to arrange: the vintage, the month of August, during the en primeur tastings in later March/early April, on weekends and, of course, on French public holidays.
There are numerous wine bars in the city of Bordeaux. Two deserve special mention: the CIVB wine bar, Cours du XXX Juillet, and Max Wine on 14 Cours de l’Intendance where you can taste châteaux up to and including first growths. Restaurants allowing you to bring your own wine are relatively rare, but La Tupina in Bordeaux and the Lion d’Or in Arcins (the Médoc) are well-known for this.

The Maison de la Qualité, located in Beychac-et-Cailhau on the road from Bordeaux to Libourne, is the headquarters of the Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur appellations. They have a small Disneyland-like attraction called Planète Bordeaux. This is of no great interest, but their boutique features an impressive selection and I always come away with a case or two of good affordable or downright cheap wines.
If you are on a tight schedule and only have time to visit one town during your stay, that should be Saint-Emilion. This charming medieval village is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and will even please travelling companions who are not into wine. One advantage of Saint-Emilion is the number of things you can do on foot. And you can go there from Bordeaux by bus or train. The Saint-Emilion Tourist Office will be glad point you towards châteaux to visit.
A trip to Bourg and Blaye is always a treat and there are Maisons du Vin in both towns. There is also a wonderful farmer’s market on Wednesday and Saturday mornings in Blaye, and the Citadel overlooking the broad Gironde Estuary is of considerable interest.

Visiting the Médoc is not really possible without a car unless, of course, you go on a guided tour. The Maison du Vin in Pauillac will be glad to arrange individual visits, including to great growth châteaux, for a modest fee.
Sauternes is one of the most attractive regions, scenically speaking, in Bordeaux. It is also one of the rare ones where you can always visit an estate or two on Sunday. The Tourist Office in Sauternes will provide all necessary information.
But there are a host of other places to discover outside these world-famous appellations: Castillon, the northern Médoc, Fronsac, the southern Graves, etc., etc.  My first ever blog posts were on estates in the Entre-Deux-Mers, whose rolling countryside and modestly priced wines are enhanced by the pleasure of going off the beaten track… In fact, the more your learn about Bordeaux, the more you will be tempted to go away from the name wines to find exciting discoveries – at a fraction of the cost.
There are various celebrations and fairs in the wine country, but none is as large or popular as the biennial Bordeaux Wine Festival, held in June in even-numbered years. The Union des Grands Crus organises the Week-end des Grands Crus annually in the month of May. Open to the public, this is a wonderful opportunity to taste some on the finest wines in Bordeaux and meet the winemakers.
I will be glad to answer any specific questions about visiting Bordeaux and the blog may, in the near future, include a forum for others to share their experiences.