Angludet N: Some unresolved vinification aromas, but refined Margaux magic there. P: Ripe fruit with an oaky aftertaste. Narrow spectrum of flavours, but good profile and acidity. Finish a little tough and dry at the present time. Good
Brane Cantenac N: Oak overlaying lead aromas P: Round, melts in the mouth. Fresh and natural. Develops well on the palate. Delightfully tangy. Good length. Fine compromise between modern and traditional styles. Very typical of its appellation. Great acidity. Brane is ascendant. Good plus
Cantenac Brown N: Pronounced sweet cherry aromas, along with ripe varietal Cabernet nuances. P: Mouth-watering and poised with fine-grained tannin. Very well-made. This château appears to be coming up in the world thanks to a change in ownership. Good plus
Dauzac N: Ripe cranberry nose with good oak and a classic profile. P: Raspberry with well-integrated oak and medium length. Fine balance with straightforward berry fruit and decent grip. A satisfasctory great growth in a good year, but not in the top tier. Good.
Desmirail N: More floral than fruity at this time. A little green. P: Good sappiness, but that greenness come through on the palate as well, accompanied by brambly fruit. Odd balance. OK
Giscours N: Lovely subtle nose with definite floral overtones along with ripe berry nuances. Not profound at this stage. P: Excellent ripe Cabernet (primary fruit) with refreshing acidity. Relatively long aftertaste and a slightly spirit side. Dependable. Good
Kirwan N: Licorice and spice. Very pure with a musky quality. P: Chewy mouth feel with oak, briar, and cherry flavors. Obviously needs time to become more focused, but there’s an intrinsic lack of balance meaning that this will never be one of the best of Margaux’s ten third growths. OK.
Lascombes N: Rich upfront fruit P: Something a little forced and artificial here, but nothing to actually detract from the wine. Change in ownership here and a new label harking back to the 19th century. We’ll see if this estate will improve in the next few vintages. Good.
Margaux N: Redolent of violet, cedar, and blackcurrant with subtle minty nuances. P: Impregnates the palate without brutalizing it. Wonderfully soft with superb tannin and a decidedly mineral aftertaste. Very good.
Marquis de Terme N: Assertive ripe berry aromas that seem more typical of the Northern Médoc. P: Good body. Fairly big wine. Solid, but lacks refinement. Dry finish that needs age to soften. Good.
Monbrison: N: Soft, perfumed, but muted. Good oak. Delicate and feminine. P: Caresses the palate. Not a big wine but shows all the class of a great Médoc. Such finesse! Melts in the mouth. I’ll be fascinated to see how this develops because from barrel it is ethereal and extremely classy. Good plus to very good
Palmer N: Pronounced wild berry aromas. P: Seems low in acid. Showing candied fruit and dark chocolate flavors. Slightly confected. Hiding its light under a bushel at present, but all the signs of a great wine in the making are there. It’s simply that this was not the ideal time to taste the wine. Nevertheless: Very good
Prieuré Lichine N: Truly lovely berry and berry blossom aromas. Almost Right Bank – or Burgundian – in its voluptuousness P: Spreads out beautifully on the palate. Without being modern in style, and if it were not for the lovely tannins on the aftertaste, I might not have taken this for a Bordeaux. Slick tannin. An estate on the up-and-up. Good plus
Rauzan Gassies N: Fruity, but simple. P: Good tannin reminiscent of tea. Well-constructed, but relatively short. More on a cru bourgeois level than a second growth one. Light on its feet, with good acidity, but lacks gravitas. OK
Rauzan Ségla N: Really very closed but fruit and chocolate notes lurking. P: Rich, mouthfilling, almost too big for a Margaux. Quite delicious and thirst-quenching even so with candied blackcurrant. Soft, pure, and juicy, wears its heart on its sleeve. Good plus.
du Tertre N: Combination of oak and fruit of medium intensity. Not very expressive at this point. P: Seems sharp and monolithic on the palate, without the estate’s customary elegance. The wine’s sappiness and magic overwhelmed for now by the oak. Some black olive notes on the aftertaste. The château was purchased last year by Les Grands Chais de France (the Helfrich family from Alsace) Good
Beychevelle N : Classic Médoc nose reminiscent of blackcurrant cordial. Good oak and shows great potential. P : Dynamic, with great acidity, and avoids any chunkiness. The terroir unquestionably comes through here with a medium-fine velvety texture on the finish. The oak is overly prominent at this stage, but there is clearly the stuffing for this to integrate over time. Altogether, this is a big wine, but one with a great deal of class. Lovely medley of candied fruit on the aftertaste. Good to very good.
Branaire Ducru N : Soft with a touch of cedar with underlying Médoc fruit P : Round, full, fresh Cabernet falvours with an elegant lift. Slightly dilute on the middle palate before going into a good fresh aftertaste of medium length. Somewhat chunky. No flaws here, but nothing special either. Good.
Ducru Beaucaillou N : Dense, subtle bouquet rather closed and a touch musty at this time. P : Much more expressive on the palate. Concentrated black fruit flavors with a flawless development on the palate, i.e. a great follow-through into a wonderful aftertaste. Roundness into a super classic finish. Unquestionably a great vin de garde. Very good.
Gruaud Larose N : Very closed at this time, but with aeration reveals attractive notes of Saint Julien terroir with dark fruit that will surely become more expressive with age. P : Really chunky – but not clunky! Big wine that falters a little on the middle palate, but rallies with a strong, very tannic aftertaste that needs time to soften. Good
Lagrange N : Bright berry fruit with a touch of caramel from the oak. Penetrating and a little spirity. Pure and primary, but promising. P : Great acidity with raspberry flavors. Not especially rich or long, but satisfying with a velvely tannic finish that is just a little short. Good
Léoville Barton N : Textbook nose with slightly cosmetic sweet cassis perfume. Superb bouquet. Just the right amount of oak. P: The austerity of Cabernet Sauvignon, overruled by ripe juicy fruit and a fine structure that somehow avoids rigidity. Long finish with a soft grip. Very good
Léoville Poyferré N : Ripe, deep, and full of promise with licorice nuances. P : Packed with fruit but maintains elegance and balance. Hedonistic, but stays within the framework of classic claret. Wonderful medium-long aftertaste. Superb Cabernet and an example for the New World. Good plus to very good.
Saint Pierre N : Deep, dark, underlying berry aromas that are rather simple at this stage. P : Natural fruit flavors not overshadowed by oak. Fresh acidity and good texture. An elegant rather than a strong wine to enjoy on the young side. Slight menthol overtones on the finish. Good.
Talbot N : Ripe Cabernet nose with a hint of mint and blackcurrant leaves along with some earthy notes and vigorous berry fruit. P : Fleshy, big, very juicy. An archetypal Saint Julien and a joy to lovers of this appellation. Medium-long textured finish. Delicious. Good to very good
PAUILLAC
d’Armailhac N : Fine bouquet redolent of cassis and cherry; P : Excellent fruit, but lacks focus at this stage. Some gas in the sample. Not the best time to taste the wine, but it deserves the benefit of the doubt in light of past track record and intrinsic underlying quality. Good.
Batailley N : Fine nose of blackcurrant and cherry. P : Excellent fruit, but the wine is unfocused at this time and the sample has a bit of gas. Knowing this wine, it definitely deserves the benefit of the doubt. (label in honor of Queen Elizabeth) Good.
Clerc Milon N : Discreet, closed-in, needs time. Some black pepper overtones. P : Forward, attractive, rich, bright, a delicious medley of red fruit. Soft for a Pauillac. Classy and will show well even quite young. Elegant sophisticated aftertaste. Good plus.
Croizet Bages N : Toasty oak and caramel, with muted red fruit. P : Much more expressive on the palate, with forest fruit, good body, and attractive follow-through. Solid performance for this wine that has often been criticized in the past. Good.
Duhart Milon N : Precise and well-defined, but closed. Underlying cassis and berry aromas. P : Medium body with some hardness to show that this is a serious wine, belying the initial impression of one that is too fluid and easy-going. Svelte, with velvety tannin on the classy finish. That having been said, this is too much on the slim side. OK.
Grand Puy Ducasse N : Pencil lead overtones with some subdued spice aromas. Really too closed to evaluate properly at this time. P : Narrow spectrum of flavors and with a simple linear development on the palate. Refreshing, but lacks richness and breadth. Pales in comparison with others. Slight weediness. OK
Grand Puy Lacoste N : Sweet, open, and fresh bouquet along with good oak and ethereal blackcurrant aromas. P : Faithful to château profile. Very unctuous, but not overly so. Tangy and appetizing. Great fruit and polished tannin on the long finish. Good plus
Haut Batailley N : Tad herbaceous, but also some dark chocolate and discreet black fruit. P : Sinewy and lively with loads of fruit. Should develop very well with age. Great aftertaste as well. Spreads out beautifully on the palate with blackcurrant, blackberry, and other black fruit flavors. Good plus.
Lafite Rothschild N : Lead and trademark violet aromas. P : Lots of juicy fruit and fine acidity. Fabulous potential. Medium heavy mouth feel with enough restraint and structure to show that this is a wine worth of serious ageing. Silky texture and flawless progression on the palate. Great length with a soft velvet aftertaste. The balance is such that this Lafite will be a joy very young, or in 50 years. On the whole, a feminine style. Very good
Lynch Bages N : Serious ripe berry (cassis) bouquet with a floral element. Ethereal brambly quality with some cedar aromas. P : Very mouthfulling, but remains elegant throughout. A superb Lynch Bages with lively acidity continuing into a very long aftertaste. High quality tannins conducive to the long haul. Quintessential Pauillac with a floral aspect (blossoms) reappearing on the tail end. Very good;
Lynch Moussas N : Sweet and simple bouquet. P : Starts out by melting in the mouth and then reveals lots of acidity. An old-fashioned style. Good, long, and refreshing with some toasty oak. Worth looking into this wine’s future development. Very fruity and austere in a good kind of way. Quite long aftertaste. Unexpected quality. Good plus.
Mouton Rothschild N : Rather closed, but in line with the superb aromas of classic Mouton. P : Big mouth feel with noticeable oak. Tremendous length. While the oak blurs the wine’s considerable fruitiness, that is not surprising since this vintage will take a good twenty years and more to come around. As fine as Cabernet gets in Pauillac. Undoubtedly one of the best 22s tasted. Superlative.
Pichon Baron N : Monumental with “old library” aromas P : Medium-heavy mouth feel. Brambly as usual with textured tannin. A masculine expression of Pauillac. Tannin coats the teeth and the wine features refreshing acidity. Velvety finish with a long aftertaste of black fruit along with minerality. Very good.
Pichon Comtesse N : Gorgeous seductive nose with berry and roast coffee bean overtones. P : Round, fresh, and delicious. Open, with a floral component and an altogether sensual flavor profile. Very good.
Pontet Canet N : Rather subdued at this stage, but showing hints of anise and violet. Slightly spirity along with notes of toasty oak. P : Fleshy and fresh, with a fine texture. Concentrated, strong tannin accompanied by candied fruit flavors, especially strawberry and blackcurrant. Resonant blackberry overtones. Strong, but elegant with a very long aftertaste. Very good.
SAINT-ESTÈPHE
Calon Ségur N: Unexpressive at this time, but classic aromas in the background waiting to emerge. P: Starts out very plus with plush tarry flavors and somewhat unrelenting, but classy tannin. Tightly wound and very well-structured. Extremely long aftertaste and a great future ahead. Good plus to very good.
Cos d’Estournel N: Ethereal fruit with seductive cherry and violet nuances. P: A toned-down more sublte wine compared to some past vintages of Cos and the terroir’s proximity with Lafite comes through more than ever here. Candied fruit there, but the wine is not confected. Fine velvety aftertaste. Classic. Very good
Cos Labory N: Very little oak influenced. Uncomplicated and unremarkable fruit aromas. P: A little rough, with harsh tannins and fairly acidic. Lacks finesse. Solid and vinous, but not much else there. It was just announced that Michel Reybier of Cos d’Estournel has just acquired the estate and I’m sure we will be hearing much more about it in the near future. OK
Haut Marbuzet N: Ripe fruit, but revealing little depth or complexity at this time. P: Sweet fruit flavors, especially raspberry coming through. Strong wine typical of its appellation and in no way overoaked or with a dry finish as in some past vintages. Good.
Meyney N: Closed at this time, but promising. P: Fresh with fine ripe fruit flavours. A crowd-pleasing sort of wine with high-quality textured tannin on the finish. The sort of wine that is very enjoyable young or old. I preferred this to cru classé Grand Puy Ducasse belonging to the same owners. Good.
Montrose N: Lovely subtle cherry-vanilla aromas combined with a touch of herbaceousness and a musk. P: A big wine with lots of oak. This shows every sign of a very promising future and will need years before all the components meld, but the intrinsic balance is clearly there. Rich, full-bodied, very promising wine. Very good.
Phélan Ségur N: Dark fruit aromas. Still rather closed. P: Lovely flavor profile. Starts out quite round and melts in the mouth then goes into mineral mode. Good acidity with oak in check. This wine’s recent fine record is maintained. Olive nuances on the aftertaste. Belies the merely “foursquare” and solid reputation of Saint-Estèphe thanks to its elegance. Grand cru level for sure. Good plus
When my wife and I first came to Bordeaux in (gulp) 1978 after a couple of years in the Napa Valley, I can remember being impressed with the perfumed elegance of Bordeaux wines, but disappointed with their lack of body and what I’ll call oomph. It didn’t take long, however, before I came to prefer the style.
All those years ago, the red wines of Bordeaux were mostly 11 and 11.5% alcohol by volume. The standard level then bumped up to 12% for quite some time (including a legally allowed variation of 0.5 percent with the amount stated on the label) before creeping ever upward.
What do we have now? 2022 Haut Brion is pushing 15%. Haut Brion! I cite this château specifically because, along with Margaux, it is held up as a paragon of class and balance. And this first growth is by no means an anomaly today.
What happened?
Is it more about viticulture and winemaking, or mostly due to global warming? Should consumer preferences also be held accountable?
Whatever the causes, it would be fair to generalize that there has been a fundamental shift in the make-up of fine Bordeaux, above and beyond the “Parkerization” phenomenon of a few years ago. Is 2022 an atypical vintage that shouldn’t necesdsarily be perceived as the way of the future? Possibly, but I think it is part of a continuing trend.
The question is, have things changed for better or worse?
Having just finished a marathon session of en primeur barrel tastings, I think that a nuanced answer is called for. Let’s take the example of Haut Brion. I can honestly say that the wine is, in fact, balanced and classy. It carries its (almost) 15% with distinction. And I encountered plenty of other wines like that during my forays into the wine country. Only a minority of wines I sampled were under 14%. One Pomerol was even 15.5% – nearly as high as unfortified wine can go… On the other hand, I was also pleased to see that Angélus, an estate I have long felt was somewhat heavy-handed with extraction and oak, has backpedalled and deliberately toned things down.
If you had asked me five years ago about a 15% Bordeaux, I’d have been pretty dismissive and turned up my nose. A wine for barbarians! Well, times have changed. Yes, although some 2022s are ponderous, heavy, overly rich, and even have an alcoholic burn on the finish, these are the exceptions. Bordeaux has simply adapted to a bunch of factors and achieved a new sort of balance. I had an in-depth look at this and mostly liked what I saw, or rather tasted.
There is increased talk on the Right Bank of planting more Cabernet, especially Cabernet Franc, to replace Merlot now that the former ripens more fully thanks to climate change. This would also tend to bring down sugar levels.
Simone Signouret’s memoirs were entitled “La nostaligie n’est plus ce qu’elle était”, which I think is a great name. Anyway, for those of us who regret old-style Bordeaux, I would say that our memories can be somewhat selective… A number of wines from yesteryear were thin, herbaceous, and featured not-so-welcome acidity. All was not sweetness and light.
How will today’s great wines age? Your guess is as good as mine, but I am reminded of a tasting of California wines I attended in Bordeaux. The owner of a famous château sipped a wine and exclaimed that it was truly delicious, but wasn’t it unnatural for it to taste so good just four years after the vintage? Surely something was wrong… This left me thinking well, no, nothing’s wrong at all, and that for great wine to taste so good so early on is an advantage rather than a shortcoming. Some of my English friends may disagree, but ageworthiness is not a measure of quality in my book. Balance is. And if a fine balance can be achieved earlier, I say so much the better. Many of the 2022s are – a little – low in acidity so maybe they won’t be ones for the very long haul. But the vintage is a good one and I am not disappointed with it, nor worried about the future of Bordeaux.
It takes a while to produce accurate statistics about a new vintage, and the Bordeaux University report is eagerly awaited by the wine world. Here is this year’s, describing the 2022 growing season.
Institute of Vine and Wine Sciences of Bordeaux University, Oenological Research Unit
When it comes to assessing the 2022 vintage in the Bordeaux vineyards, it is important to distinguish the general climatic context from its impact on the quality of the wines. Extreme weather conditions, both in terms of high temperatures and low precipitation, as well as their consequences, unfortunately highlighted the reality of climate change and gave rise to serious concerns regarding the future of our planet. This report simply aims to shed light on the weather conditions and growing season over the course of the year, and the characteristics of the resulting wines, without hiding or minimising these concerns. However, after a 2021 vintage full of contrasts, we cannot deny ourselves the pleasure of declaring that, even this early in the ageing process, the wines produced in 2022 already seem quite exceptional and remarkable!
Considering the unprecedented weather conditions last year, we shall skip the usual introduction to this vintage report, reviewing the five prerequisites for a great red wine vintage in Bordeaux. These prerequisites were met in 2022 and will be mentioned later on in this report. After a slightly drier winter than usual, several cool nights in March resulted in bud break occurring as expected for the time of year and later than in 2021. Thanks to the delayed growth cycle, frost in early April caused significantly less damage in the vineyards compared to 2021, although yields were impacted in localised areas. April was the only month of the year that recorded near-average temperatures, slowing down vine growth. However, summery conditions set in from May onwards with daytime temperatures already exceeding 30°C. Vine growth accelerated from its previously average pace, and took on the characteristics of an early vintage. Flowering, beginning in mid-May, was quick and even, with few signs of coulure (shot berries) or millerandage (abnormal fruit set). Winegrowers’ nerves were once again put to the test during the second half of the month, due to violent storms. Hail damage, which was quite severe in some cases, fortunately remained localised. June once again saw high temperatures, with the first heatwave of the year, and was the only month in 2022 to record above-average rainfall. Precipitation, mainly during storms in the second half of the month, varied significantly from one region to the next, without significantly increasing the threat of vine diseases. The rainfall strongly impacted how the vines coped with the summer drought, depending on local variations in intensity. The hot weather continued, and even intensified, with a second heatwave in July. Around the same time, water stress set in, slowing grape development. The early character of the vintage was confirmed, with the berries beginning to change colour from the second half of July, while vine growth had already stopped. This chronology of events was highly propitious to the quality of the red wine grapes. The progress of véraison (colour change) depended mostly on the type of soil and water reserves after rainfall in June: while good overall, it was sometimes slow in the best-drained soils. The first signs of scorching were observed in late July and vineyard practices were adapted accordingly, particularly leaf thinning, which turned out to be particularly important. The month of August was once again hot and dry, while overnight temperatures remained reasonably cool. A few showers fell, without any notable impact on vegetative growth or the size of the berries, which remained particularly small. These conditions were conducive to the ripening of the red wine grapes, particularly the accumulation of phenolic compounds. The first red wine grapes were picked in early September, and weather conditions during the harvest made it possible for winegrowers to pick each grape variety at optimum ripeness, without fear of dilution or rot.
Hot, dry vintages are generally not ideal for white wine grapes. While the high summer temperatures actually resulted in low acidity and high sugar levels, the June rainfall nevertheless helped to preserve a certain freshness and above all, unexpected aromatic potential, especially on clay and clay-limestone soils with high water reserves. The white wine grapes were harvested historically early in perfect condition, thus avoiding the high temperatures in late August and early September, and their overall quality is good.
Sweet white wine producers’ nerves were once again put to the test in 2022. While the grapes were already ripe and perfectly healthy from mid-August onwards, drought conditions prevented the development of Botrytis cinerea. The first grapes, concentrated by raisining, were picked during the second half of September, but were considered unsuitable for the premium blends of sweet white wines. Long-awaited rainfall finally arrived at the end of the month, triggering the rapid development of Botryitis cinerea. Unfortunately, the fine weather, which had lasted so long, failed to return. It took the winegrowers a lot of nerve to wait for sufficient concentration, at the risk of losing their entire crop. The desired conditions were reached rather abruptly in mid-October, thanks to the return of warmer weather and a providential easterly wind. Estates that chose to wait patiently were rewarded and hurried to pick grapes with remarkable richness and purity, giving personality, balance, and depth to the 2022 fine sweet white wines.
A fairly dry winter and a frosty start to spring resulted in bud break occurring at an average date
Autumn was dry (-51 mm in October and November) and cool (-2.5 °C in October and November), followed by a mild, wet winter, particularly in December (+0.5°C), with rainfall 54 mm above average. January and February were dry and sunny (Table I). January temperatures oscillated between almost springlike conditions (similar to New Year’s Day) and frequent spells of frost in late January, with overall monthly temperatures remaining close to normal for the time of year. Warmer temperatures in February meant that 2022 was the 4th year running to record milder than average temperatures during this month (1981-2000). Temperatures fell below 0°C on only 6 days.
In March, a series of low-pressure systems at the start of the month gradually gave way to springlike conditions. Overall temperatures were one to two degrees above average, despite mediocre sunshine for the first two weeks (Table I) and several frosts under clear skies after March 20th. Low rainfall during the month led to cumulative precipitation in winter 2021-2022 being slightly below average.
These conditions delayed the onset of bud break. Bud break began in localised areas at the end of March and intensified during the first week of April, but rather unevenly depending on the sector.
Sunshine (hours)
Rainfall (mm)
Average minimum temp. (°C)
Average maximum temp. (°C)
2022
1991-2010 average
2022
1981-2010 average
2022
1981-2010 average
2022
1981-2010 average
January
135
96
40
87
1.9
3.1
10
10.0
February
125
115
49
71
5.1
3.3
14.2
11.7
March
156
170
35
65
7.2
5.4
16.3
15.1
April
176
182
64
78
8.1
7.4
18
17.3
May
284
217
19
80
13.1
11.0
25
21.2
June
247
239
100
62
16.2
14.1
27.5
24.5
July
350
249
3
50
17.4
15.8
31
26.9
August
204
241
26
56
18.8
15.7
31.8
27.1
September
231
203
39
84
14.2
12.9
25.8
24.0
October
124
147
57
93
14.7
10.4
23.8
19.4
Development of phenological ripeness in 2022 compared to the past 11 years (Data from SRAL and ISVV)
April frost struck again
April began with two spells of frost between the 2nd and 5th, then again during the night of the 10th. In 2022, frost struck the vineyards at earlier stages in the vine’s development, with local variations, unlike in 2021, when it occurred later and was more severe. The damage was therefore more difficult to evaluate, and also varied greatly depending on the stage of bud break and the implementation of frost-protection systems.
After a spell of fairly wintry weather, warmer conditions set in on the 10th and lasted throughout the month, with temperatures close to normal. Rainfall, concentrated between April 6th and 10th, was sometimes heavy, yet remained below average, accentuating the winter water deficit (Table I).
These conditions slowed down vine growth until the middle of the month, delaying the emergence of secondary buds in plots affected by frost. In plots unaffected by frost, vine growth was also slow at the start of the month before accelerating from mid-April onwards, thanks to above-average temperatures. At this stage, vine growth was comparable to the ten-year average.
A warm, dry May, conducive to vine growth, and quick, even flowering
Springlike conditions in late April gave way to summery weather in May. The first hot spell of the year was observed between May 8th and 22nd, with daytime highs 4.3°C above average and several days recording temperatures above 30°C . It was the warmest May since 1950. Consequently, thunderstorms broke out between May 15th and 24th, sometimes accompanied by hail. The resulting damage was extremely localised. The water deficit nevertheless remained significant (Table I) and cumulative rainfall was very uneven throughout the vineyards (up to 60 mm in La Brède (source: CA33)). With only 4 days of rainfall in the Bordeaux region in May, there were, on average, 5 to 10 fewer days of rainfall than usual.
These weather conditions were propitious to vine growth, with the phenological stages developing rapidly and weekly growth reaching up to 30 centimetres (source: BSV), resulting in an early vintage.
The first flowers appeared in mid-May, two weeks later than in 2021 (Table II). Flowering was quick and even with mid-flowering observed during the last ten days of May. Favourable weather conditions with no signs of coulure or millerandage meant that the first prerequisite for a great vintage, i.e. quick, even flowering, was fulfilled.
Mid-flowering and mid-véraison dates in 2022 compared to the past 11 years and the 20-year average
Table II
Period
Mid-flowering
Mid-véraison
2000-2020
4 June
6 August
2011
17 May
21 July
2012
11 June
12 August
2013
18 June
22 August
2014
7 June
13 August
2015
5 June
6 August
2016
11 June
7 August
2017
30 May
30 July
2018
3 June
4 August
2019
4 June
9 August
2020
26 May
1 August
2021
10 June
11 August
2022
23 May
28 July
A hot, stormy start to summer after fruit set maintained early vine growth and partially reconstituted water reserves in the soil. A second heatwave without rainfall was conducive to early véraison.
The hot weather in May intensified in June. June 2022, the fourth hottest since 1947, was particularly remarkable for the number of days with temperatures above 30°C, as well as the earliness and intensity of the heatwave.
After a hot spell in the middle of June (16th to 18th ), several storms broke out between the 17th and 26th, accompanied by heavy rainfall for the first time in five months. These intense rainy spells were accompanied by localised hail, in Pessac Léognan on the 18th and in the Médoc on the 20th, causing variable damage.
At this stage,with vegetative growth in full swing, the berries benefited from both the heat and rainfall. Their early phenological development during flowering was thus preserved and bunch closure was observed in the earliest plots before the end of the month.
July was also hot and dry with abundant sunshine (Table I, ). After the early heatwave in June, a second hot spell set in around the middle of the month. Temperatures were very high, sometimes above 35°C, and the lack of rainfall significantly slowed down berry growth. The first signs of notable water stress were observed from mid-July onwards in plots planted on shallow soils, while vines grown on less well-drained soils benefited from the welcome rainfall in June.
The berries stopped growing at this stage, which partially explains their small size at harvest. Véraison began on July 20th , getting off to a slow start before accelerating towards the end of the month (Table II). It was largely dependent on June rainfall and varied significantly from one sector to the next. Overall, véraison was quick and even, although interrupted in plots planted on particularly well-drained or shallow soils, as well as on the youngest vines.
The first signs of scorching appeared around that time. Foliage management, particularly reducing leaf thinning, was key to success in this vintage, by preventing the berries from shrivelling.
Therefore, a stop to vegetative growth before véraison, the third prerequisite for a perfect red wine vintage, occurred earlier than usual, favouring even véraison in the sectors which benefited from June rainfall. However, in certain particularly well-drained and shallow soils, water stress set in too early and severely in localised areas, leading to scorching and interrupted véraison.
A hot, dry end to summer. Ideal weather conditions allowed winegrowers to wait patiently for the optimum time to pick.
In the majority of plots in our sector, véraison was complete by August 15th. Temperatures at this stage were close to the seasonal average. A few rainy spells, which had no major impact on the grapes, triggered ripening in mid-August, without significantly increasing berry size.
The hot, dry conditions continued into late August and throughout September). Winegrowers could therefore wait patiently for the ideal time to pick without worrying about the threat of vine diseases.
Due to the most extreme temperatures and drought conditions recorded in Bordeaux since the late 19th century, the Sauvignon Blanc grape-picking started historically early, on August 9th in the Sauternes region, becoming widespread throughout the white wine vineyards in the following week.
Excessively high temperatures during the growth cycle, accompanied by very early water stress, often leads to fears of a lack of aromas and acidity in dry white wines. However, rather surprisingly given the weather conditions during the 2022 vintage, the Sauvignon Blanc grapes were indeed low in acidity, close to levels in 2015 and 2016, yet maintained their promising aromatic potential, while their sugar content was comparable to 2020. In terroirs with good water reserves (clay and clay-limestone), the grape skins remained crunchy until the harvest, with no signs of over-ripening, with excellent concentration on tasting.
Storms in late June, bringing up to 130 mm rainfall in localised areas, significantly helped to maintain balance in the white wine grapes, conducive to the production of fine dry white wines.
Picking for Sémillon grapes, which were also very early-ripening, began on August 13th. The grapes were sweet, yet not excessively so, with good concentration. Less sensitive to excessive temperatures than Sauvignon Blanc, their aromas were intense, evoking white fruit and apricot notes, and contributing to the delicious, smooth character of the blended wines.
Table III
Harvest dates for dry white wine grapes in the Bordeaux region in 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020 and 2021
Sauvignon Blanc
Sémillon
2013
10 – 22 September
21 – 25 September
2014
6 – 12 September
12 – 20 September
2015
28 August – 6 September
5 – 11 September
2016
2 – 15 September
8 – 18 September
2017
16 August – 7 September
1 – 15 September
2018
23 August – 10 September
5 – 15 September
2019
26 August – 19 September
6 – 23 September
2020
14 August – 5 September
27 August – 10 September
2021
28 August – 18 September
5 – 24 September
2022
9 August – 29 September
13 August – 2 September
Table IV
Composition of Sauvignon Blanc grapes from a plot with limestone soil in the Graves region in 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017.2018, 2019, 2020, and 2021
Initial analyses of the grape juice showed that the sugar content was higher compared to the same stage in 2021. In fact, as of late August, all the plots in our sector showed a Potential Alcohol by Volume above 13% (Table V).
Table V
Variations in sugar content and acidity of red wine grapes during ripening in reference plots
Weight per 100 berries (g)
Sugar (g/L)
TA (g/L H2SO4)
Total anthocyanins (mg/L)
2022
22/8 Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon
12392
208184
2.94.2
17511745
05/9 Merlot12/9Cabernet Sauvignon
12295
240232
2.43.0
19802421
2021 31/8 Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon
175 130
183 175
5.9 8.4
1359 1783
27/9 Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon
176 138
205 205
3.3 4.0
1780 2138
2020
31/8 Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon
154 106
216 201
2.6 3.4
1803 2038
07/9 Merlot 14/9 Cabernet Sauvignon
151 99
229 235
2.6 3.4
1835 2416
201926/8 Merlot
119
199
4.7
1160
Cabernet Sauvignon
99
177
7
16/9 Merlot
127
244
2.7
1780
30/9 Cabernet Sauvignon
105
233
3.3
1901
2018
27/8 Merlot
142
214
3.3
1656
Cabernet Sauvignon
116
193
4.9
1442
10/9 Merlot 24/9 Cabernet Sauvignon
143 126
233 230
2.5 2.8
1749 1826
Two weeks later, in early September, the Merlots reached particularly high sugar levels, among the highest recorded in the last ten years (240 g/L) (Table V).
Already fairly low at the start of sampling, the level of acidity decreased regularly during ripening, reaching some of the lowest levels recorded over the past ten vintages .
At harvest, the average pH of the Merlots was 3.5, compared to 3.4 for the Cabernet Sauvignons. These values were relatively low and unexpected, given the particularly low acidity levels recorded in the grapes at harvest.
In early September, still under ideal conditions (with a total absence of Botrytis cinerea), the level of phenolic ripeness was comparable to or already higher than the highest levels recorded in recent vintages (Table V).
From the final days of August onwards, the Merlot grapes were incredibly fruity. No herbaceous notes were observed during tasting, as later confirmed by particularly low methoxypyrazine (IBMP) levels (< 2 ng/L in late August) in the grape juice.
The first Merlot grapes were thus harvested as early as the first week of September, under extremely favourable conditions. The Merlot harvest was relatively rapid everywhere in Gironde. Picking on the plots in our sector finished before mid-September.
Meanwhile, the Cabernet Sauvignon grapes continued ripening throughout September with no threat of vine diseases thanks to prolonged fine weather.
As for the Merlots, the sugar content at harvest was one of the highest recorded in recent years . The total acidity of the grapes was the lowest observed over the past 12 years, which is unprecedented for a late-ripening grape variety.
The total anthocyanin content regularly increased during ripening, reaching remarkably high levels at harvest. On the plots in our sector, they were comparable to the highest levels ever recorded
Total anthocyanin content (mg/L) of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes in reference plots in 2022, compared with four vintages from the previous decade
Harvesting of the Cabernet Sauvignon grapes began in mid-September and lasted until early October. The excellent condition of the grapes was a source of relief for winegrowers, who could wait patiently for the right time to pick based on organoleptic criteria. As for the Merlots, the IBMP levels were already negligible (around 2 ng/L) as of September 5th and the complexity of the fruity aromas was clearly noticeable from mid-September, when picking began.
The weather conditions in summer 2022 meant that winegrowers could determine the harvest dates according to organoleptic analyses without needing to worry about the condition of the grapes. The Merlot grapes, harvested in perfect condition, presented remarkable analyses at harvest time. Fine weather during September also allowed the Cabernet Sauvignon grapes to finish ripening under optimal conditions.
Undoubtedly, the fourth and fifth prerequisites for a very great vintage were fully met in 2022.
After a late start, Botrytis cinerea developed very quickly
Once again, sweet white wine producers’ nerves were sorely tested in 2022. In late August, when the extraordinarily early dry white wine harvest drew to a close in the Sauternes region, the grapes dedicated to the production of sweet white wines were perfectly ripe and healthy, with excellent yields. However, as the fine weather continued into September, the winegrowers became worried, since the dry, sunny days prevented the development of Botrytis cinerea. In this context, an initial pass was carried out in the vineyards during the second half of September to collect the raisined grapes that would not be affected by noble rot. A spell of wet weather set in on September 24th. While this facilitated the quick, even development of Botrytis cinerea, it failed to provide the concentration needed to produce fine sweet white wines. The fear of a total loss of the harvest was on all winegrowers’ minds and, as in previous vintages, they used various coping strategies. Some estates decided to collect the grapes in early October when they were not yet perfectly botrytised, to ensure sufficient production levels, while others decided to take a gamble and wait for favourable weather conditions.
By a stroke of luck, from mid-October onwards, the return to warmer temperatures and, above all, an intense easterly wind concentrated the grapes quickly and evenly. The harvesting of superb, botrytised grapes became widespread in mid-October, constituting the lion’s share of the 2022 sweet white wine vintage, both in terms of quality and quantity. The grapes were perfectly ripe, low in acidity, and quickly reached extraordinarily high sugar levels, making picking more urgent. A final pass took place in late October in the earliest plots, yielding lower quantities.
As another challenging growing season drew to a close and nearly three months after the first dry white wine grapes were picked, the harvest was complete, with production volumes varying depending on the strategy chosen, yet higher overall compared to previous vintages (with an average yield of 15 hL/ha for the Sauternes appellation). The fermentation of the grape must, sometimes particularly high in sugar yet pure and highly promising, could finally begin.
Good dry white wines, remarkably rich sweet white wines and, on both banks, extraordinary red wines, which are concentrated, yet surprisingly well-balanced
One man’s loss is another man’s gain and the weather conditions were, in theory, significantly less favourable in 2022 than in 2021. The overall lower acidity of the grapes, due to the hot summer temperatures, led to a particularly early harvest. Nevertheless, in this context, the nature of the terroirs played a key role and the finest plots, especially those planted on clay and clay-limestone soils, produced surprisingly good dry white wines. The Sauvignon Blancs are fruity, soft, and clear-cut, with citrus and tropical fruit aromas that are sure to win over those who usually do not like their strong varietal character. The Sémillons, sometimes flabby and bitter on second-rate terroirs, developed intense peach and apricot notes. The best ones are flavoursome and well-balanced, with a long aftertaste.
Given the conditions described above and the diverse strategies adopted, the 2022 sweet white wines were very good overall, yet showed some variation both in style and volumes produced. The first batches, made from raisined grapes or those picked in early October, added complexity and freshness to the blend when added in small proportions, but were not suitable for producing great sweet white wines. In contrast, the estates that chose to wait were able to harvest grape musts of unprecedented depth and richness, producing outstanding wines. They are low in acidity, but well-balanced with intense flavours and should age extremely well, like previous great vintages.
The result of a growing season marked by unusual weather conditions and following a 2021 vintage full of contrasts, 2022 Bordeaux red wines are highly anticipated among trend-setters, buyers and consumers, even before their presentation en primeur. There is talk in Bordeaux of an exceptional vintage, which everyone loves to compare to such and such glory of the past. Let’s leave this difficult task to the experienced tasters who will comment in detail on the wines of 2022. Meanwhile, we will keep our comments factual and save our superlatives for last year’s weather. Record-breaking heat, drought and sunshine over several months meant that, by the time the harvest arrived, it was difficult to evaluate the real quality potential of the vintage. One thing for certain, however, is the considerable difference in yields, which was not due, as is often the case, to damage from frost or mildew, but rather to the drought, which varied in intensity, depending on the type of soil, the age of the vines, the intensity of June rainfall, and viticultural choices. Ranging from low to very low on gravelly soils, the volumes produced on some clay-limestone soils in the Libourne region were perfectly satisfactory. Another fact is that the berries were generally very small, even more so than in 2010, particularly for Cabernet Sauvignon, as a direct consequence of the dry conditions during their formation and development. This characteristic had to be taken into account by winemakers, since excessive extraction was likely to produce unbalanced wines. In addition, when the grapes were put into vat, the total acidity level was sometimes worryingly low. However, as is often the case, it naturally increased during alcoholic fermentation to reach more standard values. Winemakers’ experience of previous hot vintages was, therefore, beneficial, discouraging them from acidifying the must, which would have irrevocably upset the balance of flavours in the red wines.
At the start of ageing and in general, the 2022 fine red Bordeaux wines appear to be particularly successful overall and even exceptional in many cases. Despite the extreme weather conditions, the 2022 vintage actually benefited from rather favourable conditions at key stages in the growth cycle and during ripening. Of course, as is always the case, it is best not to generalise, but to consider each appellation, and even each estate, individually. Some fairly acute, yet fortunately marginal, cases of water stress were observed on extremely well-drained soils and in young vines, resulting in delayed ripening, defoliation, and shrivelled berries.
The Merlots from the finest terroirs, particularly clay-limestone soils, are outstanding. They are irresistibly charming and classy: fruity yet not overripe and smooth yet well-balanced. Echoing the comments made about the 2020 vintage, its surprising success in a year marked by historically hot, dry weather challenged certain theories or statements suggesting that this grape variety was outdated in Bordeaux. On the finest soils, and provided that viticultural practices are adapted accordingly, Merlot is completely capable of producing remarkable wines. As has been the case for several vintages now, Cabernet FrancFranc is also a great success. Its aromatic intensity adds an extra touch to the final blend, while its characteristic texture, demanding perfect ripeness, contributes to the wines’ freshness and balance. The success of Petit Verdot in a dry vintage such as 2022 is particularly down to the nature of the soil. In the absence of excessive water stress, it gives the wines a spicy touch and characteristic smoothness. Finally, Cabernet Sauvignon, which Bordeaux winegrowers have fought so hard in the past to pick at optimum ripeness, continues to benefit from the hotter, drier conditions of vintages over the past decade. Its late-ripening character and the fact that it is often planted in well-drained soils has exposed it to excessive water stress in certain cases. Nevertheless, the finest terroirs produced impressive wines, with a powerful tannic structure, no signs of austerity, and an easygoing character, while remaining highly distinguished.
Despite the extreme weather, the 2022 vintage appears to have produced surprisingly well-balanced, harmonious wines, which are tannic yet fleshy, while preserving the freshness and brilliance typical of fine Bordeaux wines. As always, they will reveal their full potential with age, but at this stage they seem particularly promising and, quite simply, outstanding.
[CO1]Coquille dans le fançais – il faudrait remplacer “En absence de” par “En l’absence de”
The 2022 vintage in Bordeaux
Pr. Laurence GENY, Elodie GUITTARD, Dr. Valérie LAVIGNE and Pr. Axel MARCHAL
Institute of Vine and Wine Sciences of Bordeaux University, Oenological Research Unit
in conjunction with
N. Alvarez, C. Baz, V. Teninge, L. Riquier and A. Rabot
When it comes to assessing the 2022 vintage in the Bordeaux vineyards, it is important to distinguish the general climatic context from its impact on the quality of the wines. Extreme weather conditions, both in terms of high temperatures and low precipitation, as well as their consequences, unfortunately highlighted the reality of climate change and gave rise to serious concerns regarding the future of our planet. This report simply aims to shed light on the weather conditions and growing season over the course of the year, and the characteristics of the resulting wines, without hiding or minimising these concerns. However, after a 2021 vintage full of contrasts, we cannot deny ourselves the pleasure of declaring that, even this early in the ageing process, the wines produced in 2022 already seem quite exceptional and remarkable!
Considering the unprecedented weather conditions last year, we shall skip the usual introduction to this vintage report, reviewing the five prerequisites for a great red wine vintage in Bordeaux. These prerequisites were met in 2022 and will be mentioned later on in this report. After a slightly drier winter than usual, several cool nights in March resulted in bud break occurring as expected for the time of year and later than in 2021. Thanks to the delayed growth cycle, frost in early April caused significantly less damage in the vineyards compared to 2021, although yields were impacted in localised areas. April was the only month of the year that recorded near-average temperatures, slowing down vine growth. However, summery conditions set in from May onwards with daytime temperatures already exceeding 30°C. Vine growth accelerated from its previously average pace, and took on the characteristics of an early vintage. Flowering, beginning in mid-May, was quick and even, with few signs of coulure (shot berries) or millerandage (abnormal fruit set). Winegrowers’ nerves were once again put to the test during the second half of the month, due to violent storms. Hail damage, which was quite severe in some cases, fortunately remained localised. June once again saw high temperatures, with the first heatwave of the year, and was the only month in 2022 to record above-average rainfall. Precipitation, mainly during storms in the second half of the month, varied significantly from one region to the next, without significantly increasing the threat of vine diseases. The rainfall strongly impacted how the vines coped with the summer drought, depending on local variations in intensity. The hot weather continued, and even intensified, with a second heatwave in July. Around the same time, water stress set in, slowing grape development. The early character of the vintage was confirmed, with the berries beginning to change colour from the second half of July, while vine growth had already stopped. This chronology of events was highly propitious to the quality of the red wine grapes. The progress of véraison (colour change) depended mostly on the type of soil and water reserves after rainfall in June: while good overall, it was sometimes slow in the best-drained soils. The first signs of scorching were observed in late July and vineyard practices were adapted accordingly, particularly leaf thinning, which turned out to be particularly important. The month of August was once again hot and dry, while overnight temperatures remained reasonably cool. A few showers fell, without any notable impact on vegetative growth or the size of the berries, which remained particularly small. These conditions were conducive to the ripening of the red wine grapes, particularly the accumulation of phenolic compounds. The first red wine grapes were picked in early September, and weather conditions during the harvest made it possible for winegrowers to pick each grape variety at optimum ripeness, without fear of dilution or rot.
Hot, dry vintages are generally not ideal for white wine grapes. While the high summer temperatures actually resulted in low acidity and high sugar levels, the June rainfall nevertheless helped to preserve a certain freshness and above all, unexpected aromatic potential, especially on clay and clay-limestone soils with high water reserves. The white wine grapes were harvested historically early in perfect condition, thus avoiding the high temperatures in late August and early September, and their overall quality is good.
Sweet white wine producers’ nerves were once again put to the test in 2022. While the grapes were already ripe and perfectly healthy from mid-August onwards, drought conditions prevented the development of Botrytis cinerea. The first grapes, concentrated by raisining, were picked during the second half of September, but were considered unsuitable for the premium blends of sweet white wines. Long-awaited rainfall finally arrived at the end of the month, triggering the rapid development of Botryitis cinerea. Unfortunately, the fine weather, which had lasted so long, failed to return. It took the winegrowers a lot of nerve to wait for sufficient concentration, at the risk of losing their entire crop. The desired conditions were reached rather abruptly in mid-October, thanks to the return of warmer weather and a providential easterly wind. Estates that chose to wait patiently were rewarded and hurried to pick grapes with remarkable richness and purity, giving personality, balance, and depth to the 2022 fine sweet white wines.
A fairly dry winter and a frosty start to spring resulted in bud break occurring at an average date
Autumn was dry (-51 mm in October and November) and cool (-2.5 °C in October and November), followed by a mild, wet winter, particularly in December (+0.5°C), with rainfall 54 mm above average. January and February were dry and sunny (Table I). January temperatures oscillated between almost springlike conditions (similar to New Year’s Day) and frequent spells of frost in late January, with overall monthly temperatures remaining close to normal for the time of year. Warmer temperatures in February meant that 2022 was the 4th year running to record milder than average temperatures during this month (1981-2000). Temperatures fell below 0°C on only 6 days.
In March, a series of low-pressure systems at the start of the month gradually gave way to springlike conditions. Overall temperatures were one to two degrees above average, despite mediocre sunshine for the first two weeks (Table I) and several frosts under clear skies after March 20th. Low rainfall during the month led to cumulative precipitation in winter 2021-2022 being slightly below average.
These conditions delayed the onset of bud break. Bud break began in localised areas at the end of March and intensified during the first week of April, but rather unevenly depending on the sector).
Maximum temperatures (°C) Minimum temperatures (°C)
Average maximum and minimum temperatures in the winter of 2022, compared to 1981-2010
Data from Mérignac (Météo France)
Cumulative winter rainfall (mm) from December 2021 to March 2022, compared to the past 10 years and the 20-year average
Data from Mérignac (Météo France)
Table I
Weather data for 2022, rainfall and temperature (compared to the 1981-2010 average) and hours of sunshine (compared to the 1991-2010 average)
Data from Mérignac (Météo France)
Sunshine (hours)
Rainfall (mm)
Average minimum temp. (°C)
Average maximum temp. (°C)
2022
1991-2010 average
2022
1981-2010 average
2022
1981-2010 average
2022
1981-2010 average
January
135
96
40
87
1.9
3.1
10
10.0
February
125
115
49
71
5.1
3.3
14.2
11.7
March
156
170
35
65
7.2
5.4
16.3
15.1
April
176
182
64
78
8.1
7.4
18
17.3
May
284
217
19
80
13.1
11.0
25
21.2
June
247
239
100
62
16.2
14.1
27.5
24.5
July
350
249
3
50
17.4
15.8
31
26.9
August
204
241
26
56
18.8
15.7
31.8
27.1
September
231
203
39
84
14.2
12.9
25.8
24.0
October
124
147
57
93
14.7
10.4
23.8
19.4
Development of phenological ripeness in 2022 compared to the past 11 years (Data from SRAL and ISVV)
April frost struck again
April began with two spells of frost between the 2nd and 5th, then again during the night of the 10th. In 2022, frost struck the vineyards at earlier stages in the vine’s development, with local variations, unlike in 2021, when it occurred later and was more severe. The damage was therefore more difficult to evaluate, and also varied greatly depending on the stage of bud break and the implementation of frost-protection systems.
After a spell of fairly wintry weather, warmer conditions set in on the 10th and lasted throughout the month, with temperatures close to normal. Rainfall, concentrated between April 6th and 10th, was sometimes heavy, yet remained below average, accentuating the winter water deficit (Table I).
These conditions slowed down vine growth until the middle of the month, delaying the emergence of secondary buds in plots affected by frost. In plots unaffected by frost, vine growth was also slow at the start of the month before accelerating from mid-April onwards, thanks to above-average temperatures. At this stage, vine growth was comparable to the ten-year average.
Daily variations in temperature and precipitation in April 2022
Data from Mérignac (Météo France)
A warm, dry May, conducive to vine growth, and quick, even flowering
Springlike conditions in late April gave way to summery weather in May. The first hot spell of the year was observed between May 8th and 22nd, with daytime highs 4.3°C above average and several days recording temperatures above 30°C ). It was the warmest May since 1950. Consequently, thunderstorms broke out between May 15th and 24th, sometimes accompanied by hail. The resulting damage was extremely localised. The water deficit nevertheless remained significant (Table I) and cumulative rainfall was very uneven throughout the vineyards (up to 60 mm in La Brède (source: CA33)). With only 4 days of rainfall in the Bordeaux region in May, there were, on average, 5 to 10 fewer days of rainfall than usual.
These weather conditions were propitious to vine growth, with the phenological stages developing rapidly and weekly growth reaching up to 30 centimetres (source: BSV), resulting in an early vintage.
The first flowers appeared in mid-May, two weeks later than in 2021 (Table II). Flowering was quick and even with mid-flowering observed during the last ten days of May. Favourable weather conditions with no signs of coulure or millerandage meant that the first prerequisite for a great vintage, i.e. quick, even flowering, was fulfilled.
Table II
Mid-flowering and mid-véraison dates in 2022 compared to the past 11 years and the 20-year average
Period
Mid-flowering
Mid-véraison
2000-2020
4 June
6 August
2011
17 May
21 July
2012
11 June
12 August
2013
18 June
22 August
2014
7 June
13 August
2015
5 June
6 August
2016
11 June
7 August
2017
30 May
30 July
2018
3 June
4 August
2019
4 June
9 August
2020
26 May
1 August
2021
10 June
11 August
2022
23 May
28 July
Flowering
Daily variations in temperature and precipitation in May and June 2022
Data from Mérignac (Météo France)
A hot, stormy start to summer after fruit set maintained early vine growth and partially reconstituted water reserves in the soil. A second heatwave without rainfall was conducive to early véraison.
The hot weather in May intensified in June. June 2022, the fourth hottest since 1947, was particularly remarkable for the number of days with temperatures above 30°C, as well as the earliness and intensity of the heatwave.
After a hot spell in the middle of June (16th to 18th ), several storms broke out between the 17th and 26th, accompanied by heavy rainfall for the first time in five months. These intense rainy spells were accompanied by localised hail, in Pessac Léognan on the 18th and in the Médoc on the 20th, causing variable damage.
At this stage,with vegetative growth in full swing, the berries benefited from both the heat and rainfall. Their early phenological development during flowering was thus preserved and bunch closure was observed in the earliest plots before the end of the month.
July was also hot and dry with abundant sunshine. After the early heatwave in June, a second hot spell set in around the middle of the month. Temperatures were very high, sometimes above 35°C, and the lack of rainfall significantly slowed down berry growth. The first signs of notable water stress were observed from mid-July onwards in plots planted on shallow soils, while vines grown on less well-drained soils benefited from the welcome rainfall in June.
The berries stopped growing at this stage, which partially explains their small size at harvest. Véraison began on July 20th , getting off to a slow start before accelerating towards the end of the month (Table II). It was largely dependent on June rainfall and varied significantly from one sector to the next. Overall, véraison was quick and even, although interrupted in plots planted on particularly well-drained or shallow soils, as well as on the youngest vines.
The first signs of scorching appeared around that time. Foliage management, particularly reducing leaf thinning, was key to success in this vintage, by preventing the berries from shrivelling.
Daily variations in temperature and precipitation in July 2022
Data from Mérignac (Météo France)
Therefore, a stop to vegetative growth before véraison, the third prerequisite for a perfect red wine vintage, occurred earlier than usual, favouring even véraison in the sectors which benefited from June rainfall. However, in certain particularly well-drained and shallow soils, water stress set in too early and severely in localised areas, leading to scorching and interrupted véraison.
A hot, dry end to summer. Ideal weather conditions allowed winegrowers to wait patiently for the optimum time to pick.
In the majority of plots in our sector, véraison was complete by August 15th. Temperatures at this stage were close to the seasonal average). A few rainy spells, which had no major impact on the grapes, triggered ripening in mid-August, without significantly increasing berry size.
The hot, dry conditions continued into late August and throughout September. Winegrowers could therefore wait patiently for the ideal time to pick without worrying about the threat of vine diseases.
AUGUST SEPTEMBER
Daily variations in temperature and precipitation in August and September 2022
Data from Mérignac (Météo France)
Due to the most extreme temperatures and drought conditions recorded in Bordeaux since the late 19th century, the Sauvignon Blanc grape-picking started historically early, on August 9th in the Sauternes region, becoming widespread throughout the white wine vineyards in the following week.
Excessively high temperatures during the growth cycle, accompanied by very early water stress, often leads to fears of a lack of aromas and acidity in dry white wines. However, rather surprisingly given the weather conditions during the 2022 vintage, the Sauvignon Blanc grapes were indeed low in acidity, close to levels in 2015 and 2016, yet maintained their promising aromatic potential, while their sugar content was comparable to 2020. In terroirs with good water reserves (clay and clay-limestone), the grape skins remained crunchy until the harvest, with no signs of over-ripening, with excellent concentration on tasting.
Storms in late June, bringing up to 130 mm rainfall in localised areas, significantly helped to maintain balance in the white wine grapes, conducive to the production of fine dry white wines.
Picking for Sémillon grapes, which were also very early-ripening, began on August 13th. The grapes were sweet, yet not excessively so, with good concentration. Less sensitive to excessive temperatures than Sauvignon Blanc, their aromas were intense, evoking white fruit and apricot notes, and contributing to the delicious, smooth character of the blended wines.
Table III
Harvest dates for dry white wine grapes in the Bordeaux region in 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020 and 2021
Sauvignon Blanc
Sémillon
2013
10 – 22 September
21 – 25 September
2014
6 – 12 September
12 – 20 September
2015
28 August – 6 September
5 – 11 September
2016
2 – 15 September
8 – 18 September
2017
16 August – 7 September
1 – 15 September
2018
23 August – 10 September
5 – 15 September
2019
26 August – 19 September
6 – 23 September
2020
14 August – 5 September
27 August – 10 September
2021
28 August – 18 September
5 – 24 September
2022
9 August – 29 September
13 August – 2 September
Table IV
Composition of Sauvignon Blanc grapes from a plot with limestone soil in the Graves region in 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017.2018, 2019, 2020, and 2021
Initial analyses of the grape juice showed that the sugar content was higher compared to the same stage in 2021. In fact, as of late August, all the plots in our sector showed a Potential Alcohol by Volume above 13% (Table V).
Table V
Variations in sugar content and acidity of red wine grapes during ripening in reference plots
Weight per 100 berries (g)
Sugar (g/L)
TA (g/L H2SO4)
Total anthocyanins (mg/L)
2022
22/8 Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon
12392
208184
2.94.2
17511745
05/9 Merlot12/9Cabernet Sauvignon
12295
240232
2.43.0
19802421
2021 31/8 Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon
175 130
183 175
5.9 8.4
1359 1783
27/9 Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon
176 138
205 205
3.3 4.0
1780 2138
2020
31/8 Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon
154 106
216 201
2.6 3.4
1803 2038
07/9 Merlot 14/9 Cabernet Sauvignon
151 99
229 235
2.6 3.4
1835 2416
201926/8 Merlot
119
199
4.7
1160
Cabernet Sauvignon
99
177
7
16/9 Merlot
127
244
2.7
1780
30/9 Cabernet Sauvignon
105
233
3.3
1901
2018
27/8 Merlot
142
214
3.3
1656
Cabernet Sauvignon
116
193
4.9
1442
10/9 Merlot 24/9 Cabernet Sauvignon
143 126
233 230
2.5 2.8
1749 1826
Two weeks later, in early September, the Merlots reached particularly high sugar levels, among the highest recorded in the last ten years (240 g/L) (Table V).
Already fairly low at the start of sampling, the level of acidity decreased regularly during ripening, reaching some of the lowest levels recorded over the past ten vintages.
At harvest, the average pH of the Merlots was 3.5, compared to 3.4 for the Cabernet Sauvignons. These values were relatively low and unexpected, given the particularly low acidity levels recorded in the grapes at harvest.
In early September, still under ideal conditions (with a total absence of Botrytis cinerea), the level of phenolic ripeness was comparable to or already higher than the highest levels recorded in recent vintages (Table V).
From the final days of August onwards, the Merlot grapes were incredibly fruity. No herbaceous notes were observed during tasting, as later confirmed by particularly low methoxypyrazine (IBMP) levels (< 2 ng/L in late August) in the grape juice.
The first Merlot grapes were thus harvested as early as the first week of September, under extremely favourable conditions. The Merlot harvest was relatively rapid everywhere in Gironde. Picking on the plots in our sector finished before mid-September.
Meanwhile, the Cabernet Sauvignon grapes continued ripening throughout September with no threat of vine diseases thanks to prolonged fine weather.
As for the Merlots, the sugar content at harvest was one of the highest recorded in recent years. The total acidity of the grapes was the lowest observed over the past 12 years, which is unprecedented for a late-ripening grape variety.
The total anthocyanin content regularly increased during ripening, reaching remarkably high levels at harvest. On the plots in our sector, they were comparable to the highest levels ever recorded.
Harvesting of the Cabernet Sauvignon grapes began in mid-September and lasted until early October. The excellent condition of the grapes was a source of relief for winegrowers, who could wait patiently for the right time to pick based on organoleptic criteria. As for the Merlots, the IBMP levels were already negligible (around 2 ng/L) as of September 5th and the complexity of the fruity aromas was clearly noticeable from mid-September, when picking began.
The weather conditions in summer 2022 meant that winegrowers could determine the harvest dates according to organoleptic analyses without needing to worry about the condition of the grapes. The Merlot grapes, harvested in perfect condition, presented remarkable analyses at harvest time. Fine weather during September also allowed the Cabernet Sauvignon grapes to finish ripening under optimal conditions.
Undoubtedly, the fourth and fifth prerequisites for a very great vintage were fully met in 2022.
After a late start, Botrytis cinerea developed very quickly
Once again, sweet white wine producers’ nerves were sorely tested in 2022. In late August, when the extraordinarily early dry white wine harvest drew to a close in the Sauternes region, the grapes dedicated to the production of sweet white wines were perfectly ripe and healthy, with excellent yields. However, as the fine weather continued into September, the winegrowers became worried, since the dry, sunny days prevented the development of Botrytis cinerea. In this context, an initial pass was carried out in the vineyards during the second half of September to collect the raisined grapes that would not be affected by noble rot. A spell of wet weather set in on September 24th. While this facilitated the quick, even development of Botrytis cinerea, it failed to provide the concentration needed to produce fine sweet white wines. The fear of a total loss of the harvest was on all winegrowers’ minds and, as in previous vintages, they used various coping strategies. Some estates decided to collect the grapes in early October when they were not yet perfectly botrytised, to ensure sufficient production levels, while others decided to take a gamble and wait for favourable weather conditions.
By a stroke of luck, from mid-October onwards, the return to warmer temperatures and, above all, an intense easterly wind concentrated the grapes quickly and evenly. The harvesting of superb, botrytised grapes became widespread in mid-October, constituting the lion’s share of the 2022 sweet white wine vintage, both in terms of quality and quantity. The grapes were perfectly ripe, low in acidity, and quickly reached extraordinarily high sugar levels, making picking more urgent. A final pass took place in late October in the earliest plots, yielding lower quantities.
As another challenging growing season drew to a close and nearly three months after the first dry white wine grapes were picked, the harvest was complete, with production volumes varying depending on the strategy chosen, yet higher overall compared to previous vintages (with an average yield of 15 hL/ha for the Sauternes appellation). The fermentation of the grape must, sometimes particularly high in sugar yet pure and highly promising, could finally begin.
Good dry white wines, remarkably rich sweet white wines and, on both banks, extraordinary red wines, which are concentrated, yet surprisingly well-balanced
One man’s loss is another man’s gain and the weather conditions were, in theory, significantly less favourable in 2022 than in 2021. The overall lower acidity of the grapes, due to the hot summer temperatures, led to a particularly early harvest. Nevertheless, in this context, the nature of the terroirs played a key role and the finest plots, especially those planted on clay and clay-limestone soils, produced surprisingly good dry white wines. The Sauvignon Blancs are fruity, soft, and clear-cut, with citrus and tropical fruit aromas that are sure to win over those who usually do not like their strong varietal character. The Sémillons, sometimes flabby and bitter on second-rate terroirs, developed intense peach and apricot notes. The best ones are flavoursome and well-balanced, with a long aftertaste.
Given the conditions described above and the diverse strategies adopted, the 2022 sweet white wines were very good overall, yet showed some variation both in style and volumes produced. The first batches, made from raisined grapes or those picked in early October, added complexity and freshness to the blend when added in small proportions, but were not suitable for producing great sweet white wines. In contrast, the estates that chose to wait were able to harvest grape musts of unprecedented depth and richness, producing outstanding wines. They are low in acidity, but well-balanced with intense flavours and should age extremely well, like previous great vintages.
The result of a growing season marked by unusual weather conditions and following a 2021 vintage full of contrasts, 2022 Bordeaux red wines are highly anticipated among trend-setters, buyers and consumers, even before their presentation en primeur. There is talk in Bordeaux of an exceptional vintage, which everyone loves to compare to such and such glory of the past. Let’s leave this difficult task to the experienced tasters who will comment in detail on the wines of 2022. Meanwhile, we will keep our comments factual and save our superlatives for last year’s weather. Record-breaking heat, drought and sunshine over several months meant that, by the time the harvest arrived, it was difficult to evaluate the real quality potential of the vintage. One thing for certain, however, is the considerable difference in yields, which was not due, as is often the case, to damage from frost or mildew, but rather to the drought, which varied in intensity, depending on the type of soil, the age of the vines, the intensity of June rainfall, and viticultural choices. Ranging from low to very low on gravelly soils, the volumes produced on some clay-limestone soils in the Libourne region were perfectly satisfactory. Another fact is that the berries were generally very small, even more so than in 2010, particularly for Cabernet Sauvignon, as a direct consequence of the dry conditions during their formation and development. This characteristic had to be taken into account by winemakers, since excessive extraction was likely to produce unbalanced wines. In addition, when the grapes were put into vat, the total acidity level was sometimes worryingly low. However, as is often the case, it naturally increased during alcoholic fermentation to reach more standard values. Winemakers’ experience of previous hot vintages was, therefore, beneficial, discouraging them from acidifying the must, which would have irrevocably upset the balance of flavours in the red wines.
At the start of ageing and in general, the 2022 fine red Bordeaux wines appear to be particularly successful overall and even exceptional in many cases. Despite the extreme weather conditions, the 2022 vintage actually benefited from rather favourable conditions at key stages in the growth cycle and during ripening. Of course, as is always the case, it is best not to generalise, but to consider each appellation, and even each estate, individually. Some fairly acute, yet fortunately marginal, cases of water stress were observed on extremely well-drained soils and in young vines, resulting in delayed ripening, defoliation, and shrivelled berries.
The Merlots from the finest terroirs, particularly clay-limestone soils, are outstanding. They are irresistibly charming and classy: fruity yet not overripe and smooth yet well-balanced. Echoing the comments made about the 2020 vintage, its surprising success in a year marked by historically hot, dry weather challenged certain theories or statements suggesting that this grape variety was outdated in Bordeaux. On the finest soils, and provided that viticultural practices are adapted accordingly, Merlot is completely capable of producing remarkable wines. As has been the case for several vintages now, Cabernet Franc is also a great success. Its aromatic intensity adds an extra touch to the final blend, while its characteristic texture, demanding perfect ripeness, contributes to the wines’ freshness and balance. The success of Petit Verdot in a dry vintage such as 2022 is particularly down to the nature of the soil. In the absence[CO1] of excessive water stress, it gives the wines a spicy touch and characteristic smoothness. Finally, Cabernet Sauvignon, which Bordeaux winegrowers have fought so hard in the past to pick at optimum ripeness, continues to benefit from the hotter, drier conditions of vintages over the past decade. Its late-ripening character and the fact that it is often planted in well-drained soils has exposed it to excessive water stress in certain cases. Nevertheless, the finest terroirs produced impressive wines, with a powerful tannic structure, no signs of austerity, and an easygoing character, while remaining highly distinguished.
Despite the extreme weather, the 2022 vintage appears to have produced surprisingly well-balanced, harmonious wines, which are tannic yet fleshy, while preserving the freshness and brilliance typical of fine Bordeaux wines. As always, they will reveal their full potential with age, but at this stage they seem particularly promising and, quite simply, outstanding.
Although Pierre Bernault came from a family of winegrowers in Algeria, he followed a very different career path, becoming an engineer in information technology holding high-powered positions at Microsoft and the French Alternative Energies and Atomic Energy Commission. There nevertheless came a time when, itching for a change, he set his sights on making wine in Bordeaux.
He bought Château Beauséjour in Montagne Saint Emilion in 2004, and set about making the best possible wine with the help of well-known consultant Stépahnd Derenoncourt.
Pierre Bernault
Château Beauséjour has 12 hectares of vines, including a plot of Merlot which proved to have been planted in 1901. In fact, Alain Vauthier selected vines from here to propagate when it became necessary to replant at Château Ausone.
Wine from these century-old vines was first vinified and bottled separately in the 2005 vintage. I thought it was time to open the only bottle I had in the cellar.
The color was deep and attractive, but showed more browning on the rim than I had expected. The nose was lovely: ripe plum along with some leather and tertiary notes. Sweet and seductive. The wine was full-bodied and serious on the palate, and I could easily have taken it for a top range Saint-Emilion. At 18 years of age, this Cuvée 1901 was pretty much in its prime and was proof, if need be, that it can be extremely worthwhile to investigate Bordeaux off the beaten track.
When I first came to Bordeaux (quite some time ago…) there were said to be two hot appellations, ones on the up-and-up that would surely be making more sought-after, more expensive wines in the future. These were Fronsac and Castillon. While neither has really taken off like a rocket, I think that Castillon has probably fared better than Fronsac. The relative production figures may have something to do with this, since Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux (the full name since 2009) has about 1,800 hectares of vines while Fronsac has 800 and Canon-Fronsac just 250. But that is not the only reason. Fronsac wines have a tendency towards a certain hardness in their youth whereas Castillon wines are generally softer and more approachable young.
In fact, geologically speaking, Castillon is very much a continuation of Saint-Emilion.
The Domaine de l’A is located in the commune of Sainte Colombe on the border with Saint Emilion, with crus classes Faugères and Valandraud as immediate neighbors. The estate is the creation of Christine and Stéphane Derenoncourt, who started off with just two hectares in 1999 purchased thanks to a crowdfunding project. The estate now comprises 12 hectares.
Christine and Stéphane Derenoncourt
Stéphane Derenoncourt is an atypical figure on the Bordeaux wine scene. He comes from a working class family in Dunkirk and arrived in Bordeaux more or less by accident. Starting out as a vineyard worker, he graduated to winemaking consultant for such estates a Pavie Macquin, Canon la Gaffelière, and La Mondotte before starting his own consultancy firm in 1999. He has no formal training in enology, but an expertise acquired from years of experience. He is probably the most famous consultant in Bordeaux after Michel Rolland and now works with 70 Bordeaux châteaux, 20 properties elsewhere in France, and 20 others internationally.
However, Stéphane is definitely happy to have his own vineyard. It helps keep his feet on the ground and empathize with other vineyard owners.
Where does Domaine de l’A get its unusual name from? The story goes that when Christine and Stéphane Derenoncourt sat down to try to find one, several suggestions batted around started with the letter “A”, not least of which was “amour”. “A” is also the first letter of the alphabet, which went along with the new beginning…
The soil at Domaine de l’A consists of clay overlaying friable limestone and decomposed limestone. Grape varieties consist of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc. Vine density is 6,500 per hectare. The average age of the vines is 40 years.
I have had the wine several times at tastings, and quite liked it, but recently had the opportunity to linger over an older version at Sunday lunch. It was a pleasurable experience. The color was vigorous, the nose plummy and ripe, and the flavor rich and satisfying on the palate. If tasted blind, I’d have opted for a mid-range Pomerol not only because of the Merlot profile, but also because of the loose-grained velvety tannin. That’s saying something when you consider the price of Castillon wines compared to those of Pomerol. Domaine de l’A sells for approximately 40 euros a bottle – expensive for a Castillon, but a very good deal for an excellent Right Bank wine. Everyone likes a success story, and the Derenoncourts at Domaine de l’A unquestionably fits the description.
The original Figeac estate consisted of over 200 hectares. Château La Tour Figeac, created as a separate entity in 1879, features an attractive small château whose turret, however, does not account for the name. This is due instead to an ancient tower that no longer exists. The estate was acquired by the Rettenmair family in 1973. Along with the von Neipperg chateaux (La Mondotte, Canon La Gaffelière, Clos de l’Oratoire, etc.), this is the only German-owned château of note in Bordeaux, which is surprising in light of Germany’s economic might.
When I first started reading about the wines of Bordeaux, the western part of the appellation, where La Tour Figeac is located, was referred to as Les Graves de Saint Emilion. However, this is somewhat of a misnomer in that the gravelly section is really rather small compared to, let’s say, the limestone plateau, and should perhaps not be thought of as constituting an entire sector. La Tour Figeac’s soil is half gravel, the rest consisting of gravel and sand with a type of clay subsoil shared with Pomerol. In fact, the vineyard is adjacent such Pomerol estates as Beauregard and La Clémence. Furthermore, Corinne Lantheaume, who took me around, explained that Pomerol-like characteristics often come through in La Tour Figeac even when quite young. She pointed out that at tastings the wines clearly have a different flavor profile to those from the plateau, or elsewhere in Saint-Emilion.
Although he spends a majority of his time in Germany, Otto Max Rettenmair perpetuates his family’s passion for the estate. He has been general manager of La Tour Figeac since 1994, assisted by Pierre Blois, the on-site manager. Stéphane Derenoncourt’s well-known firm has followed winemaking since 1997, and associate consultant Julien Lavenu (also present at Clos Fourtet and Larcis Ducasse, among other châteaux) has been in charge of winemaking since 2001.
La Tour Figeac has 14,6 hectares of vines, roughly 65% Merlot and 35% Cabernet Franc, although a change is being considered for the future (50/50). Vine density is 6,500 up to 8.000 per hectare depending on the plot. The vineyard has been managed according to biodynamic principles since 1997 and wine has been officially certified as organic starting with the 2021 vintage, although this is not trumpeted on the label. Average annual production amounts to approximately 60,000 bottles, including a second wine called L’Esquisse (a word meaning “sketch”).
The cellar features wooden fermentation vats from Taransaud, 400 litre barrels, and amphorae, as well as more usual vessels. About fifty percent of the crop is aged in new oak.
La Tour Figeac has been a classified growth of Saint-Emilion from the very first (1955), a survivor of all the storms surrounding this controversial hierarchy.
Corinne Lantheaume was very matter-of-fact about this, but confirmed that it was worth the considerable effort on several fronts (prioritizing quality, submitting nightmarishly complicated application documents, etc.) to maintain their rank.
Madame Lantheaume was kind enough to arrange a vertical tasting for me. She suggested going from oldest to youngest, and I went with the flow.
Alex tasting at La Tour Figeac
2016 La Tour Figeac (70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc)
Bright warm cherry red color. Soft cherry-vanilla nose showing good oak and some candied red fruit. Liquorice component on the palate along with great black fruit nuances. Penetrating, but with a gentle grip and not overly alcoholic. Hints of violet on the long delicate aftertaste with fine-textured tannin. Delightful.
2018 La Tour Figeac (70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc)
Deep satisfying color. Nose of perfumed talc, wild berries, oak, and ripe Merlot. Very broad-based and big on the palate with velvety tannin. Layered flavors and quite fresh. Strongly marked by barrel ageing at this stage, but with excellent potential.
2019 La Tour Figeac (65% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Franc)
Good deep color showing some purple. Fresh and subtle berry, brambly nose. Seemingly sweet bouquet. Big and round on the palate, maybe a touch hollow in the middle, but compensated by tart freshness on the aftertaste. Plush, with coffee, spice, and kirsch aromatics. Tannin and alcohol come through on the finish.
2020 La Tour Figeac (70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc)
This was tied with the 2016 for best wine of the tasting for me. To be sure of this, I went back and retasted it at the end. Regal color and a nose of graphite and deep pure black fruit. Already very promising bouquet at this stage. Rich, with sensual cherry and blackcurrant flavors on the palate, while showing good acidity on the finish. Great balance, class, and length.
However, this is not the end of the story. My reason for visiting La Tour Figeac in the first place, other than the fact that I had never been there before, was a bottle of the 2000 vintage I had in the cellar and was itching to open. I thought that tying in an appraisal of young wines with an aged version from a great vintage would make for a worthwhile report.
I am pleased to say that 2000 La Tour Figeac left a very favorable impression. I served it at a dinner at my house and so did not take detailed notes, but I have a fine memory of a wine with a very dark color (younger than its years), a mature nose of black fruit, and a long rich aftertaste belying its age.
All in all, I was delighted to become better acquainted with this excellent Saint Emilion.
This article in the Guardian speaks of a very serious problem in the Bordeaux wine country. However, many of you reading this tend to think of Bordeaux as only the tip of the iceberg, i.e. the 5% of Bordeaux that consists of great growths and assimilated wines, rather than Bordeaux as a whole. Therefore, the crisis seems of little importance when seen from afar. It is nevertheless crippling to the local economy. The overproduction largely concerns the Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur appellations, accounting for 55% of total output.
The article is unsurprisingly a little sensationalist, starting with the title. Excess wine will not be “poured down the drain”. It will be distilled to make industrial alcohol. The cursory analysis of decreased wine consumption is accurate as far as it goes, but the article does not address the specific challenge in Bordeaux as compared to other French regions. There are many reasons for the decline…
I believe that the trend for alcohol-free drinks is less consequential than is made out. Because, although young people are avoiding wine, they are nevertheless drinking other alcoholic beverages.
If you drive through the Entre-Deux-Mers region (where most of AOC Bordeaux comes from), you see a distressing number of vineyards that have been simply abandoned. It is no longer economically viable to make wine for many growers. The real drama is that many winegrowers’ children do not wish to embark on a backbreaking career with all sorts of risks and a small income at the best of times. The future looks bleak. And, sadly, quality is not the most important parameter. Bordeaux is seen as a commodity and few producers are able to price their wine, however good it is (and with the accompanying increase in cost) outside of a narrowly defined bracket.
As always in France, the government and the EU (i.e. the taxpayer) are being called to the rescue, with thinly-veiled threats if they do not help financially…
Well, here is a wine above my pay grade… and one for a special occasion. That occasion occurred when my friend Chris Howell, manager of Cain Vineyard and Winery in Saint Helena, came to dinner. I first met Chris when he was an intern at Mouton Rothschild years ago. His Napa Valley wine, Cain Five, is considered one of the region’s best.
First growth Château Latour in Pauillac
Chris had enjoyed lunch in the Médoc with the former cellarmaster of Château Léoville Las Cases and by pure coincidence tasted two other 89s during the meal: Las Cases and Palmer. Therefore, following up with a Latour from the same vintage at dinner was very serendipitous.
On to the wines…
With an endive and salmon salad, we had a 2016 Clos des Lambrays Puligny Montrachet premier cru Les Folatières. This was more middle-of-the-road than memorable. It was clean and mercifully not over-oaked, but seemed to lack both depth and the stamp of its terroir. It will gain little by further ageing.
Next up, with grilled duck breast and duchess potatoes, was 2014 Ch. Haut Marbuzet, a well-known cru bourgeois from Saint Estèphe. This was a very nice surprise. The wine was dark-colored and had a Pauillac-type nose with plenty of graphite. It was vigorous and fruity, and did not suffer from 100% ageing in new oak. I was very pleased with this.
Finally, it was time for the 1989 Château Latour. First of all, the color was far deeper and vibrant than one would expect after 33 years, with little browning on the rim. The nose was quite classic, with plenty of blackcurrant and soft tertiary qualities. However, this was not the wine’s most notable aspect. What made it special was its tremendous flavor and tannic texture. This was the quintessence of Cabernet in a very manly mode, but exhibiting tremendous class and restraint. The aftertaste was extremely long with a touch of menthol freshness. There was a mineral and ferrous component to the flavor and, above all, velvety tannin that showed the wine’s pedigree. I tend to prefer wines younger than many of my friends, but I have to admit that this Latour was still very much in the running and will be a good bottle to drink several decades from now… Chris said that of the three 89s he’d had that day, the Latour showed the most finesse.
I posted about this wine on the Bordeaux Wine Enthusiasts forum, and someone replied “There is no other specific Bordeaux wine and vintage for which I have seen more differing, contrasting scores, reviews and tasting notes than 1989 Latour”. In effect, the thread on that forum included both high praise and some very dismissive appraisals, which had me puzzled. I looked at the 220 Cellartracker notes for this wine. Most are full of praise, but a minority are also very critical. The discrepancy may be due to bottle variation, provenance, people being overly impressed by the label, unfamiliarity with aged first growth wines, etc. Go figure
Wine lovers as old as me have always had a great deal of respect and love for Château Figeac, even if we were led to believe that it was Saint Emilion’s version of a “super-second”, stuck in a sort of limbo between the premiers grand crus B and the A group at the tip of the pyramid. It seemed a pity that Figeac was refused promotion with each successive classification when increasing numbers of wine lovers and trade professionals acknowledged its impressive progress. As time went on, Figeac has gone from strength to strength, and was finally been promoted to A status in the 2022 classification. This leaves only two châteaux, Pavie and Figeac, in the A category since Ausone and Cheval Blanc have withdrawn altogether – not without controversy.
Discussing the Saint Emilion classification in Bordeaux is as lively a pastime as it once was to weigh the influence of Robert Parker on the market and the way wines are made. As contentious as the classification is, it must be admitted that it allows up-and-coming estates to receive the recognition they deserve.
Figeac’s upgrade made me want to taste an aged bottle to see if it was up to snuff. Does Figeac really deserve the top spot? So I brought out a bottle of 2000, making sure to give it proper care and attention: standing it up weeks beforehand, opening it three hours in advance of the meal and decanting it one hour prior to serving. I had friends over to dinner, and do not take notes at table, but I can confirm that this was a beauty of a wine, in its drinking window, with a lovely bouquet redolent of black fruit and violet, as well as a suave, velvety flavor profile, along with a soft, very long aftertaste. I was delighted by the wine’s sheer elegance and would love to pit it against 2000 Cheval Blanc down the line. The estate’s promotion, to my mind, seems fully justified. 2000 was a much heralded vintage but it has had to compete with three other years for best of the decade: 2005, 2009, and 2010. I’m not qualified to give a learned opinion about this, but can confirm that, at age 22, many 2000s are drinking well now.
Spiffy new cellars at Château Figeac
I think that comparisons between Cheval Blanc and Figeac will become increasingly frequent. Of course, the former was once part of the large Figeac estate and they border on one another. Both châteaux share somewhat similar soils, with the significant presence of gravel, in what used to be rather simplistically called “Les Graves Saint Emilion” (as opposed to the Plateau and the Côtes). Figeac has roughly one third of each grape variety – Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. Cheval Blanc, on the other hand, has approximately 52% Cabernet Franc, 43% Merlot, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Figeac has 54 hectares of vines and Cheval Blanc 39, but the latter has recently undergone expansion. Figeac has been owned by the same family since 1892, whereas Cheval Blanc is jointly owned by Bernard Arnauld of LVMH and the family of the late Belgian banker Albert Frère.
I have one bottle of 2000 Figeac left. I am in no hurry to drink it and, who knows, maybe I may be able to compare it with Cheval Blanc from the same year one day…
